Light primer strikes on Ruger Blackhawk

[Lt Choate]

Recently bought a vintage Ruger Blackhawk made in 1967. This was before the new model came about so it has the three screws, etc. But, the previous owner did install a transfer bar.
Anyway, it is chambered in .357 and works wonderfully with said cartridge. However, when firing .38 specials, I ran some Winchester whitebox and magtec rounds through it in 38 and only about half fired. Each had a dimple in the primer, but did not go off. Then I loaded it with six Federal hydroshock .38's and all of them fired.
From what I have stated can any of you tell if this is likely an ammo issue or can the striking of the hammer an adjustable thing on the Blackhawk?

thanks,

 

[Mobuck]

I've 3 of the Blackhawks (2 9mm/357 convertibles) but never had this scenario. I would just guess that this is an ammo related failure. Winchester WB and MagTec are toward the lower end of 'good' IMHO.

 

[DGW1949]

I'd be taking a good look at the tip of my firing pin and the nose of the hammer...pin might be chipped or wore. If not, my money is on not enough protrusion...in other words, ya might have to dress down the nose a little so the portion that contacts the transfer bar can shove the pin a hair further towards the primer....Hope this helps.

DGW

 

[Lt Choate]

Thank you both for the suggestions.

 

[GasGuzzler]

Put the original parts back in (either way) then retest. Sounds like ammo but I wouldn't have a three-screw with a transfer bar (or even another new model).

 

[Hvymax]

Works fine except for this one ammo???

 

[contender]

If the previous owner had the "safety retro refit" added,, I suspect there may have also been a swapping of the hammer (main) spring.
Do as noted above,, inspect the parts.
Re-install the original 3-screw parts.
And replace the main spring with an original factory one.

MANY, MANY spring kits are sold to people who want a "lighter feel" in their action or triggers. Instead of doing a PROPER action job,, which will allow a sweet action, AND maintain a proper ignition of the ammo.

Very often, I hear things like; "What is the lightest weight of spring can I use before I experience ignition failures?"

 

[Hvymax]

Why haven't you posted any pics of the various primers for evaluation??? The ones that fired vs the ones that didn't etc. WTF are we supposed to base our opinion on??? My Max9 before and after striker mods.

 

[Lt Choate]

Excellent suggestions and comments.

Let me say that I bought this at a gun show and the conversion to the transfer bar was done by a previous owner and the old 3 screw components are no longer with the gun. Is there a way to get old parts? Even as I type this, I doubt it.

Secondly, I have attached a photo of some cartridges. From left to right: a) .357 that did fire, b) .38 spcl (Federal) that did fire, c) .38 spcl (Winchester white box) that did fire, d) .38 spcl (Winchester white box) that did NOT fire.

I will also note that the two Winchester rounds shown were loaded in the same cylinder and as I cycled through the strike varied.

I see no rhyme or reason for this variance but maybe it will speak to some of you who are more experienced.

 

[rugerguy]

a fired cartridge ( empty case) is NOT a good indicator as to firing pin protrusion etc as the "fired case" backs up in ignition,( primer bulges) gives a false indication...........

and I agree with the above check the hammer spring and change ammo.....

 

[contender]

Ok, you bought it used,, and didn't get original parts. Not unavailable,, but expect to pay around $125-$150 average for the OM parts to correct this injustice.

I'd strongly suggest you try a known factory hammer spring as the first thing you attempt in your endeavors.

As Dan says,,, primer indentation isn't always the best indicator.

 

[Randyzzz]

I recently ran into a similar issue with my 1976 vintage .45. I typed in a long description of what I encountered, but I realized that it probably wouldn't be helpful to the OP. So I started a new thread about it- Light Primer Strikes Too.

 

[Lt Choate]

Thanks, Randyzzzzz. When you say on your post that you, "dressed down the hammer nose a bit" what exactly do you mean that you did??

 

[Randyzzz]

Thanks, Randyzzzzz. When you say on your post that you, "dressed down the hammer nose a bit" what exactly do you mean that you did??

I took it down a few thousandths with a file, and then took a stone to it to smooth out the file marks.

This was a pawn shop gun- the shop put their number on the face of the hammer as you can see. Bugs the crap out of me, that's one of the reasons it has to go. I would have worked it to perfection but it's not worth the effort for a "defaced" hammer. ( If I really need to I can polish off the number.)