m77 action screw 95 inch lbs.......

[shaffe48]

So, I've been trying to get my front action screw tightened down to 95 inch pounds. I assumed it was right already as it was tightened by a gunsmith after my trigger work but it came off easily with a screw driver. We tried a torque wrench but can't get it down that tight without the screw stripping. Went to a well established gunsmith and they acted like I was crazy claiming they tighten all their rifles to 35 lbs or hand tight (not the first time I've thought these people were idiots).

So, how necessary is it to get 95 lbs and do those gunsmithing torque drivers work? Has anyone here tightened to 95 inch pounds and how was it done and how hard was it? I want to know before investing 60 dollars.... Thanks.

 

[shaffe48]

So, I've been trying to get my front action screw tightened down to 95 inch pounds. I assumed it was right already as it was tightened by a gunsmith after my trigger work but it came off easily with a screw driver. We tried a torque wrench but can't get it down that tight without the screw stripping. Went to a well established gunsmith and they acted like I was crazy claiming they tighten all their rifles to 35 lbs or hand tight (not the first time I've thought these people were idiots).

So, how necessary is it to get 95 lbs and do those gunsmithing torque drivers work? Has anyone here tightened to 95 inch pounds and how was it done and how hard was it? I want to know before investing 60 dollars.... Thanks.

Gun shop also claimed they had no way of getting the screw down that tight and no way of getting it off if they did.

 

[Ladobe]

Went to a well established gunsmith and they acted like I was crazy claiming they tighten all their rifles to 35 lbs or hand tight (not the first time I've thought these people were idiots).

This "idiot" has just used hand tight on firearms for well over 5 decades with no problems.

 

[Silent Sam]

95in/lbs shouldn't be hard to get on the angle screw. Done it many times. That is the high spec, not required to be that tight. Ruger makes them tight from the factory. The torque on that screw can affect how the rifle groups though. It affects the pressure point at the end of the barrel channel. I start at or near the high spec and see how its shoots. Then drop down in 5lb increments to see where it shoots the best.

 

[shaffe48]

Went to a well established gunsmith and they acted like I was crazy claiming they tighten all their rifles to 35 lbs or hand tight (not the first time I've thought these people were idiots).

This "idiot" has just used hand tight on firearms for well over 5 decades with no problems.

Yes...they were also the ones that did the trigger job on a Savage 22 lr that now fires when I take it off safety occasionally and they were also the ones who took the same 22 that fails to extract with unfired rounds (cci stinger) when just cleaned and cleaned it and gave it back to me with a $40 bill.

Sure hand tight works for some...but anyone with any experience getting them to 95 inch lbs and any recommendations in doing it? Factory specs are 95 inch lbs and many say this is a big accuracy issue with the Rugers. I really didn't expect to see gun professionals literally aghast (at this unnamed place) that someone was tightening to factory specifications but, if you want to do it right, do it yourself I guess.

 

[shaffe48]

95in/lbs shouldn't be hard to get on the angle screw. Done it many times. That is the high spec, not required to be that tight. Ruger makes them tight from the factory. The torque on that screw can affect how the rifle groups though. It affects the pressure point at the end of the barrel channel. I start at or near the high spec and see how its shoots. Then drop down in 5lb increments to see where it shoots the best.

Got this now, thanks.

 

[Clark]

...We tried a torque wrench but can't get it down that tight without the screw stripping...

Most torque wrenches measure in ft-lbs. Are you sure you had one that read in in-lbs? Your problem would make sense if this is the case, you would have been applying 12x the torque spec'd if you had the wrong wrench.

Clark

 

[RJ556]

shaffe48, I use an automotive type torque wrench that tops out at 150 inch pounds, but I usually torque my M77 forward action screw to 60 inch pounds. If you read up on fastener torquing, torque specs are given for dry threads. If the threads are lubricated, torque spec should be decreased by approximately 15%. I also use Torx head screws on the front of my M77 actions. Straight slot screws get buggered up when a lot of torque is put on them. My M77 actions are epoxy bedded, so 60 inch pounds is enough.

 

[shaffe48]

Thanks all:

--Yes, I was using inch pounds.
--We were also using an automotive torque wrench and the $60 gunsmithing wrench I was looking at online only goes to 65 lbs . We were actually wondering if it was possible to use a torque head screw. I think I will look for these before ordering a few from brownells with the flathead.
--We had it darn tight, probably about 60 lbs. But now the screw is stripped just enough in that direction that I can't turn it more as we did start off with a bad bit. But....I just went and shot it anyways and got a .85" (5 shot) group with my 165 gr load and .65 (3 shot) group with my 180 gr load. I went to my steadiest ever rest, but I was getting 1 1/2 with the 180 gr preferred load before even on a bench I had gotten .43 with my most accurate load. Seems like the gun is much more consistent now even with this (rather large) increase in tightness.

I'm not going to touch it for now but I'll be looking for some of these torque screws just in case I ever need to take the gun apart.

 

[RJ556]

shaffe48, I'm glad your M77 is shooting so well. If you cannot find any Torx screws locally, you can order them at marshallshardware.com The size of the Torx socket head screw that fits the M77 action is, 1/4-28 x 7/8". The price per screw is $.27, although shipping is around $6, if I remember correctly. But, you won't have to worry about stripping out the head on them.

 

[buckeyeshooter]

might also mention if the angled screw is too loose, the tang will certainly split the stock on recoil with a 338wm or 458. I tighten that screw-- very tight! Also, be positive to check it before you go to the range if the gun has been sitting in the safe. If the wood dries and shrinks, it can be much looser than you expect.

 

[modrifle3]

I would not be heavily concerned about the 95....that seems high to me. I would have to look back but I beileve my weatherbys and remingtons are specs around 65. If the screw can't take the torque then the torque is to high. If you are worried about it coming loose, use purple or blue loctite. I had a hand tightened custom .03 a3 and it was never an issue and this was a 1 moa gun that used a wooden stock that bedded the barrel. Of course once the action was set I never removed it.

 

[flcracker64]

might also mention if the angled screw is too loose, the tang will certainly split the stock on recoil with a 338wm or 458. .

As well as a .358Win. The laminated stock on my Frontier split from just this issue after about 20 rounds. Ruger swapped out for a new stock for free. I set my F.A.T. driver at max torque (65 in/lbs) and all is well.