Life expectancy of 327 Brass

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Joined
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I've probably reloaded more 327 than anything. It's one of my most favorite calibers. By now I've gotten a good reliable load for the caliber, which makes it all the more enjoyable.

For brass, I've just started with factory ammo and have saved the empty brass. This group of brass for my 327 has been reloaded probably 15 or 17 times. And I see inconsistencies in different pieces when reloading. But it still works.

How many reloads of the brass would you think a caliber like 327 can go for?
 

recumbent

Buckeye
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South West Indiana
327 is my favorite too. I use starline brass, but have not reloaded as many times as you. I use 100 grain bullets and 231 powder. Medium hot loads.
 

Rick Courtright

Hawkeye
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Kevin said:
For brass, I've just started with factory ammo and have saved the empty brass. This group of brass for my 327 has been reloaded probably 15 or 17 times. And I see inconsistencies in different pieces when reloading. But it still works.

Hi,

I don't load the .327, Kevin, so can't speak to its longevity. But your reload count makes me wonder, do you trim your cases?

Talk of trimming revolver cases will have the naysayers crawling out from under their rocks in droves to poo-poo the idea, but there are a few of us who believe consistent results come from consistent procedures, and trimming brass on occasion is one of those procedures!

How often to trim? For myself, I set a vernier caliper at the SAAMI max length for the cartridge, and use it as a go-no go gauge. If one or two out of 100 is out of spec, I figure it's gonna be time soon. If 10-15 out of 100 don't pass, stop and trim all of 'em. This is truly one of those YMMV moments.

Rick C
 
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Thanks!

Rick; I actually don't trim them at all but do have a set of calipers. I'm going to go measure some right now.

The part of the case which I feel gets worn down, (or worn out) is the rim. I sort of feel like the rim gets worn down and rounded over, causing it to slip and move in the press's case holder. And since I use a hand primer, the cases with degraded rims slip there as well. Or so it feels like this anyway.

I did have some 327's split after firing a while back, but those got tossed in the recycle bucket.

In other calibers, I got fed up with inconsistencies and ordered Starline brass. Afterwards, and instantly, all reloading problems disappeared for both 38 and 357.

I'm thinking to do the same with 327 I guess.
 

Rick Courtright

Hawkeye
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Kevin said:
The part of the case which I feel gets worn down, (or worn out) is the rim. I sort of feel like the rim gets worn down and rounded over, causing it to slip and move in the press's case holder. And since I use a hand primer, the cases with degraded rims slip there as well. Or so it feels like this anyway.

Hi,

Kevin, you've certainly heard the joke from the computer world, "It's not a bug, it's a feature." That's sorta what the wiggleosis in the shell holders is.

A buddy of mine is not an engineer, but worked with them for close to 40 years and can draw pretty convincing pictures. Add that he loads on an old Bonanza, pre-Forster, Co-Ax press which normally doesn't use the style of shell holder we're used to (though I understand the newer ones can be adapted.)

He draws a picture of how the shell holder is supposed to have some wiggle room in there so the case will be able to self center in the various dies. So I don't think rim "wear" (as little as I suspect there is--think about the stories you've heard of .45 ACP cases loaded so many times the head stamp's gone) causes much of a problem.

Now that "several 100s" of an inch may be quite significant when we're talking over all case length. We need to remember that an additional shell length of 0.010" (one hundredth of an inch) in a .30-06 case probably does little to create significantly different pressures, while that same 0.010" could possibly cause measurable differences in "small" cases like the .327. One would have to spend some time with the chronograph doing "before and after" comparisons to see if that argument holds any water.

