How to repair rusted OM BKH cylinder?

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22bond

Single-Sixer
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Aug 21, 2009
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118
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Texas
Is it good enough to try and sand out the rust?
Are the rusted area going to affect lockup/timing?
Do I need to get a gunsmith to verify that it is safe to use?

I could send it back to Ruger for repair but it is an OM w/no conversion done. I don't want the conversion to be done and I am not good at taking apart the pistol to save the original parts - never done a detail disassembly on any pistol.

OMrustedcylinderSmall.jpg
 

J Miller

Blackhawk
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Sep 30, 2000
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Not in IL anymore ... :)
A good gunsmith can make that cylinder look good again.

IF the chambers are OK. If the chambers are rusted then that could spell the end of that cylinder.

Joe
 

flatheadsal

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Mar 15, 2008
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florida
hey 22bond, got a picture of the rest of that OM? would be curious to see, being the cyl is that rusted, flathead
 

george preston

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Aug 22, 2008
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Jacksonville, Florida
Assuming its all cosmetic, I'd go with Rem oil, 000 steal wool, and a lot of elbow grease. Finish is probably shot but could be refinished. Pitting might be a little deep too. Hard to tell until you get the cancer off.
 

Enigma

Hunter
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I have seen cylinders with comparable pitting resurfaced to look very presentable. The problem will be 1) finding the right man for the job, and 2) being able to afford it.
 

22bond

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thanks for all the info.

Enigma, on those that you have seen resurfaced, was the value affected?
 
Joined
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22bond, need a few more pictures, front ,back, as well as the chambers...we have done a few of them much 'worse' than your and they came out really nice, its the chambers one has to worry about,both front and rear at the mouth area............
 

22bond

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sdoyl123":90ol7v1o said:
Just curious, was this the Blackhawk from an estate sale? I saw that for $289 and was tempted.

I hope not because I paid a lot more for it than I should have.
It is from a 357/9mm 4 5/8 OM blackhawk.
And it is the 9mm cylinder that is rusted.
It even has the red bag w/the rust spots.
 

22bond

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rugerguy":d98p55yx said:
you can send me the pictures , direct to my e-mail.........put a couple on here, I love to "see the befores & afters..." :wink:

Here is a couple more photo. The original photo from seller actually looks better than mine.
Will email you the rest

IMG_9412Small.jpg

IMG_9414Small.jpg
 

Driftwood Johnson

Blackhawk
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Sep 25, 2007
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Land of the Pilgrims
Howdy

Go with 0000 steel wool, not 000. And any light oil, Rem oil is fine. You want to just brush away the powdery reddish part of the rust. The harder you bear down, the more of the blue you will remove, so go easy to start. Remove the powdery stuff and see what the situation is under it.

For what it's worth, I have many old revolvers, some of them 70 or 80 years old. Some of them have some rust on them, being so old. Unless the rust is really bad, it probably will not affect the strength of the cylinder, particularly since that looks like a 357 Mag cylinder. Lots of steel surrounding the chambers. Be sure the rust does not interfere with the mechanical operation of the gun though. Particularly around the locking slots. It looks like you have some rust in that vicinity. Typically rust will 'bubble up' expanding the dimensions of the metal. If it has bubbled up enough to interfere with the bolt slipping properly in the locking slots, that can present a problem. Then it's time for some very careful rust removal, or the services of a gunsmith if you don't feel capable of doing it yourself.
 

22bond

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Aug 21, 2009
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It is a 9mm. Yes, I am worry about the rust on "locking" slot.
Will give the 0000 a try. Was going to get some at Walmart but they come in a big pack.
Plan on just cleaning as much as I can and just shoot it.
Will the rust somehow get on the gun and cause the gun to rust too?
 

Driftwood Johnson

Blackhawk
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Sep 25, 2007
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699
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Land of the Pilgrims
Howdy Again

Well, rust is nothing more than oxidation of the steel. It happens when atmospheric oxygen interacts with iron or steel, forming iron oxide. Iron oxide is a more stable compound than manufactured steel and the steel always 'wants' to return to the more stable stable condition of an oxide. Most steels will oxidize if left unprotected. In fact, that is the primary purpose of gun blue, to protect the surface of the steel from oxidation. Gun blue is in fact a type of oxidation. One of the characterizations of oxidation on the surface of steel is it can be manipulated to prevent further oxidation. A surface treatment like gun blue cuts off the body of the steel from atmospheric oxygen, preventing further oxidation. Coating steel with oil will do the same.

The short answer is, if the rusted surface of the cylinder is in physical contact with the rest of the gun, yes, it will probably transfer to that spot. But more importantly, the rest of the gun will rust all by itself if it is left unprotected. Get yourself a silicone cloth and wipe down the gun when you put it away to remove finger oils, as they contain salts which can start the oxidation process.

In truth, Ruger's gun blue is a very robust surface treatment, and unless you live in a very humid environment, the rest of the gun will probably be fine with just a periodic wipe down with a silicone cloth. Your cylinder was probably stored for a long time in a damp environment to get such bad rust on it.
 
Joined
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Well 22bond, we got your cylinder to the "halfway" point and yes, it was beyond any simple wipe & polish......but it will be just fine..........



22bondscyl9mmmidway.jpg





I was teaching the 'Little Ruger Dude just how to draw file today.... :roll:
 

Allen207

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Sep 7, 2009
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New mexico
Ah good, a happy ending. I love to see old things put right. Reminds me, I should get my hip fixed one of these days.
 
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