Mk 3 Barrell removal

[jerryb4]

I have a Mk 3 22/45 & after a breakdown can not get the barrel to break from the frame. I tapped it with a rubber mallet but still no go. Any ideas out there as to why & what to do? I ended up taking it to a gunsmith but want get it back until Sat.
Thanks.

 

[rugerguy]

On any of the 'brand new' ( even older ones that have NEVER been taken apart) the initial "impact" required to break the 'upper' ( receiver and barrel) loose and off the grip frames can be pretty hard, tough to hold onto and hit the rear of the upper hard enough to "break loose"....as to the MK III you do have the magazine out I hope???? Have seen many try and forget to remove the magazine..............all these years we find it the easiest to just use a piece of thick carpet remnant on the work bench and just smack the gun downward on to the top, rear edge of the upper ( receiver) and the whole thing just "pops" off.............




doesn't get any simpler or easier than this.................and if its that "tight" to put it back on, just do the same thing in reverse, onto the "nose" ( muzzle/front) of the barrel.......in time it all gets "loose" anyway.

 

[jerryb4]

Thnx Dan...when I get the gun back I'll give it a try!

 

[CraigC]

I don't know why people think they have to do this so often???

 

[ModernRifle]

I don't know why people think they have to do this so often???

Do what?
1) Remove the barrel?
2) Rap the barrel to remove it
3) Ask the question?
4) Post replies with no context?

 

[Shooter III]

Everybody at one time was ignorant and had to learn .....

According to Websters Dictionary:
Ignorant is simply a lack of knowledge, so you don't know what you don't know. Therefore a smart man asks for help.

I don't think the guy is stupid, which according to Webster is the inability to learn.

So whoever you are welcome to the forum ... there are lots of knowledgeable people round here willing to point you in the right direction.

 

[CraigC]

Do what?

Take them apart. Seems as though a lot of folks put themselves through a lot of hassle because they think they need to take the thing apart every time they shoot it. It just isn't necessary.

Technically, it's not the barrel, it's the barreled receiver.

 

[rugerguy]

key word here is "have" to,,,,maybe it's "want" to, and in our case of the picture above was "need" to , to show "where" the tap is needed to get it off, for the sake of the picture..... I'll let you guys beat the crap out of your stuff with a BFH or whatever you like to "thump" on things, to do the same thing..............for the "new" guy , hope this helps, after all, you did ask............
and as I noted in the reply , it is an "upper", a barreled receiver, the "lower" is the grip frame, and "in time it all gets loose anyway". :roll:
Does any one "have" to??? we know of some guns from the 50's that have NEVER been apart, and they work just fine. :wink:

 

[Pal Val]

I take apart my Ruger "Mk"s once a year for cleaning, whether they need it or not. It's as much of a hassle as I can tolerate. I keep a nylon mallet handy for the tapping. I had an old one that got loose enough to take apart with a tug. I tapped on the sides of the lower frame to make it tighten up. I believe the design is meant to be really tight.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I don't personally think it matters whether somebody needs to, wants to, or has to, remove the upper from the grip frame. The thing is, it was made to be removed. The first time at removal, many folks have difficulty with removing the upper from the lower and are apprehensive about giving the back face of the receiver a good whack with a plastic faced, or rubber hammer. Persistence pays off is spades, but one thing I've been recommending for the 44 years I've been working on Ruger pistols, is a dab of anti-seize compound applied to the under-side of the tab in the grip frame and then the socket for which that tab fits into, in the receiver. This stuff:



You can get smaller tubes at your local auto supply store. The reason I like it is because it contains copper dust, which helps a bit with keeping the tab and receptacle from galling and seizing up when they get back together again. Makes for much easier removal the next time. I have personal Ruger Mark pistols that have been apart for thorough cleaning, many, many times and they're still as tight as the day I bought 'em. I'm of the opinion that a happy gun is a clean gun, so I clean as often as the mood sets upon me, but I always add that copper stuff.

 

[Shooter III]

but I always add that copper stuff.

Good idea ...

 

[mohavesam]

I don't know why people think they have to do this so often???

