Installed a new trigger in my No.1 yesterday

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RJ556

Buckeye
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
1,070
Location
Focsani, Romania
I have a Ruger No.1 (K1A) in 6.5x55 Swede. I decided I wanted a good trigger on it. I was a bit skeptical about the reported claims of very low weight of pull on Jards No.1/No.3 trigger. So skeptical that I first built a copy of the Jard trigger using a stock trigger and the sear. I was surprised to find out that the Jard was indeed capable of very light pull weights, due to the change of trigger pivot point to being the same as sear pivot point. My copy was good enough to not buy the Jard unit, but by the time I realized that, I had already ordered the Jard.

The jard trigger is a beautiful piece of work. The difference in the WOP trigger you order is the compression weight of the spring supplied with your trigger. The triggers themselves are all the same. I had a Moyers unit in my rifle for years, but was never satisfied with it. The only way I could get an acceptable weight of pull on it (about 2.75 pounds) was to have the sear engagement right on the edge, which to me, was not safe.

I did encounter one problem with the Jard. With the safety selector in the rearmost (SAFE) position, the Jard safety engagement set screw was not far enough back to bear on the safety selector pad (see picture). I am not sure if this was a manufacturing tolerance extreme on my rifle, or if Jard is a bit short on the length of the bar on their trigger. It is very difficult, many times expensive and complicated to obtain any parts for your guns here in Romania where I live. Most vendors just will refuse to send parts over here. So, I decided to make a work-around for this problem.

I made a stop for the safety selector switch from stainless steel. I drilled and tapped the hole for the safety detent spring pin for 4-40 threads. I attached the stop to the safety switch on the left side with a stainless 4-40 screw, the screw sticking out on the right side serving as the pin for the safety detent spring. I used a stainless lock washer and Loctite so it will not come loose, unless I want it to.
Even though I shortened rearward throw of the safety selector, the bell crank on the safety bar that cams the hammer off of the trigger sear surface, still actuates fully as it should. I did just slightly move the bend in the safety detent spring forward for a good detent feel when the safety is put in the SAFE position.

If you do not disassemble and reassemble No.1's often, during a trigger install, that requires full disassembly, you will disassemble and assemble many times, because of the interrelationship of the adjustments and because of the way the No.1 is built. The parts have to go back together in a certain order. You can get down to the last part and find that the only way to get the part back in, is to take all of the other parts back out first.

In spite of the anomaly that I had concerning the safety engagement set screw, I still highly recommend the Jard trigger for the Ruger No,1/3. After I finished installation, my trigger pull weight measured 1.75 lbs., exactly as advertised. Before I hunt, I may bump the WOP up a tad, but I will shoot it at the range as it is. RJ


 

Donnieweps

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 20, 2018
Messages
106
You must have some serious machining skills to make a copy at home. Glad you like the Jard.

My No.1 has a great 3# trigger, I'd never consider messing with it. Don
 

RJ556

Buckeye
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
1,070
Location
Focsani, Romania
Donnie, it was really not that difficult putting that trigger together. I just cut a thin piece of metal that would fit in the slots already cut in the factory trigger and sear, epoxied the piece in place with the trigger and sear installed in the receiver. After the epoxy cured, I removed the assembly from the receiver and pinned the parts to make sure they would not move in relation with each other. The only other thing I did was to drill and tap a hole in the front of the trigger for a sear engagement screw.
I had a Moyers trigger in the rifle before, but the pull was not consistent, would sometimes vary a half a pound. RJ
 

markn30135

Single-Sixer
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
196
Location
Georgia
I have replaced mine with triggers from Dave Clements, IMO made all the difference! Good work on the duplication!
 

RJ556

Buckeye
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
1,070
Location
Focsani, Romania
Thanks Mark. While I had it apart I also did a speed hammer mod by drilling the hammer. It weighed 630 grains before drilling. I took it down to 400 grains. I read that you should not go below 325 grains to prevent ignition problems. I have an "extra power" hammer spring on the way from Wolf, to get the advantage of the speed hammer and extra insurance of reliable ignition. It was not difficult drilling the hammer with a solid carbide drill bit. Of course I kept it cool while drilling to prevent altering the hardness of the hammer. This alone, should aid accuracy because the sudden stop of the heavy stock hammer is supposed to be detrimental to accurate shooting of the No.1. RJ
 

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