Help Insane single six locking up

[tommyt]

New Model Single Six

I've have this 22 for some time and took it apart a few times to fully clean and lastly to use the screws form it to fix my Seville
The Problem is when its all back together all things looks and seem
Fine and working order
I Install the Cylinder and NO MORE Working gun
IT IS locked I take the cylinder out the Pawl ,lock bolt all seem to function just fine Put the cylinder back Nothing moves
I did pit the rod back in and made sure it was all the way into the cylinder but somethings wrong
I am going to pull it down again
But I feel it maybe a little Ruger flaw or trick
I don't know of
Please advise
Thanks
tommyt

 

[Pete]

Make sure that the plunger at the rear of the base pin is actually pushing the transfer bar out away from the firing pin.If not the transfer bar may be stopping on the firing pin.

 

[tommyt]

plunger at the rear of the base pin

This is what has been on my Mind that little pin
Now can you tell me, is that adjustable ?
after that statement I just made, Why or how would the Cylinder
Hold the Pin out, although if it isn't in I no I can't
Cycle the gun ? I seem right there, as in Finished! BUT NOT...
This puzzles me truly does
Tommyt

 

[Pete]

That plunger is spring loaded ,not adjustable and keeps the transfer bar from making contact with the firing pin as the hammer is drawn back. If the pin does not push the transfer bar back the bar will hit the under side of the firing pin and stop hammer movement.
Place the cylinder back in the gun and point the muzzle straight up,then try to cycle the gun .With the muzzle up gravity should allow the transfer bar to fall back away from the firing pin,if indeed that is the problem.You could even pull the transfer bar back as it rises to the firing pin and see if the gun then"un-locks"

 

[flatgate]

Put the cylinder back Nothing moves

If that is what is going on then your pawl is trying to rotate the cylinder before the cylinder latch drops.

Shortening the upper tooth of the pawl is the solution to that problem.... if indeed that is exactly what is happening.

A transfer bar hanging up on the firing pin usually occurs after the hammer is pulled back a bit.

How do I know these things?

flatgate

 

[tek4260]

Thats a strange one especially if it worked before you took it appart. Is the plunger still in the hammer?

 

[tommyt]

Pete
.With the muzzle up gravity should allow the transfer bar to fall back away from the firing pin,if indeed that is the problem.You could even pull the transfer bar back as it rises to the firing pin and see if the gun then"un-locks"
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OK tried this and Nothing while is was pointing up I even Knocked the butt on my
Mouse Pad so too help Gravity and still nothing

flatgate
if indeed that is exactly what is happening.
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Well to make that Clearer !! the hammer will draw maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch back but then I am Pressing it
flatgate
If that is what is going on then your pawl is trying to rotate the cylinder before the cylinder latch drops.
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OK that makes sense, But would that stay the same, when I make this Statement?
If I open the gate the Cylinder rotates and the hammer will draw back the same amount as I said above
Now let me ASK
Can I depress the Pawl Spring squeeze it some
I think Maybe JUST maybe I stretched it some to Help it ( I know I did )

tek4260

Thats a strange one especially if it worked before you took it appart. Is the plunger still in the hammer?
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I'm with you other than me pulling on the Pawl spring some(dam it) while I had it apart
This six gun was like New almost had that New car smell

Tommyt
Practicing Gun destruction one at a time

 

[tek4260]

I'd recommend tearing it back down and reassembling it making sure the springs and plungers are in correctly. Stretching the pawl spring cannot be reversed, but it shouldn't make a difference unless you stretched it to the extreme. It is going to be something simple.

 

[flatgate]

Ya gotta love internet gunsmithing...........

Hammer moves a bit then stops? That's a very strong clue that the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin.

OK, one question..... How's the gun work with the cylinder removed but the base pin FULLY INSERTED? This test will eliminate any sort of "timing" issue.

Another Test: Tear down Single-Six. Reassemble without the transfer bar. Cycle Lockwork with the cylinder in place.

flatgate

 

[Hairy Clipper]

I might be all wet here, perhaps flatgate can confirm this, would the loading gate spring installed incorrectly cause this also?

