RJ556
Buckeye
I have a Ruger No.1 (K1A) in 6.5x55 Swede. I decided I wanted a good trigger on it. I was a bit skeptical about the reported claims of very low weight of pull on Jards No.1/No.3 trigger. So skeptical that I first built a copy of the Jard trigger using a stock trigger and the sear. I was surprised to find out that the Jard was indeed capable of very light pull weights, due to the change of trigger pivot point to being the same as sear pivot point. My copy was good enough to not buy the Jard unit, but by the time I realized that, I had already ordered the Jard.
The jard trigger is a beautiful piece of work. The difference in the WOP trigger you order is the compression weight of the spring supplied with your trigger. The triggers themselves are all the same. I had a Moyers unit in my rifle for years, but was never satisfied with it. The only way I could get an acceptable weight of pull on it (about 2.75 pounds) was to have the sear engagement right on the edge, which to me, was not safe.
I did encounter one problem with the Jard. With the safety selector in the rearmost (SAFE) position, the Jard safety engagement set screw was not far enough back to bear on the safety selector pad (see picture). I am not sure if this was a manufacturing tolerance extreme on my rifle, or if Jard is a bit short on the length of the bar on their trigger. It is very difficult, many times expensive and complicated to obtain any parts for your guns here in Romania where I live. Most vendors just will refuse to send parts over here. So, I decided to make a work-around for this problem.
I made a stop for the safety selector switch from stainless steel. I drilled and tapped the hole for the safety detent spring pin for 4-40 threads. I attached the stop to the safety switch on the left side with a stainless 4-40 screw, the screw sticking out on the right side serving as the pin for the safety detent spring. I used a stainless lock washer and Loctite so it will not come loose, unless I want it to.
Even though I shortened rearward throw of the safety selector, the bell crank on the safety bar that cams the hammer off of the trigger sear surface, still actuates fully as it should. I did just slightly move the bend in the safety detent spring forward for a good detent feel when the safety is put in the SAFE position.
If you do not disassemble and reassemble No.1's often, during a trigger install, that requires full disassembly, you will disassemble and assemble many times, because of the interrelationship of the adjustments and because of the way the No.1 is built. The parts have to go back together in a certain order. You can get down to the last part and find that the only way to get the part back in, is to take all of the other parts back out first.
In spite of the anomaly that I had concerning the safety engagement set screw, I still highly recommend the Jard trigger for the Ruger No,1/3. After I finished installation, my trigger pull weight measured 1.75 lbs., exactly as advertised. Before I hunt, I may bump the WOP up a tad, but I will shoot it at the range as it is. RJ
The jard trigger is a beautiful piece of work. The difference in the WOP trigger you order is the compression weight of the spring supplied with your trigger. The triggers themselves are all the same. I had a Moyers unit in my rifle for years, but was never satisfied with it. The only way I could get an acceptable weight of pull on it (about 2.75 pounds) was to have the sear engagement right on the edge, which to me, was not safe.
I did encounter one problem with the Jard. With the safety selector in the rearmost (SAFE) position, the Jard safety engagement set screw was not far enough back to bear on the safety selector pad (see picture). I am not sure if this was a manufacturing tolerance extreme on my rifle, or if Jard is a bit short on the length of the bar on their trigger. It is very difficult, many times expensive and complicated to obtain any parts for your guns here in Romania where I live. Most vendors just will refuse to send parts over here. So, I decided to make a work-around for this problem.
I made a stop for the safety selector switch from stainless steel. I drilled and tapped the hole for the safety detent spring pin for 4-40 threads. I attached the stop to the safety switch on the left side with a stainless 4-40 screw, the screw sticking out on the right side serving as the pin for the safety detent spring. I used a stainless lock washer and Loctite so it will not come loose, unless I want it to.
Even though I shortened rearward throw of the safety selector, the bell crank on the safety bar that cams the hammer off of the trigger sear surface, still actuates fully as it should. I did just slightly move the bend in the safety detent spring forward for a good detent feel when the safety is put in the SAFE position.
If you do not disassemble and reassemble No.1's often, during a trigger install, that requires full disassembly, you will disassemble and assemble many times, because of the interrelationship of the adjustments and because of the way the No.1 is built. The parts have to go back together in a certain order. You can get down to the last part and find that the only way to get the part back in, is to take all of the other parts back out first.
In spite of the anomaly that I had concerning the safety engagement set screw, I still highly recommend the Jard trigger for the Ruger No,1/3. After I finished installation, my trigger pull weight measured 1.75 lbs., exactly as advertised. Before I hunt, I may bump the WOP up a tad, but I will shoot it at the range as it is. RJ