+10. This is 2014 already! Buy a "DunKit".

 

[Shooter III]

I don't know why people think they have to do this so often???

I enjoy cleaning my weapons, besides .. .. ..
it's my gun and I'll clean it as often as I like and how I like, BUCK-O !!!

 

[Zorba]

It *is* a bit alarming to take a hammer to a beautiful, new pistol - rubber or not! I've done this once so far with mine - and it took QUITE a good whack with a rubber mallet to get it loose!

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I don't know why people think they have to do this so often???

I enjoy cleaning my weapons, besides .. .. ..
it's my gun and I'll clean it as often as I like and how I like, BUCK-O !!!

Well put. :wink: I only have 17 Ruger Mark pistols that involve the early Standards, Mark I Target, Ruger Mark II's, III's, 22/45's and Mark III 22/45 RP's. I don't clean these pistols EVERY time after I shoot 'em, and I didn't see where anybody suggests that that should be done. :roll: I do believe in a periodic (depending on how MUCH the pistol has been shot) complete takedown and thorough cleaning. Then, I can peer into the nooks and crannies involved with these pistols to make sure I have removed all the gunk. I very well know what year it is, but I can't see which parts, or springs that may need replacement because of wear or breakage if it's just dunked in my solvent tank. A once a year complete takedown, parts cleaning, inspection, and then a re-lube with EEZOX gives me the confidence I desire when I take these out back of my shop and practice popping bowling pins or steel flippers to get ready for serious shooting. Funny thing, I get many more, really dirty guns, in for repair, than I do clean ones. :shock:

 

[Shooter III]

It *is* a bit alarming to take a hammer to a beautiful, new pistol - rubber or not! I've done this once so far with mine - and it took QUITE a good whack with a rubber mallet to get it loose!

nothing alarming about it at all; it is just inherent with the way it was designed .... therefore it must be wacked on with a hammer.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Sometimes I have a bit of trouble with getting my intentions across to these "stubborn" ones that just don't understand. That's when I bring out this "mutha". It's rubber and it hasn't killed any pistols or animals in the making of any movies. :lol:

 

[Shooter III]

It *is* a bit alarming to take a hammer to a beautiful, new pistol - rubber or not! I've done this once so far with mine - and it took QUITE a good whack with a rubber mallet to get it loose!

This is NOT alarming to me at all; look on Ruger's website, you'll find video's showing exactly that, wacking it with a rubber hammer, its inherent to the design.

 

[Shooter III]

Sometimes I have a bit of trouble with getting my intentions across to these "stubborn" ones that just don't understand. That's when I bring out this "mutha". It's rubber and it hasn't killed any pistols or animals in the making of any movies. :lol:

L M A O

 

[Shooter III]

Well put. :wink: I only have 17 Ruger Mark pistols that involve the early Standards, Mark I Target, Ruger Mark II's, III's, 22/45's and Mark III 22/45 RP's. I don't clean these pistols EVERY time after I shoot 'em, and I didn't see where anybody suggests that that should be done. :roll: I do believe in a periodic (depending on how MUCH the pistol has been shot) complete takedown and thorough cleaning. Then, I can peer into the nooks and crannies involved with these pistols to make sure I have removed all the gunk. I very well know what year it is, but I can't see which parts, or springs that may need replacement because of wear or breakage if it's just dunked in my solvent tank. A once a year complete takedown, parts cleaning, inspection, and then a re-lube with EEZOX gives me the confidence I desire when I take these out back of my shop and practice popping bowling pins or steel flippers to get ready for serious shooting. Funny thing, I get many more, really dirty guns, in for repair, than I do clean ones. :shock:

EXACTLY ... I carry my Beretta 96A1 often, it gets put under my car seat, in the glove box, taken camping, carried extremely dusty conditions, it gets full of clothes lint and grit just from doing these things, even if I do not shoot it ... so every few months I break it down and give it (lets say) a bath, relube and back on my hip it goes !!! WHY ? Because I want to and it makes me feel confident that it will go "BANG" when I need it too ((( So there, I have spoken ! enough said ))).