Homebrew holsters...comments?

[JimMarch1]

As most know I'm a die-hard wheelgunner. But I made a holster for a friend's slidegun of a new holster design I've been working on.

It's a high-ride crossdraw with an unusual system of "grabbing" the belt and applying positive tension to it - adjustable tension at that. Comments welcome; I'm particularly curious to know if any other holsters are shipping that are this radically high, esp. with a relatively heavy gun like this full-size Ruger P85-Mk2.

If it's not clear yet, this can be put on and taken off without taking the belt off. The tapered cross-strap is tapered to resist slipping backwards out of the double-ring buckle.

The concho is at present a silver eagle in profile. It's purely cosmetic, screw-in and replaceable.

In some ways this rig is built like an "old west" setup, in that the leather isn't wet-molded to the gun. It's a bit like an old Threepersons setup, yet is very close-fitting in the modern "high and tight" style except...well, tighter . It also adapts instantly to multiple belt widths. The tension across the body from the strap through the buckle also helps hold the gun plenty tight enough.

This is the third and latest one I've done of this general type, and I think it's the best. Others:

The one for my Ruger NewVaq was set up so I could choose between strongside forward-tilt or crossdraw as shown. The two diamond conchos are two possible locations for the lower cross-strap - choosing between them (with a screwdriver changeover) selects the "tilt angle". Crossdraw turns out to be MUCH better when you go this high.

How can I do this better? Is anybody doing anything professionally quite like this?

 

[contender]

I think they look great. I want to try & do something like that for myself! I want one for a 4-5/8" 44 spl Lipsey's model!

 

[JWhitmore44]

Interesting design and I like how you use the double layer at the mouth of the holster (i assume) to keep the holster open for re-holstering.

It looks like some of your stitching goes through to the inside of the holster. If the leather isn't grooved, or there is no lining covering the stitching I would be a little concerned about the stitching being worn from holstering the gun. Your stitching may become frayed sooner.

Does the para-cord (that wraps behind your belt) stabilize the holster well? Do you have to keep snugging the holster back down?

I like the option of being able to carry strong side or cross draw. I find I like to carry cross draw as it is in a better position for getting in and out (or on and off) your vehicle. Or if you want to set on a log or a rock and eat your lunch Strong side high and tight conceals better (for me).

 

[JimMarch1]

It looks like some of your stitching goes through to the inside of the holster. If the leather isn't grooved, or there is no lining covering the stitching I would be a little concerned about the stitching being worn from holstering the gun. Your stitching may become frayed sooner.

Well...yeah, I thought about that. But as I hand-stitch, I'm cranking HARD on those stitches in particular, driving 'em up pretty hard into the relatively soft veg-died leather. So from the inside, it feels pretty smooth. I've been watching for signs of wear on mine (the oldest) with no issues so far.

Does the para-cord (that wraps behind your belt) stabilize the holster well? Do you have to keep snugging the holster back down?

No, not once I switched to the tapered strap through the buckle. That eliminated "slow pulling". So once it's on there, it's done!

Once you go THIS high, strongside starts to run into problems. It's just too high if it's exactly on the side. It works somewhat well if you roll it back to around the kidney area, but then open carry is unsafe and off-hand-access is impossible.

 

[nn]

Nice holsters.

 

[btrumanj]

Nice work Jim. I like 'Em