 

[flatgate]

Perhaps, however it would most likely be noticed upon any attempt to install the cylinder and close the gate...

flatgate

 

[Pinecone]

tommyt, I would take a real good look at Hairy Clipper's suggestion of an improperly installed or defective loading gate "spring". How did the revolver act with flatgate's suggestion of trying the gun without the cylinder installed but the base pin fully installed? Your gun is "acting" just like it should with the loading gate "open", when it is closed! That would be the area I would look at real close. If push comes to shove, you should take it to a local "competent" gunsmith to let him have a "hands-on" approach. Internet smithing' goes only so far!............................Dick :wink:

 

[tommyt]

Read on also, I want to say you are right on this and I can't say Thanks enough but Please don't stop smiting in the word NO
but this little Tweaking Yes with your help and Others we all can make things work with a Little time and Patience
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Ya gotta love internet gunsmithing...........

Hammer moves a bit then stops? That's a very strong clue that the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin.

OK, one question..... How's the gun work with the cylinder removed but the base pin FULLY INSERTED? This test will eliminate any sort of "timing" issue.

Another Test: Tear down Single-Six. Reassemble without the transfer bar. Cycle Lockwork with the cylinder in place.
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THIS below LOOKs TO BE MY PROBLEM
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If that is what is going on then your pawl is trying to rotate the cylinder before the cylinder latch drops.

Shortening the upper tooth of the pawl is the solution to that problem.... if indeed that is exactly what is happening.

A transfer bar hanging up on the firing pin usually occurs after the hammer is pulled back a bit

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OK what I did with Cylinder in the Gun,I opened the Gate and turned the Cylinder so it was not engaged in the bolt lock I gently closed the Gate and Pulled the Hammer back The gun went to Full Cock the Cylinder and Pawl Meshed as they should...... hhhmmmm
SO what does it tell me ??
Internet Smiting is Possible SO thanks and keep it coming Please
IT tells me, too fully understand the Timing being Out,and remove all doubt of other things, I upon rebuild with Spring tension lessoned will pray it
Works if not the Transfer bar on the next take down ,If NOT I'll touch up the Pawl a bit at a time till I win
I may do the transfer bar remove first I'll play it as I see it

Thanks
Ray Charles

 

[tommyt]

what I think is happening is the Locking bolt will not drop and the cause's
the whole gun to lock or stay locked so a call to Ruger
I think the pin on the Hammer cam might have gotten bent although I don't see that ,But if its supposed to help the bolt drop
Its not doing it it Bust misses and I mean Just
If its not supposed I need to know what makes it Drop

Tommyt

 

[tommyt]

I figured it out Called Ruger and they agreed
the pin on the hammer had gotten bent during all the
times I took it apart
I new there was something holding the bolt from dropping
as I pulled on the hammer
Well they are sending me that pin the spring and the roll pin to hold it
in Place
SO I figured why not try and remove it straighten it
work or not I have a new one in the Mail,
BINGO I did it the gun is now working like a champ
Thanks Folks

Tommyt

I also eliminated the bolt lock spring replaced it
with a flat one ,same one used in Colt and Seville's ,so no when putting it back together I don't need worry about it staying put or dropping out
I think Ruger should use my Idea :00 if you want to try and don't under stand ,PM or post and I'll explain it better

 

[J Miller]

Replacing the coil spring / plunger cylinder latch spring with a flat Colt type is like, like, why do words escape me when I need them?

Assembling a New Model Ruger is no big deal. You just gotta twist up your mouth just right and do it.

And no I don't think Ruger needs to go back to the past and use an inferior spring set up on their Single actions.

JMHO

Joe

 

[tommyt]

Replacing the coil spring / plunger cylinder latch spring with a flat Colt type

And no I don't think Ruger needs to go back to the past and use an inferior spring set up on their Single actions.

JMHO

Joe

What am I missing here ??

inferior

my Seville also has this spring and the Seville works as smooth as a Sewing machine
Is IMHO twice a Ruger all day long

The spring is simple and Genius I think its not there over patent rights
But that doesn't mean I nor anyone else can't do it as a custom
In fact I am /Did ordering a few more springs for all my Rugers

Tommyt