I'm starting to feel like a full time mechanic!

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Joined
Dec 4, 2023
Messages
119
Location
Virginia
I started out the week by putting a used rear tire on my old Allis Chalmers 190 that has been sitting in a field with a flat since spring. It took until now to find a tire, then a couple of friends helped me put it on. It's a 34" diameter rim, with an 18.4" wide tire, so it was a bit of a handful, but went well.

After that, I started working on a slow starter on a 1995 F350 I just got. After cleaning all the battery and cable connections, as well as trying another battery, I ordered a new starter from a local Advance Auto store. I also order new tie rods, and a drag link from Rockauto since the front end is a bit loose.

Thursday, I was running around doing errands in my 02 Ranger, which included picking up the new starter. After that, I stopped at Tractor Supply for some bolts. When I got in the truck to leave, the engine wouldn't crank when I turned the key. Tried it a couple of times, and realized the ignition key wasn't actually turning anything. I eventually found out the lock cylinder had sheared in two inside the steering column!

Called a tow truck, and after a 90 minute wait he showed up to get the truck and I home. Since the steering wheel was locked in a partial turn, he had to winch the front end sideways to get it in the rollback. In the process of doing that, he snagged my left front tire and ripped out the sidewall on one of the tires I had replaced in July. To compensate me, he did the $100 tow for free, plus gave me $70 in cash.

Friday, I ordered a replacement tire at Walmart, which thankfully is only $107, pulled the ignition lock out and drove into a local locksmith. He had a new one, and was able to re-pin it to use my original keys. There is an anti-theft chip in each key, so that saved a lot of headaches. He also gave me some tips on how to remove the broken end of the switch that was still lodged in the steering column. I wasn't having any luck until this morning, when I drilled a hole in the broken piece, threaded in a sheet metal screw and was able to extract it. Popped the new lock in, and she's good as new! The new lock was $67, so other than my time, this whole mess only cost me $4.00!

I was encouraged by that success, so my buddy and I got the starter and tie rods done on the F350 this afternoon! I still need to work on a sticking rear brake, and chase down an intermittent check engine light, but it's usable as it is.
 
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I feel your pain. Lots of broken stuff around here. With less success stories.

Sticking rear brake can be caused by a seized e brake cable. Somewhere between released and engaged. Lets it roll but will lock up intermittently. Good luck.
 
I am a pro but the two engines I did in three days on 2024 Sierras still feels like a miracle to me. They pay 19.8 hours each.



Speaking of the wrecker incident ... modern GM trucks with electronic gear shifters can't be put in neutral unless the engine is running. If the engine won't start, no neutral. Can't pull the driveshaft and tow by the front because the wheel speed sensors see movement and the electric park brake engages.
 
Not quite as overwhelming as your experience, but I have been doing a lot more mechanic work lately than I have in a long time. I got so tired of working on my 1995 Ford F-150 that I traded it off. I took my car in last week for an oil change and they told me it is time to replace the front brake pads. They want over $400 for the job, which included only turning the rotors! I guess I will have to do it myself.
 
Only turning the rotors is a lot more work than only replacing the rotors. Aftermarket rotors are fine quality and 1/4 the price at the dealer. I support dealers obviously being an employee but some things are just fine done aftermarket.

Do it yourself with all new parts and save $150. If your time is worth more, pay them to do it.

No way we're doing a brake job here for only $400.
 
AHH!!!!! The rural life we 'enjoy'??????????????
We've got about 10 acres of double crop soybeans that are ready to harvest but the combine blew a water pump seal during the final hour of spring planted soybean harvest and parts haven't arrived yet. My old farm pickup only has 3 brakes and I can't find a wide enough window of time to take it apart to make repairs. The 'handicap' ramp from back deck to the new garage/shop/shed that Grouch Attack demands needs to be built.
Darned near everything I have to do requires two pairs of hands and I can't even manage one good pair most days.
On the other hand: The soybean sales checks have started coming in. An excavator is coming next week to clean up some storm damaged trees that are threatening one of our equipment storage buildings. I got my 'deer loading winch/ramp' completed and ready to use. AND DEER SEASON IS 3 WEEKS AWAY.
 
Only turning the rotors is a lot more work than only replacing the rotors. Aftermarket rotors are fine quality and 1/4 the price at the dealer. I support dealers obviously being an employee but some things are just fine done aftermarket.

Do it yourself with all new parts and save $150. If your time is worth more, pay them to do it.

No way we're doing a brake job here for only $400.
So true. One thing I might add and that is spend the $$ to get QUALITY rotors. Go cheap and you just may be doing another job way earlier than ou expect. If you have ever experienced a warped rotor you will know what I mean.
 
