Mk 3 Barrell removal

[1coolcat]

If you go to rugers website and watch the disassembly and reassembly video and listen to the man (Ruger) has filmed in the presentation you will notice he tells you to use a hammer two separate the upper from the lowerand that it will come apart easier the more you do it.. Now... I'm a humble man a Would think the individuals which manufacturer the firearm in question Might just know a little bit more then me or us for that matter about how to maintain the firearm properly..just my personal thoughts

 

[rugerguy]

there are "hammers" and there are "hammers", MUST use the proper style to do the job.....I've had some that there is NO rubber hammer would EVER separate the upper ,from the lower.......comes out the leather mallet or a plastic (phnolic) LARGE, and they should,could do the job.....my carpet pad on the bench top has NEVER failed,ergo NO NEED or USE for ANY hammer...... 8)

seen MANY,MANY folks smack the back of their Ruger,, do damage to the receiver tube, knock off the rear sights, etc...........inevitable :roll:

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Guess I've been extremely lucky then, but more likely, careful with my customers property. I've had a federally licensed gun repair business, with a full fledged machine shop, since 1971 and have worked on a countless number of Ruger Mark pistols. My bench will employ rolled leather mallets, too light for getting seriously tight Ruger Mark pistols apart, mallets with phenolic resin and nylon faces and heads, hard nylon and even a plastic hammer with lead shot molded inside the heads. Called a dead blow hammer. Never, in 43 years, have I distorted a Ruger Mark pistol receiver, or managed to injure a rear sight in any fashion by using any of the hammers/mallets I mentioned above. When using the set-up I use for holding Ruger Mark pistol grip frames (panels removed) there's no way this side of the sun, that any grip frames will ever get twisted or damaged because of the molded, grip frame accepting, false jaws, I use to hold these pistols in my bench vise. Optics, should always be removed from Ruger Mark pistol receivers before the hammer starts moving in that direction. Can't imagine working on a pistol with any optics still mounted on it, when stubborn separation is called for. :roll: Brute force is never a good idea when working on any firearm, but thinking ahead and protecting the process as best that I can, is always a much better idea for my customers, and me.

 

[rugerguy]

I said "folks" ,not any sort of professional type person.........and again, I too having owned 3 different shops over the years and doing warranty service for some of the gun companies can attest to SEEING , and having to 'redo' what some "folks" try and do themselves...I rest MY case :wink:

 

[1coolcat]

Go to rugers website, watch disassembly video.. They tell you to use a hammer..I would think ruger the people who make the gun know more about it then we do

 

[rugerguy]

gosh, guess some do NOT see the light,,,,,my point was seeing what some "folks" can and do with ANY tools ( look at the scrapes and scratches MOST "folks" put on their screw head slots at ANY given time, trying to simply use a screwdriver, and the wrong one most of the time), just cause the book ,manual or some video shows or says what you can do, does NOT mean that everyone can do it !!!! :shock:
YOUR gun, you know ( or should realize your skill level with tools) so do what you can and are capable of doing.............me, I'll just set back and recall the money I had made fixing some "folks" FUBARS....hit it again, HARDER !!! 8) :lol:

( yeah, you can always blame Ruger....) :roll:

 

[Shooter III]

Guess I've been extremely lucky then, but more likely, careful with my customers property. I've had a federally licensed gun repair business, with a full fledged machine shop, since 1971 and have worked on a countless number of Ruger Mark pistols. My bench will employ rolled leather mallets, too light for getting seriously tight Ruger Mark pistols apart, mallets with phenolic resin and nylon faces and heads, hard nylon and even a plastic hammer with lead shot molded inside the heads. Called a dead blow hammer. Never, in 43 years, have I distorted a Ruger Mark pistol receiver, or managed to injure a rear sight in any fashion by using any of the hammers/mallets I mentioned above. When using the set-up I use for holding Ruger Mark pistol grip frames (panels removed) there's no way this side of the sun, that any grip frames will ever get twisted or damaged because of the molded, grip frame accepting, false jaws, I use to hold these pistols in my bench vise. Optics, should always be removed from Ruger Mark pistol receivers before the hammer starts moving in that direction. Can't imagine working on a pistol with any optics still mounted on it, when stubborn separation is called for. :roll: Brute force is never a good idea when working on any firearm, but thinking ahead and protecting the process as best that I can, is always a much better idea for my customers, and me.

Perfect !

 

[Clovishound]

This may not add much, but I found, through experience, that if you don't periodically field strip a Mark and thoroughly clean it, you will have problems. I bought my Mark I new back in the mid 70s. I shot it often for a few years. After a period of time, I decided to field strip it. I did not have the advantage of the internet and had an extremely difficult time getting it working properly again. I vowed to never disassemble it again.

Years and perhaps a couple K of ammo later, I started having trouble with feeding and light strikes. By then I was able to get detailed instructions and videos of the proper way to reassemble my gun. Turns out it was easy as pie, once you know the secret handshake. Feeding problems and light strikes went away. I now do a field strip and clean after a K or so.

My Mark I target has always had the barrel/receiver slide right off. I don't ever remember having to whack it to get it off the frame. I would actually like to tighten it up a little.

 

[sandman228]

i just bought a mk3 22/45 target model yesterday I haven't fired a shot from it yet but have already torn it down and put back together 3 times just to get myself used to it again. I say again because Ive owned 2 ruger mk2's in the past, a mk1 tapered , and a fixed sight slab sided 22/45 in the past . I was younger and less patient then and got rid of them because there such a pain in the a$$ to tear down wich I do every time I shoot . they do require a healthy smack to get barrel off more so when new . I owned a beretta neos for a few years there much easier to tear down but cant hold a candle to the mk1,2,or3 or 22/45 as far as accuracy . so I went back to the ruger I just hope 22 ammo comes back down to somewhat normal before I use up my 2500 round stash (no im not an ammo hoarder). I don't wanna open that can of worms again .its not a hoard I do use it ,just allot more sparing than I used to .