It's raining Rugers...brought home 2 SS .32 H&Rs

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Teddydogno1

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 10, 2013
Messages
212
I visited a small gun shop I don't go to often today after some other errands. They had a pair (not sequential) of polished stainless Ruger Single Six .32 H&R "Mini Vaquero" revolvers with the faux ivory factory grips. Apparently the last two of several they had in from an estate. The price was $599 each, which is what I would expect. But only $1000 for the pair. After some deliberation and talking with them, I decided to bring them both home (though I will probably pass one of them on).

These were owned by a CAS shooter so they are not new, but look pretty good generally. They have a free-spin setup, which I don't think was factory back in 2000 when these were made. One of them also has a problem with getting "stuck" at one position so will need to go back home for repair. The one I keep I would like to explore having bored for .327 Federal if that is an option.

I know there have been several versions of these over the years. These are Model 06510. Not the short butt. Any idea why one label is yellow and the other is white? They are only 153 numbers apart.

ruger_ss32pair_left.jpg


ruger_ss32pair_boxes.jpg


Any other comments or info about them would be welcome.

Rob
 

G2

Hunter
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
2,239
Location
UT/AZ
No clue on the yellow vs white.
There really is no need to punch them out to 327,,, the 32M with a case full of H110/296 and a small rifle primer will work just fine :wink:

FWIW: The reason for the Single SEVEN, was to move the cylinder latch notch to a beefier location on the cylinder to aid in the “little extra” the 327 provides.
The 327 cylinder is also a tad longer, which you will have to watch bullet the length in a 32M cylinder punched out.

I have both and really see no need to punch 32M when loaded up to “Ruger Only” loads, there really is not that much difference at the business end.

I like 32HRM’s too.
3ruger32s.jpg
 

Teddydogno1

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 10, 2013
Messages
212
You're probably right, since I actually have a Single Seven, too.

ruger_ss_triples.jpg


The cylinder on the Seven measures 1.46" in length, and just 1.40" on the Sixes.

And then there's this in .32 H&R Extra Long (aka .327 Federal Mag...or should it be .32 H&R Magnum Magnum?)

henry_327.jpg


rob
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,775
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
Nice score on a pair of fairly rare Rugers.

According to the RENE Guide,, only about 500 of those made.

With them being as rare as they are,, I think I'd have a gunsmith look that one over instead of returning it to Ruger. Ruger may want to keep it saying it's not reparable, & offer a credit for a replacement. Especially if a gunsmith has already tuned the internals somehow.
 

Teddydogno1

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 10, 2013
Messages
212
Any idea what could cause that? Since it is only the one position that sticks and wont' rotate, I'd suspect the cylinder. I can swap in the other cylinder and see what happens. I want to be careful to not break the other gun. I didn't notice anything about the ratchets that looks bad to my eye.

Rob
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,776
Location
People's Republik of California
The problem with the one is the free spin pawl that was installed; it wasn't quite fitted completely. A simple fix. They no doubt have power Custom free spin pawls installed. Just call Power Custom and ask for a copy of the fitting instructions.

You can't hurt anything by swapping cylinders and in fact the former owner may have done that inadvertently which could be the reason one sticks. I don't recall if the cyls have the last three digits of the serial # electro penciled on the front face of the cyls. If they do, you can tell if they're swapped. Also the one can be fitted better for both cyls so that swapping cyls is a non-issue.

Contender is right, only about 500 blue and 500 stainless "Vaqueritos" were made with the standard size XR3-RED grip frame instead of the short grip frames.

And I agree with G2. Although simple to extend the chambers for 327 Fed Mag, you'll have to watch overall bullet length with the slightly shorter 32 Mag cyl. That's not a big issue but I wouldn't convert such a rare model either.

Congrats on a great price and enjoy!
 

Teddydogno1

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 10, 2013
Messages
212
I swapped the cylinders and the "problem" cylinder seems to work just fine in the other revolver.

The "good" cylinder works BETTER in the "problem" revolver, but there is still a bit of a hitch or extra effort in cocking at just one location. Nothing like preventing it from rotating though, like it does in the problem gun.

A close look at the problem cylinder shows that there is a bit of a burr on the inside edge next to the axis hole. When the cylinder is set so the problem area would be in place, this burr is at the directly 9 o'clock position, right where the pawl would act on it for rotation. Additionally, in the notch just above that (call it 10:30), there is also a little less of a burr. Because this burred cylinder works OK in the other gun, it could be a matter of fitting or tolerance stacking that make it work fine in one gun but not the other. Why the GOOD cylinder has a bit of a struggle in the other gun would have to be the pawl, right? I do see a shiny spot on its right side, maybe from contact with the burr in its own cylinder. I have ordered some fine gunsmitthing stones and will try to just remove those burrs and see where I am. I'm also ordering a pair of new pawls to have on hand.

ruger_ss_813_ratchet.jpg

ruger_ss_813_pawl.jpg


Speaking of pawls...I looked at both pawls and neither look like they have a bevel cut on them to allow for reverse rotation. I also notice that when spinning the cylinder in either direction, there is no clicking/ratchet noise at all. They spin freely and silently. Cocking effort on both is also light and smooth. I have two NM BH Flat Tops and both are SUBSTANTIALLY harder to cock and now where near as smooth. Feels like night and day. But both have also been shot very little, which I don't think is the case with these little .32s.

