Mk III bolt won't lock back after last shot

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bullockdgmanor

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
33
Location
Georgia
My Mark III 678 Target -- about 5 months old, with about 2,500 rounds through it -- did something odd today that it hasn't done before. I was shooting at the range, and after firing several magazines, it stopped locking its bolt back after the last round. Everything else was functioning normally: it was feeding and extracting just fine (no FTEs or FTFs today), it was firing every round, everything seemed o.k.

It was consistent, too, Once it stopped locking back, it stayed that way; i.e., after every magazine it fails to lock back. I tried two brands of ammo, tried both my magazines - no change.

Pulling the bolt back by hand makes it lock normally.

I usually do a field strip and cleaning every 300 rounds or so.

Anybody have an idea what's going on?

Thanks!

Dan
 

rooger

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
144
Location
Auburn, CA
I had the same problem and I noticed the bolt stop (item 31 on the MK III schematic) was wearing at the edge where it holds the bolt back. I installed a new bolt stop and cleaned the gun and I haven't had the bolt fail to lock back after the last round since...several thousand rounds.
PLEASE NOTE: I believe I may have caused the original bolt stop to wear prematurely because I was releasing the bolt incorrectly after putting in each new magazine. I should have read the manual which says to release the bolt but pulling it rearward and letting it go. Here is what the manual says:
"7. Don’t touch the trigger. Pull the bolt to the rear as far as it will go. (See Figure 4, above.) Release the bolt so that it will fly forward. (On 22/45 models, the bolt stop must also be depressed to permit the bolt to fly forward.) This will place a cartridge into the firing chamber. If the pistol is not to be fired immediately, the safety button should remain “on” — with the “S” showing.(See Figure 2, p. 12.)
 
A

Anonymous

(On 22/45 models, the bolt stop must also be depressed to permit the bolt to fly forward.)

For the most part, this is true... Thus providing that the clip is actually locked in place! Meaning the clip release button is sticking out completely after the clip is inserted. "a positive click after shoving the clip in".

From my experience... you can insert the clip all the way in .. "flush with the grip... Not hearing or feeling the clip release button pop out.. and then pull the bolt back and release and the bolt will fly back loading the first round! Hence, works like the basic MKIII. Of course the clip is not actually locked in and could fall out.. Not a good thing...

Therefore, ya gotta make sure the clip is fully locked into the 22/45 before bolt operates as discribed in the manual. Pushing the magazine in and assuming it's locked it not always enough. Push it it till it clicks and you see the clip release button popped back out. I have noticed this on several 22/45's... Hence, don't be too gentle when inserting the clip... Bump it in...!!

BTW.. If the clip isn't locked-in as discribed and you are able to fire a clip full of rounds, the bolt will-not lock back after last shot is fired!!! That could also be your problem.
 

bullockdgmanor

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
33
Location
Georgia
Doug, I did make sure my mags were in all the way -- but that's a good reminder anyway.

Rooger, when I took mine apart and looked at it, there is, in fact, some significant wear on it -- looks like a gouge out of the corner! The funny thing is, I never use the lever to release the bolt, so I'm not sure how it happened.

Oh well...do you know if the parts are available separately? Or should I just call Ruger?

Oh, and I can feel a lot of grittiness in the motion of the bolt stop, so maybe a good cleaning will help...

Thanks to you both for your interest in my problem...

Dan
 

rooger

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
144
Location
Auburn, CA
bullockdgmanor, Yes, the bolt stop assembly cost 5.00 plus shipping and handling. I was able to install it by releasing the trigger pivot retainer and then sliding out the trigger pivot pin just enough to let the bolt stop assy come out. Pay attention to how the bolt stop plunger and its spring fit together. The Ruger tech gave me some "free" help over the phone. You may want to ask a local gunsmith or a Ruger enthusiast to do this installation for you. Good luck!
 

bullockdgmanor

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
33
Location
Georgia
An update: I went ahead and bought the replacement AN-37 Bolt Stop Assembly (thanks for the info, Rooger!). I installed it with the help of Bullseye's detailed strip instructions at guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm (thanks, Bullseye!). It wasn't particularly hard, just took some care (and watching out for the bolt stop plunger and spring...). I also cleaned out the area really well, so now the grittiness and binding are gone.

