Lee Taper Crimp Die for 38/357 reloads

oldcrab

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I only roll-crimp revolver cartridges, but I saw online where Lee also sells a taper crimp die for 38/357.
Why do some reloaders resort to taper crimps?
Is it because some bullets don't have a cannelure or groove for the roll crimp?
Or?????
Just curious....

Thanks for your replies.

Crab
 
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There are some competition shooters, shooting mouse-fart loads,, who use a taper crimp.

But in general,, a roll crimp is preferred by 99% of revolver shooters.
This roll crimp helps prevent "bullet jump" from happening. A taper crimp is desired by semi-auto calibers because the case headspaces off the mouth of the case,, not the rear rim.

I would say that in general,, a taper crimp will be used by revolver competition shooters,, using as light of loads as possible,, AND using powder coated cast bullets that do not have a crimp groove.
 
I shoot Berry's Bullets 125 gr plated bullets with no groove in my .357 and use a taper crimp. More removing the bell than much crimping. I get good accuracy and the bullets do not back out. Yeah, they are light loads. Not a competition shooter but sorta a wimp. I just like shooting with little recoil sometimes. I have done some taper crimps on powder coated bullets with good results too.
 
Thanks, contender and wood person, for your valuable replies to my question on revolver taper crimps!
You've both explained where it makes sense to use a taper crimp on two different scenarios.
Appreciate your experienced-input!

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours
God Bless

Crab
 
What you want is a Lee Factory Crimp Die
LEE PRECISION 90861, Carbide Factory Crimp Die .38 Special
I always used to go with RCBS dies and had to decide if I wanted a taper crimp or a roll crimp. Now I might still buy RCBS dies but I'm now set on also getting a Lee Factory Crimp Die. I love these things. Do you want a tight crimp? Light crimp? Roll crimp? Taper crimp? Cannelure? Crimp grove? Use this Factory Crimp Die and just set it to crimp as light or tight as you want.

It's easy to set. Use one die to seat the bullet. It doesn't matter what brand you go with just make sure the die is set high enough so it won't try to crimp (many bullet seating dies also try to crimp in the same action). Next use a Lee Factory Crimp Die in a separate step to crimp as tight as you want.
lee-38357-factory-crimp-die.jpg

When I was using RCBS die sets, it was like "My bullet needs to be set deeper but that will then crimp too much so I'll have to raise the die but lower the bullet seating section in the middle. The center section has a finer thread then the outer die so how much do I turn each part??? Agh!!
 
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You can use light roll crimp or taper crimp on light loads to save on overworking the case neck. Using heavy roll cramp will cause the case mouth to split much sooner from hardening (overworking) of the metal, especially nickel.
 
There are some competition shooters, shooting mouse-fart loads,, who use a taper crimp.

But in general,, a roll crimp is preferred by 99% of revolver shooters.
This roll crimp helps prevent "bullet jump" from happening. A taper crimp is desired by semi-auto calibers because the case headspaces off the mouth of the case,, not the rear rim.

I would say that in general,, a taper crimp will be used by revolver competition shooters,, using as light of loads as possible,, AND using powder coated cast bullets that do not have a crimp groove.
I have a tool that puts a crimp groove on both jacketed and lead bullets. Its well worth having. I have used it even on bullets that I load for semi-auto handguns.
 
Some powders actually prefer a heavy roll crimp. Taper crimps work well for preventing bullet set-back or being pushed deeper into the case(AKA semi-auto rounds). Roll crimps do a better job of preventing bullets from being 'pulled' by heavy recoiling rounds in revolvers.
 
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