MkII Government Target Model

[phique2000]

Just picked this pistol up & have 2 questions.
1-Does it require special magazines, or just standard MKII mags?
2-I would like to mount a red dot on it. Would I be hurting it's value(don't know how collectable it is)if I had it drilled & tapped for a scope mount?
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Pps1980]

Nice weapon. No it takes MkII Mags as I recall. As for value, that's an interesting question. If it's one of the US Government stamped versions than its worth a bit as I recall and I would not modify it. However, if its the commercial version than I'd probably put the red dot on it and shoot it.

 

[phique2000]

It is stamped "Government Target Model"

 

[Pps1980]

It is stamped "Government Target Model"

It would have a Property of US Government stamp if it was a non-commercial model. Yours sounds like the (identical) commercial version.

 

[hittman]

If you ever decide to sell it many potential buyers are likely to turn their nose up at an aftermarket D&T job ..... regardless how good a job it was.

 

[RoninPA]

This might help you out:

https://www.opticsplanet.com/sun-optics-ruger-mk-handgun-mount-non-drilled.html?_iv_code=86-MT-SJJSNP-SM4878

 

[phique2000]

RoninPA said: "This might help you out:
https://www.opticsplanet.com/sun-optics ... SNP-SM4878"

Ron,
Looks like a viable solution to adding a red dot without modifying the pistol.
Going to search for reviews before I buy.
Thanks for the lead.

 

[hboswell]

I was going to have mine d&t'd at a local gunsmith but they charge $40 per hole so I ended up sending my two Gov. Target barrels along with a 5.5 bull to Ruger and had them do it. $65 each and $30 to ship them in one box, I only shipped the barrels, no frames. https://ruger.com/service/partsService.html
Had them back in about 10 days and they did a great job and even mounted the new version scope mounts on them. I swapped those out for Tandemcross mounts which I prefer. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019657990
As to the Sun-optics mount, it is a copy of the discontinued B-Square mount. I have two of those, one on a 5.5 bull and the other on my 5.25 heavy taper. You need to be careful mounting them as they fit very tight and can scratch the finish on the gun but if you remove all the mounting bolts and clean everything first, they slide right on and bolt up very solidly. You can also use the factory sights with the mount in place as there is a channel below the rail allowing for that. There is also a B-Square mount which is single point and is also very solid but doesn't allow for removal of the optic once mounted, however, the factory sights remain usable. Both are on Ebay now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/B-Square-Ruger-Slide-Aimpoint-Mount-Mark-I-Mark-II/133525571557
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-B-Square-Scope-Mount-Ruger-Mark-1-22lr-semi-auto-pistol/274512557820
I would recommend d&t by Ruger as that keeps the optic lower on the barrel and shouldn't have any affect on the value, in fact, is might increase it since it's done by the factory.

 

[AzShooter1]

If you are going to put a red dot on it try EGW.COM for one of their dove tail mounts for the Ruger. I use them on my 22/45. There is no drilling, all you have to do is remove the rear sight. When you no longer want the dot just put your original sight back on.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Ruger has been taking in Ruger Mark II pistols to receive drilling and tapping for an optics base for quite some time now. As long as the "hole pattern" follows what Ruger uses for their optics base, who's to say where the drilling & tapping was done? Of, course the job should be done correctly, and to the dimensions on the print Ruger provided many years ago:

Truth be known, Ruger does not do the D&T in house, they farm that work out to local 'smiths.
When the job is done correctly, in many instances it will attract a buyer who prefers that process be included. If it is indeed a Government stamped pistol, there will be a U.S. stamped on the receiver bridge, if so, I wouldn't recommend D&T.

 

[Uncle Howie]

If you're looking at a "reflex" type red dot (think Burris FastFire, etc.) a dovetail mount is definitely the way to go. Very "clean," and it's easily/completely reversible.

I used this mount on my KMK4BL, with a Burris FastFire.
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/mounts-and-bases/fastfire-mounts

You're sort of "committed" with this type of base, it's not something you're likely to be switching back and forth to iron sights. Still, very "clean," and it sits very low on the MK's receiver.

 

[phique2000]

A lot of good advice. Thanks.
I'll be shooting it in my first Steel Challenge match on Sat. 11/7. Going to go with the iron sights for now & see how it goes.
I'll post how it went. I'll also post if I decide to mount a red dot. Already have a Vortex Venom. Will have to decide between the different mounting options.
Stay tuned.

 

[JStacy]

how did you do in the steel challenge ?

 

[edlmann]

Truth be known, Ruger does not do the D&T in house, they farm that work out to local 'smiths.
When the job is done correctly, in many instances it will attract a buyer who prefers that process be included.

I suspect that a gunsmith subcontracting with Ruger might have made a jig to ensure consistent results.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

If you're looking at a "reflex" type red dot (think Burris FastFire, etc.) a dovetail mount is definitely the way to go. Very "clean," and it's easily/completely reversible.

I used this mount on my KMK4BL, with a Burris FastFire.
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/mounts-and-bases/fastfire-mounts

You're sort of "committed" with this type of base, it's not something you're likely to be switching back and forth to iron sights. Still, very "clean," and it sits very low on the MK's receiver.

And that may be a problem for some if the Fast Fire III is selected. Need to also be careful that the base has clearance for the top of the bolt stop pin. Some will grind the top of that pin flush with the top of the receiver.
This pistol was done here for a rail to be used with the "Ultra-Dot", so in this instance, the sight can be removed for use involving the iron sights. Then, when replaced, the zero has been held in most cases:

 

[tenx]

The b-square clamp on no drill/tap mount will mark the back of adjustable sights, the rear clamping screw threads will leave screw marks on the the rear sight.I mounted mine with a small piece of rubber vaccum tubing over the threads. I shot mine for 3-4 years in 2700 bullseye and it takes a while but it will leave small indentations on the back side of the rear sight.

 

[GypsmJim]

Lots of clamp-on scope mounts for Ruger Marks. They all slip and scratch the mounting location.

Weig-a-tinny makes a perfect mount. No drill, mounts on real sight hole and stays in place.

Whatever you do don't rape the classic Ruger by drilling holes in it.

 

[goboom]

Burris Fastfire is an excellent red dot which can be securely installed in place of the original rear sight.
No drilling, no tapping, and installs in minutes.
Very compact, affordable, and extremely reliable.

 

[1gunsnotenough]

Unless you have a NIB, or very low serial number or U.S. marked model just go ahead and D&T it. Gives you lot more choices of optic to install. Here's my KMK678G. Has thousand of rounds through it. I have a buddy who just happens to have his own machine and gun shop. This started off as a stock pistol. Last year had it D&T, threaded, front sight moved back and VQ frame added. Next up I am going to see if I can get a low mount Bomar on it and a narrow post front sight like I have on my 1911. It is my gun doesn't matter what others think. So do as you please on your pistol to make it better for you.

Just in case you want to see a US marked MK678US here are my two.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I wasn't aware that Bomar offered an adjustable rear sight for the Ruger Mark pistols. I emulated the factory dovetail cut on this 22/45 10149 for a customer that wanted to use a factory rear adjustable sight:

The dovetail is very shallow in the rear top of the receiver, and needs to be, due to the upper tube wall thickness only being around 0.120-inch.