Rick C
 

Johnnu2

Hunter
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Kevin, I thought I'd jump in with some of my observations... I haven't shot 'thousands' but I have shot and reloaded 'hundreds' of 327 FedMag. I've found that my brass 'wears out' mostly in the primer pockets which become loose after (guessing here) probably 7 - 10 reloads. I've also found that the Starline brass I ordered several years ago comes thru with 'length issues' in my opinion. I ordered 500 and what I've used so far have all been shorter than spec. I've probably used about 100 cases of that batch. The factory cases (FC) that I've got, have mixed lengths after firing. I'm sorry that I can't give you specific measurements because I haven't been out shooting since early March and haven't reloaded any 327 since before then. But the differences in length have been significant; but not to a point where I care. I use a pretty heavy crimp so it sorta makes up for the length differences. As far as accuracy goes, I simply strive for mediocrity: as long as I can hit the 25 and 50 yd plates, I'm happy. I shoot mine out of a 4 1/4" Freedom Arms Mod. 97. I use a 45 -50 year old RCBS Jr. press, RCBS carbide dies, RCBS had prime tool. Hope this helps..
J
 

32magfan

Blackhawk
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Burkesville, KY
Kevin,
I am not much of a "scientific" loader but many thousands of 32H&R Mag reloads and several thousand 327 reloads in my rear view have given me some useful insight into your questions.

First of all, the level you stated loading your 327 is working in your favor for more loads. Less pressure means less brass stretching and that should make for longer life on the brass. Hot loads at maximum pressures generally reduce case life in all calibers.

The second thing I can add is to acquire a Lee Factory Crimp Die. You can use this even if your other dies are not Lee. Simply use the seat and crimp die you currently have as a seating die only. This may not work for you if you have a progressive press setup but you can still crimp after the case is "completed" on the progressive. The Factory Crimp Die is less sensitive to small variations in case length and gives a firm crimp on loads when set correctly. I use these on every straight-walled pistol cartridge that I load for.

My last suggestion is to use up that factory brass and then order from Starline. I had issues with Federal brass 30 years ago in some 32H&R cases that were not annealed correctly. This made them brittle and 14 split on initial firing of the factory loads. Being a newby reloader and no other brass being available, I sent the entire box back to Federal. They sent me a new box and a letter saying what the problem was and that it was now corrected, etc. The new box was fired with hopes of keeping the brass and 7 of those cases split!! A couple of years later, Starline came on the scene with 32H&R brass and I have never looked back. I still load some of the old Federal brass, it's just for plinking loads with lead bullets. I have not experienced issues with Federal 327 brass but I have had such good experiences with Starline that I immediately ordered 327 when they began offering it for sale. I load my standard lead load of 3.7 gr Clays and 115 gr.RNFP bullet in the Federal 327 cases.

I have trimmed 32 and 327 cases on a few occasions but only if they are way off on lengths. Trimming cases is a chore I don't enjoy much.

Happy shooting and stay safe!

32Magfan
 

dgr416

Single-Sixer
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Jan 4, 2008
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Georgia
I used Starline brass in my 32 HR mag ruger single six and it's the best brass made .The federal brass from factory loads was weak and split sometimes in friebds guns .I push my brass to the limits but I use small rifle primers also with the Starline brass and had no problems .I used my brass 25 times and quit at that with no problems at all .My loads with the 32 mag were faster than factory 327 mag loads .I think the 327 needs a longer barrel for the best performance at least 7.5 inches .I had three dan wesson 32 mags with 8 inch barrels they were the isha models and would shoot inch groups at 100 yards .I wish I had not sold them but I did .I almost had them rechambered to 327 mag but I was building my house and needed the money .Good luck with your 327 mag have fun !
 
Joined
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This is the best forum out there. Thanks to everyone. I do read all the posts. Usually I'll bookmark the better threads like this one to go back and reference later.

It's too hot lately to be reloading out in the garage. I'll get back to it when it cools off in another couple weeks or so. My batch of 327 is sitting there patiently waiting. :D

Thanks again.
 

J. R. WEEMS

Single-Sixer
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May 13, 2013
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WINCHESTER, VA
I want to reload for the 327, but first I need RUGER to make me a cylinder for my Buckeye-- What are the best dies to get. REDDING would be my first choice and Hoenadys XTP bullet-- powder might be IMR 800xX if I can find a load listed. :mrgreen:
 

TX Nimrod

Bearcat
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Jul 11, 2008
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Superstition Mountains
Flake 800-X is a decent powder for both 85 and 100 grain Hornady bullets (better for the 85) although it is a bit tough to meter. You can find data on Hodgdon's website.

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol



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