I'll add more info when I get a chance to shoot it, but I expect it's all better now.

Here's an interesting photo: the old part (on the right) next to the new one (on the left). See the gouge? That's after about 2,500 rounds.

2010-04-24_Ruger_parts02-EW.jpg


- Dan
 
A

Anonymous

My mark III did the same thing. I removed the bolt stop, 5 minutes at the TIG and built it up. Re shaped and all is well. Hopefully it will last. If it continues to wear I may try to create a "wear" pad. Either someting easily replaceable or a material that will hold up better without damaging the bolt.

While I had the gun apart I also made a spacer out of 420 ss to replace the mag safety and machined off .015" from the mag catch to eliminate stove pipes........two best improvements I have yet to make!

I have some more improvements on the drawing board (CAD screen! LOL) Will post some pics when complete!

Rich....P.S. Woke up to 3" inches of SNOW. It is May right?
 

bullockdgmanor

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
33
Location
Georgia
Well, I finally got to go to the range, and everything's working properly again - with the new bolt stop part installed, the bolt locks back every time it's supposed to, and I had no failures of any kind with about 120 rounds of Federal bulk ammo.

Thanks to all for your interest and assistance!

Dan
 

tomiswho

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
323
Location
Georgia
Doug45601":l2haefm0 said:
(On 22/45 models, the bolt stop must also be depressed to permit the bolt to fly forward.)

For the most part, this is true... Thus providing that the clip is actually locked in place! Meaning the clip release button is sticking out completely after the clip is inserted. "a positive click after shoving the clip in".

From my experience... you can insert the clip all the way in .. "flush with the grip... Not hearing or feeling the clip release button pop out.. and then pull the bolt back and release and the bolt will fly back loading the first round! Hence, works like the basic MKIII. Of course the clip is not actually locked in and could fall out.. Not a good thing...

Therefore, ya gotta make sure the clip is fully locked into the 22/45 before bolt operates as discribed in the manual. Pushing the magazine in and assuming it's locked it not always enough. Push it it till it clicks and you see the clip release button popped back out. I have noticed this on several 22/45's... Hence, don't be too gentle when inserting the clip... Bump it in...!!

BTW.. If the clip isn't locked-in as discribed and you are able to fire a clip full of rounds, the bolt will-not lock back after last shot is fired!!! That could also be your problem.

Doug,
+1 here. When I first got my 2245 last September I was having too many rounds "smiled" by being driven into the bottom of the feed ramp. Then I noticed I often wasn't getting the magazine fully seated. I started checking visually to make sure the half-moon end of the magazine release button (on the right side) had fully come out to be flush with the stock. Much better. After I installed a new hammer bearing and got rid of the magazine interlock, the magazines seat much easier. They pop out with more authority also.
Tom
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
7,931
Location
Ohio , U.S.A.
yes, the proper fix is to replace but as said above it could be welded up as well as just "recut" the flat, and it will work...they wear, chip , round off, and bend off to the side....................often its the use of Hyper velocity ammo that is the culprit..................I know, I know, there are guys out there that swear by it and NEVER seem to have a problem ( and they wouldn't tell you if they did....) 8)
 

KRD

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
11
Unfortunately, I have had the same problem on my MarkIII Hunter.
It occurs about every 500 to 700 rounds. After replacing the bolt stop gizmo three times, I sent it into Ruger (twice now). My 20 year old MarkII has never had the problem and I always use the slingshot method as recommended. Each time they replaced the bolt.
Sadly, I have little confidence that the last fix will do it. I have about 300 rounds thru it since the last trip to Ruger, I should know if they got it right after my next trip out shooting. It
 

Highstandardguy

Buckeye
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
1,112
Location
NC
I hadn't thought about it before, but the MKIII bolt stop has a shorter 'ear' than the MKII stop. That might have something to do with it wearing so fast. I inspected the two I took out of my MKIIs when I replaced the bolts with MKIII bolts and stops and they show very little wear even though they have been shot a lot.
 
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