is this safe to shoot...?

[AussieShooter]

I bought some .38 Spl ammo with lead projectiles from a local company that I won't name. Turns out that they didn't put a crimp on the cases, so when I loaded them into my lever-action rifle the projectiles on some of the rounds got pushed back into the cases. Hmmmm... :evil:

Obviously I can't shoot those in the lever-action rifle because they won't feed. But is it safe to shoot them with my Ruger Vaquero revolver? (I'm assuming for the minute that the cases haven't now got a bulge that prevents them from going into the chambers.) Or is it possible that the cases are now at risk of rupturing when fired?

 

[slippingaway]

If the projectiles have been pushed back in the case, they probably are NOT safe to fire. The reduced volume of the case now can lead to pressures that are much too high.

One thing you could do is get ahold of an inertial bullet puller, and carefully use it to move the bullets forward. Once the bullets are at or longer than the original overall length, they could be fired in the revolver. It will be time consuming and tricky, and a few might come out completely and lose powder, making them worthless. It all depends if you have the time and patience.

 

[revhigh]

If the projectiles have been pushed back in the case, they probably are NOT safe to fire.

Yeah, ESPECIALLY not in a Vaq.

 

[captainkirk]

The other thing that may be a problem even with your un-tried loads is that the bullets may pull out of the cases in a revolver like your Vaq just enough to tie up the gun before you make it around the cylinder. This may or may not be an issue depending upon the stoutness of the loads and the neck tension on the cases. I would just take them back...

captainkirk

 

[jimbo1096]

If you reloaded you could run the good ones through your crimp die. Use the Kinetic puller to gently knock the bullet back out. If they are not too far in you could use a pair of pliers and a soft cloth to pull the bullet back out. Just be careful not to deform the bullet.
No - don't attempt to shoot any that are set back into the case. Reduced internal space could cause excessive pressure.

 

[Pal Val]

Here's another question. If the people loading these cartridges forgot the crim, they could as well have set the powder charge wrong. Think about it. I would see these as "do not trust", pull the bullets and loaded them right myself.

Trust is a delicate thing.

 

[clevor362]

Hell no they're not! Deep seating bullets in straight wall cases has exactly the same effect on chamber pressure as dumping more powder in. I won't bore you with details. PULL THEM!

 

[AussieShooter]

Thanks guys. You'll be relieved to know that I pulled and reloaded those rounds.

We ran a few of the other rounds through a chronometer. There was a bit of a spread in velocities, but not enough to worry about. I've since shot most of them without incident, leaving aside the ones that got pushed in.

Thanks for your warnings.

 

[TucsonBill]

Unless you know and trust someone, do not buy/shoot their reloads. Make your own and then you can only blame yourself.

An incorrectly made cartridge can most definitely screw up your weapon or your face. It isn't worth saving a few cents.

 

[Pal Val]

TucsonBill's are wise words to live by.

 

[volshooter]

Pal + 1 !!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rex Driver]

I bought some .38 Spl ammo with lead projectiles from a local company that I won't name. Turns out that they didn't put a crimp on the cases, so when I loaded them into my lever-action rifle the projectiles on some of the rounds got pushed back into the cases. Hmmmm... :evil:

Obviously I can't shoot those in the lever-action rifle because they won't feed. But is it safe to shoot them with my Ruger Vaquero revolver? (I'm assuming for the minute that the cases haven't now got a bulge that prevents them from going into the chambers.) Or is it possible that the cases are now at risk of rupturing when fired?

Sir, your question reminds me of THE reason I got into reloading about 30 years ago. I went to a gun show and bought some bargain 38Spls to run through a Smith Model 14 at the range and the first cylinder full locked up when a bullet slipped a bit out of the case and bound the cylinder. I went to my favorite hole in the wall gun smith (armorer for my department) and showed him the offending rounds. He looked at the rounds and smacked me in the back of the head and called me many unflattering names and then he took me to the back of his shop and gave me some lessons in reloading as well as my first start up press, powder measure and set of scales. One of the lessons he taught me was never to shoot reloads that I did not reload and never sell any to other people.

That old man is now gone, however, I still have that press mounted on my bench as a reminder of him and his many valuable lessons and yes, even that first smack on the back of my head.

Who said that you can not assault a young police officer, that old man never read that law!!!!

 

[AussieShooter]

Sir, your question reminds me of THE reason I got into reloading about 30 years ago. I went to a gun show and bought some bargain 38Spls to run through a Smith Model 14 at the range and the first cylinder full locked up when a bullet slipped a bit out of the case and bound the cylinder. I went to my favorite hole in the wall gun smith (armorer for my department) and showed him the offending rounds. He looked at the rounds and smacked me in the back of the head and called me many unflattering names and then he took me to the back of his shop and gave me some lessons in reloading as well as my first start up press, powder measure and set of scales. One of the lessons he taught me was never to shoot reloads that I did not reload and never sell any to other people.

I've learnt my lesson. But, to be fair to myself, the place I got the reloads wasn't some guy I met at the range or at a gun show. It was a place that manufactures high quality projectiles that are widely used around here. Reloading just isn't their core business. (I hope I haven't given too much away with those remarks.) These guys should have known better than to not crimp the cases to the projectiles. The experience provided the initial motivation for me to get into reloading. With my wife and three small kids, getting time to reload is not easy. But it's better than blowing up guns or my fingers.

The problem I've got now is that my Marlin 1894 Cowboy lever action rifle isn't feeding my .38 Spl reloads cleanly - every so often, I have to mess around to get the rounds chambered. Some say it's an overall length issue, and others say it's the infamous Marlin Jam. Seems like there's no end to hassles in this game.

 

[Rex Driver]

Dave, I would guess that your Marlin problem is one of OAL. I have two Marlin Cowboy Comps. chambered for 38spl only and they are very funny if the OAL gets much over 1.45', I have, also, heard that Marlins chambered for both 357 and 38 like longer rounds and some companies have cast bullets in 358 that give extra length. I would suggest that you go to the SASS wire (Single Action Shooting Society) and check on the Marlin subject, it has been discussed at length many times.

I do not know what type bullet you are using, however, most Marlins do better with either round nose flat points or trunicated (spelling?) than say semi wad cutters. You might also check at lever guns.com and check with them about the marlin.

Good luck and I am sure you will get the Marlin to singing very soon.

One last thing, the "Marlin Jam" can happen if you do not rack the lever all the way when speed shooting, other than that it is normally a wear factor in the loading gate.

 

[AussieShooter]

Thanks Rex Driver. I've seen stuff describing the Marlin Jam as a problem with a sharp edge on the lever wearing a groove on the underside of the lifter. Apparently this groove messes up the timing of the action so that you get jams, etc. I've looked at mine and the groove is starting to appear. The web pages I mentioned say that you can fix the problem by putting a radius on the edge of the lever that contacts the lifter and either replacing the lifter or somehow repairing the groove. This seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go through if the problem is actually an ammo OAL issue. BTW, I can't remember what the OALs of my reloads are, but I do remember that it's right in the middle of the range specified in the owners manual for the Marlin. However many people have said that the owners manual is a guide only and you need to mess around to discover what will work in your gun. I'll get onto the SASS wire.

Cheers