I also see the the grips on the problem gun fit very poorly. Especially the left one. Look at that gap! It has a small chip out at the back on the right, too. And a brass screw. Maybe need to set these aside and try something different.

ruger_ss_813_grip.jpg


Maybe these:
ruger_ss_813_holly.jpg



Rob
 

foxtrapper

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 30, 2008
Messages
503
Very nice and enjoy! Brings back the shudders though. I remember buds gun shop having a blowout on the cc ones. $299.00 I hemmed and hawed guns were there for months just didn’t really need one. Dang ,should of bought em all!
 

32magfan

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
589
Location
Burkesville, KY
I really like those. I have a consecutive numbered pair of the short grip with the white grips. I have a bunch of other 32’s and 327’s. I never had the urge to ream out the cylinder on any of the H&R guns except for the Buckeye Blackhawk. I have too many but nowhere near all the different models and barrel lengths they made. I do have more than my share. :wink: 32’s are definitely addictive. Reloading for them can be also. I need to get started up again on that.

Thanks,
32Magfan
 

jgt

Blackhawk
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
846
Location
coleman texas
Suppliers order special runs and their boxes come with other than white labels. My Lipsey's guns have orange. Your yellow label may have come from Taylor, Davidson, or Lew Horton.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,776
Location
People's Republik of California
Teddydogno1 said:
I swapped the cylinders and the "problem" cylinder seems to work just fine in the other revolver.

The "good" cylinder works BETTER in the "problem" revolver, but there is still a bit of a hitch or extra effort in cocking at just one location. Nothing like preventing it from rotating though, like it does in the problem gun.

A close look at the problem cylinder shows that there is a bit of a burr on the inside edge next to the axis hole. When the cylinder is set so the problem area would be in place, this burr is at the directly 9 o'clock position, right where the pawl would act on it for rotation. Additionally, in the notch just above that (call it 10:30), there is also a little less of a burr. Because this burred cylinder works OK in the other gun, it could be a matter of fitting or tolerance stacking that make it work fine in one gun but not the other. Why the GOOD cylinder has a bit of a struggle in the other gun would have to be the pawl, right? I do see a shiny spot on its right side, maybe from contact with the burr in its own cylinder. I have ordered some fine gunsmitthing stones and will try to just remove those burrs and see where I am. I'm also ordering a pair of new pawls to have on hand.

Speaking of pawls...I looked at both pawls and neither look like they have a bevel cut on them to allow for reverse rotation. I also notice that when spinning the cylinder in either direction, there is no clicking/ratchet noise at all. They spin freely and silently. Cocking effort on both is also light and smooth. I have two NM BH Flat Tops and both are SUBSTANTIALLY harder to cock and now where near as smooth. Feels like night and day. But both have also been shot very little, which I don't think is the case with these little .32s.

Rob

There's three types of free spin pawls:

The factory RIP system which only free spins back to the last chamber and it clicks. This did not come on any 32 mags.

The original pawl for the 32 Mag and all other Rugers not fitted with the RIP system which can be made to free spin by filing the bevel on the top tooth that you described.

And the after market free spin pawl made by Power Custom which is what I believe your guns have. They do not have a bevel. They must be fitted. Call Power Custom for their free spin pawl instructions and follow those for fitting the problem pawl. Extra factory pawls for your gun will not help, just remove the free spin ability your guns now have.

Hope that helps,
 

snakeeyes4445

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 2, 2004
Messages
108
Location
Dubuque IA USA
I lucked into a twenty inch Henry in .327 wanting to put receiver sights on it, but several problems arose. I could not get point of impact to meet any cosmetically acceptable appearance of the sights. By moving the front sight almost half way off the barrel could finally sight in and get an accuracy estimation which wasn't good.
It isn't unusual for lever actions to "walk" as the barrel warms, but the early groups were quite bad.
The sight mounting holes were oversized and not in line with the frame. Oddly enough, the hole misalignment reduced rather than caused the point of impact problems.
I could not visualize how the gun could be fixed without replacing the receiver which I think was female threaded off axis.
Henry sent me a different new rifle which is shooting two and a half inch groups at 100 yds and peep sights.

My point is: get the shorter barrel for a handier feel. It will still be plenty heavy. The Skinner sights look very nice and the owner is great, but you can get a shorter front sight with a similar product from Ranger Point Precision. The AO white stripe blade is ideal and if you PM me, I will measure mine and tell you which height for this caliber.
 

.312Cal

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 30, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MN
No clue on the yellow vs white.
There really is no need to punch them out to 327,,, the 32M with a case full of H110/296 and a small rifle primer will work just fine 😉

FWIW: The reason for the Single SEVEN, was to move the cylinder latch notch to a beefier location on the cylinder to aid in the “little extra” the 327 provides.
The 327 cylinder is also a tad longer, which you will have to watch bullet the length in a 32M cylinder punched out.

I have both and really see no need to punch 32M when loaded up to “Ruger Only” loads, there really is not that much difference at the business end.

I like 32HRM’s too.
3ruger32s.jpg
There's a collection I'm jealous of.
 

.312Cal

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 30, 2022
Messages
5
Location
MN
I recently bought a Shield plus in 30SC and am noticing ammo becoming available in many places. Wondering how I can get a cylinder for my single six 32H&R chambered in 30SC.
 
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