Light primer strikes on lock-equipped BH

[Yosemite Sam]

I wanted to put a note in here to let others know of my experience, for a "just in case" kind of thing.

First off, I fully acknowledge that I have performed the standard "poor man's trigger job" on this gun, of removing one leg of the trigger spring from it's supporting pin. I've done this on all my Ruger SAs, and this is the first time it's (potentially) caused an issue.

Mine is a Lipsey's .44 BH, which is based on the 50th Anniversary gun with the internal lock. The design of the lock mechanism utilizes a shorter mainspring and strut, which some have described as "wimpy".

I've been experiencing light primer strikes on mine, with my handloads using WLP primers. The same rounds go off first time every time in my S&W 624 with a reduced power mainspring.

A little testing seems to indicate that the unhooked trigger spring leg causes enough interference with the movement of the mainspring that it isn't transferring enough energy to ignite the primer. When I reconnect it the gun functions fine, albeit with a heavier trigger pull.

I really just wanted to put this out in case someone gets one of these guns, does this mod, and runs into this themselves. I'm going to experiment a bit more, maybe get another trigger spring and try bending and/or cutting the legs instead of just unhooking one. Worst case I may try to bypass the lock, and put a full length strut and full power mainspring in there.

-- Sam

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Hey Sam, this article will show you exactly how to bend the trigger spring. I saved it a long time ago from a post here on RugerForum. I've done all my single-actions that way.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

Didn't Flatgate put an Old Army mainspring into an IL Blackhawk?

...Jimbo

 

[JHRosier]

Sam,
I've noticed tha same thing with my Ruger New Vaquero.
I rebent the trigger spring to reduce the weight and the problem went away.

If I expected to need the gun to function in the field, I would be looking to Wolff or someone else for an extra power mainspring.

Jack

 

[Dale53]

I have a couple of new Ruger .44's. They both are marginal regarding mainstring power. I have had NO problems, but I bent the trigger return spring to obtain my lighter pull and both legs bear equally.

If I have any problems with ignition, I will try a HEAVIER main spring.

FWIW
Dale53

 

[tek4260]

I replaced my trigger return springs with lighter aftermarket springs. I think this is a much better solution than bending, which I have done as well. If you bend the legs enough to get a light trigger, you run the risk of the trigger not resetting and possibly not properly engaging when you cock the pistol. The factory springs are heavy, and bending them does not change this. Nothing quite as unnerving as cocking the pistol a few times after you bend the spring and having the hammer drop as you look at the pistol with nothing near the trigger. If you keep tweaking the factory spring, it will happen to you as well, possibly when its loaded!!

 

[rkrcpa]

I left my mainspring alone and put the 30 oz. Wolff trigger spring in my Lipsey 44Spl. Seemed like the easier way to deal with the spring since bending the original would result in trial and error.

It definitely helped the pull but now I can "feel" the sear disengage. I'll probably end up having some action work done, my .41 was the same way.

 

[Chief 101]

The trigger spring should have no effect on how hard the hammer hits the firing pin. You may just have another problem. Chief aka Maxx Load

 

[Yosemite Sam]

The trigger spring should have no effect on how hard the hammer hits the firing pin. You may just have another problem. Chief aka Maxx Load

Chief,

It doesn't, per se. What happens is when you disconnect one leg of the trigger spring and just leave it hanging it can rub against the side of the mainspring, and/or sit on top of it. This seems to cause enough interference with the movement of the mainspring/strut/hammer to slow things down enough that the light strikes occur.

Using a lighter trigger spring, bending the legs, or snipping off one leg instead of leaving it hanging would probably solve the problem.

The point is (I think) that the mainsprings in older New Models are strong enough to overcome the interference of the hanging spring leg, where the new, shorter spring used on the lock-equipped models may not be.

I'll probably just go ahead and pick up some Wolff spring kits for all my Ruger SAs and do them right.

-- Sam

 

[flatgate]

I'm not aware of a "stronger" spring to replace the "whimpy" one in the "L" suffix models.

I figured out how to modify the "L" model's mainspring seat (damn, it looks like some sort of lock thingie.....) so I could utilize a "real" spring. I still wasn't happy with the set-up and simply changed out the grip frame......

flatgate

 

[Yosemite Sam]

I just checked: Wolff makes reduced power mainsprings for the XR-3 lock-equipped frames, but the "Extra Power" springs are listed as "not available". It does not say "yet", but I'm hoping the implication is that they're on the way.

Oddly enough, Midway sells factory Ruger trigger springs in either stainless or "blue". And the stainless ones are on sale!

In case anyone is interested, Wolff's site lists the factory mainspring weight for the standard BH as 23lbs vs. the lock-equipped guns at 17lbs. I'd like about a 20lb spring for mine. Maybe I should just get a standard BH spring and cut off a couple of coils.

-- Sam

 

[WMB30]

I learned this morning trying to order from Ruger a mainspring of the "Whimpy L" variety that they will not sell such. The gun has to be returned for factory fitting.
Needless to say, I will not be returning the gun.
Bill