I was a rural letter carrier for the USPS for 32 years, and the first five, and last seven years of that I used my own vehicles. for my 2015 wrangler, I'd carry front and rear brake pads in the vehicle. I only got 15-20,000 miles out of a set on either end, if I didn't catch it during other maintenance, I'd run them until I heard one start grinding metal to metal. I'd find a place to pull over, pop the wheel off, and stuff new $20 pads in the worn out corner. I got to where I could do it in about 10 minutes. Hardly a proper brake job, but at 3 sets on each end a year, it saved me loads of money compared to coworkers who would run to their mechanic and shell out $3-400 each time!

I've found that on high use vehicles, I can run 2-3 sets of pads before replacing the rotors, as long as the same type of pads are used. Putting a different brand or compound in, always lead to grabby, noisy, or poorly working brakes!
 
I do tend to get myself into all this work! :)
I have a 1999 F550 that I bought in the spring. I took the work/tool box body off, and once I get the rusty frame cleaned up and treated, I have a dump flat bed that I'm putting on. It also has rusted up non-working parking brakes that need fixed, and either a hub bearing or ball joint up front. Then I can get to the little stuff like engine oil leaks, shocks etc. Lol.

After that one, I also picked up and old farm beater 1983 F250 with a dump bed. I bought it with the intention of pulling the dump parts and bed, and putting them on the 550. Once I got a good deal on a whole other bed, I decided to start using it around the farm.

It needs:
The fuel tank removed and cleaned.
New fuel filter.
New or rebuilt carburetor.
Parking brakes fixed.
New front brake lines.
Clutch return spring fixed.
 
I feel your pain. Lots of broken stuff around here. With less success stories.

Sticking rear brake can be caused by a seized e brake cable. Somewhere between released and engaged. Lets it roll but will lock up intermittently. Good luck.
Hmmm, I'll have to look at that. The parking brake seems to work, but once it releases, the right rear drum brake will sometimes not release after a stop, or grab at random times. I figure I'll pull the drum {which I'm dreading} and have a looksy. I was thinking broken shoe, or broken/missing hardware on the shoes. If it is just something with the brake cable, that would be nice.

Since I retired last year, I honestly don't know how I ever had time for work! LOL!
 
As I started reading this about the tractor, I thought; "You own a tractor and you are just now feeling like a mechanic?"
😳😄😄
Heck, I thought you had to be a mechanic to even think of owning a tractor.

But as noted, " the rural life "!!
Trust me when I say I feel your pain.
 
Only turning the rotors is a lot more work than only replacing the rotors. Aftermarket rotors are fine quality and 1/4 the price at the dealer. I support dealers obviously being an employee but some things are just fine done aftermarket.

Do it yourself with all new parts and save $150. If your time is worth more, pay them to do it.

No way we're doing a brake job here for only $400.
My first car was a MG. (1966 bought used) Took it to the mechanic for a front break jog. He say me watching him. He made the process look much more involved than what it was. After that I did my own.
 
I just bought an 05 Envoy and now that the "shine" is wearing off, I'm finding little things that I didn't notice. Mostly minor.
The rear speakers don't work.
The fronts sound kind of scratchy, but my hearing isn't the best so it might be me.
The heater control bulbs are blown on one side.
I want to add on a backup camera. To me they are indispensable.
The stepper motor in the oil pressure gauge is bad so it's reading about 250psi with the engine off. I thought it was a bad sender when I noticed it (running).
I don't want to tear the inst. cluster out but the pressure gauge and heater lights bug me.
It has the Atlas 4.2L DOHC I6, I hear they are great engines.
No body rust. Just stone chips and nicks from highway driving.
I'm thinking of the camera first, then the speakers, and dash and cluster last.
Then I'll probably start cleaning up the body paint.
It's a nice truck that drives and runs like new, with 4 new Mastercraft M/S tires on it.
Wish I had a garage to work on it though.
 
Not quite as overwhelming as your experience, but I have been doing a lot more mechanic work lately than I have in a long time. I got so tired of working on my 1995 Ford F-150 that I traded it off. I took my car in last week for an oil change and they told me it is time to replace the front brake pads. They want over $400 for the job, which included only turning the rotors! I guess I will have to do it myself.
The trouble with turning the rotors is that it's cheaper than replacing them, you are removing metal that absorbs heat, and run hotter.
If you can find a shop that still cuts them, you can save a few $$ but there is a trade-off.
 
Complain, complain, complain. I do this stuff for entertainment. But, I admit there are a few things I won't do these days. But only because my body rebels.
I am there...I have always done brakes, oil changes, clutches and such but now that I am two months from 70 I just don't feel like it any more.
A few months ago I took my ford in for an oil change and full brake job, including rotors.

However, today, I got a wild hair and changed the oil in my Motor Home and 2013 Tahoe. After that checked the vitals on two other vehicles and topped things off. Now I am beat and my back hurts! But I'm happy to have done it!
 
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