info on 10 22 triger job

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Randel

Bearcat
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Dec 14, 2009
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25
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Va
thought i saw a post on here that showed how to do your own trigger job,had photos showing where to remove and how much,but can not find it now,thanks in advance
 

wetidlerjr

Single-Sixer
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Dec 17, 2002
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299
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TIPTON IN/USA
The "quick and easy" method is to replace the hammer with a Volquartsen model. I have done that in three 10/22s and there was an immediate, noticeable improvement in the trigger. Many do nothing more than that and it eliminates any chance of the "I went too far and now my 10/22 is full-auto." syndrome. :wink:
 

BlkHawk73

Hunter
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Dec 30, 1999
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4,459
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Maine
Having done a bunch of the 10/22 builds, I've tried a bunch of different routes and have found the good rebuilds better than the DIY drop-in stuff and is not much more money. The end result at least on the ones I've had rebuilt (I use TT Shooter) were better than the $200 Volquartsen assembly.
 

wetidlerjr

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 17, 2002
Messages
299
Location
TIPTON IN/USA
BlkHawk73":3cj0yo9r said:
Having done a bunch of the 10/22 builds, I've tried a bunch of different routes and have found the good rebuilds better than the DIY drop-in stuff and is not much more money. The end result at least on the ones I've had rebuilt (I use TT Shooter) were better than the $200 Volquartsen assembly.

And the Volquartsen hammer is only around $30. :wink:
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
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11,071
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Greenville, SC: USA
I did a hammer and spring replace on my charger with then new plastic trigger group and discovered a problem... when you pulled the trigger with the safety on as is normal nothing happened but when you pushed the safety off the hammer would fall and gun would go BANG. I don't know if this was just specific with my plastic trigger group charger, never had this problem with the metal trigger groups on my other 3 10/22s, but I would be cautious and check this for sure if you do the replacement on a newer plastic trigger grip... it has to do with the play between the safety and the sear in the group.
 
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MANSFIELD, OHIO USA
wetidlerjr":o78dru02 said:
The "quick and easy" method is to replace the hammer with a Volquartsen model. I have done that in three 10/22s and there was an immediate, noticeable improvement in the trigger. Many do nothing more than that and it eliminates any chance of the "I went too far and now my 10/22 is full-auto." syndrome. :wink:

+1! I,ve done the hammer replacement on three of mine also!
Very happy with the results.
Terry
 

Randel

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
25
Location
Va
put the vq hammer and spring in over the weekend and it is much better,might try to polish the old one and see what kind of job i get!
thanks for all the info
 

wetidlerjr

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 17, 2002
Messages
299
Location
TIPTON IN/USA
blume357":ee5hxhz9 said:
I did a hammer and spring replace on my charger with then new plastic trigger group and discovered a problem... when you pulled the trigger with the safety on as is normal nothing happened but when you pushed the safety off the hammer would fall and gun would go BANG. I don't know if this was just specific with my plastic trigger group charger, never had this problem with the metal trigger groups on my other 3 10/22s, but I would be cautious and check this for sure if you do the replacement on a newer plastic trigger grip... it has to do with the play between the safety and the sear in the group.

I put the Volquartsen hammer in my polymer group Charger and it operated correctly, just like the metal groups. :wink:
 

BlkHawk73

Hunter
Joined
Dec 30, 1999
Messages
4,459
Location
Maine
wetidlerjr":21zc0x98 said:
BlkHawk73":21zc0x98 said:
Having done a bunch of the 10/22 builds, I've tried a bunch of different routes and have found the good rebuilds better than the DIY drop-in stuff and is not much more money. The end result at least on the ones I've had rebuilt (I use TT Shooter) were better than the $200 Volquartsen assembly.

And the Volquartsen hammer is only around $30. :wink:

And you get what you pay for. :wink: When his rework along with a couple other reworks are high rated than the Volquartsen assembly that kinda says something. The Vol assembly uses the same parts as they sell seperately sooo... I've tried the Vol drop in stuff and hated 'em. $30, $50, $90...I'll spend more and get the MUCH better end result. Then again, I'll spend $200 for a Jard and $300 for a Kidd...You get what you pay for.
 

wetidlerjr

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 17, 2002
Messages
299
Location
TIPTON IN/USA
BlkHawk73":v76jx5f5 said:
wetidlerjr":v76jx5f5 said:
BlkHawk73":v76jx5f5 said:
Having done a bunch of the 10/22 builds, I've tried a bunch of different routes and have found the good rebuilds better than the DIY drop-in stuff and is not much more money. The end result at least on the ones I've had rebuilt (I use TT Shooter) were better than the $200 Volquartsen assembly.

And the Volquartsen hammer is only around $30. :wink:

And you get what you pay for. :wink: When his rework along with a couple other reworks are high rated than the Volquartsen assembly that kinda says something. The Vol assembly uses the same parts as they sell seperately sooo... I've tried the Vol drop in stuff and hated 'em. $30, $50, $90...I'll spend more and get the MUCH better end result. Then again, I'll spend $200 for a Jard and $300 for a Kidd...You get what you pay for.

And I got what I paid for. Every MUCH better penny ! Thanks for your concern, though.
grinning-smiley-003-1.gif
 

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