I don't own a Hawkeye but have a few in the MkII's. I don't think there is a lot of difference between the Hawkeye synthetic and the MkII non-boatpaddle stock which came on my MkII 350 Rem. Mag. I have 2 350's , one walnut and one synthetic. There is a big difference between them in felt recoil and how it recoils. The synthetic obviously kicked harder because it is lighter and I really disliked how it would jump up and smack me in the cheek!! The heavier walnut doesn't behave that way and is way nicer to shoot even with my stout loads. I hated how the synthetic jumped during recoil enough that I put a laminated sporter stock on it. All is good now. On my smaller calibers it isn't an issue and I like the synthetics just fine. I've never had an accuracy issue with the synthetics being warped or anything either.
Don't know if any of that helped answer any of your questions but that is my experience with them.
i bought a brand new synthetic hawkeye take off stock from a guy last year for my boatpaddle .280 Mark II.
that .280 shoots fantastic in it and so far very consistant. i did modify my hawkeye stock though as i loathe that hollow sound/feel of the synthetic stocks so i filled mine with expandable foam. i really like the results.
Interesting idea with the foam. I have 3 MKII synthetic rifles (not the boat paddle style) that I wouldn't mind doing something like that with. How much weight did it add to the rifle? Part of the reason I buy synthetic, besides not worrying so much about dinging them up, is weight. Anyone else done this and what is you experience with weight, felt recoil, etc.
the felt recoil was interesting, it felt differant after i was done. not as sharp if you will and here's how i think it was changed. once the foam is in and expanded, the foam helps distribute the recoil more uniformily to the recoil pad and throughout the entire surface area of the pad. before the modification all the recoil came to the pad through the side walls of the stock only. so when transfered to the pad it was transfered through the outside perimeter only first and hast to midigate through out the pad as it goes to your shoulder. this may sound far fetch to some but i'm telling you the felt recoil after it was done seemed less sharp, more evenly distributed throughout the whole surface area of the pad.
no the cavity is only in the butt of the stock down to the start of the pistol grip area which is solid. i would say it added 4-6 oz. i can't remember exactly how much though. enough that you notice it but not enough to cause you to rethink doing it. as you can see i also cut the LOP to fit my smaller frame better. by waiting to cut the stock until after the foam was cured the stock gave a clean chip free cut, another bonus.
a issue i didn't think about until after i had cut the stock back.
with my stock i removed right at 1/2" or a wisker less, i had to lightly sand the factory pad profile to match up with the new stock profile. if i had access to the right tool i needed i would have cut the recess back into the stock for the mounting screws, instead i was able to trim back the pad at that area, and then cut away a bit of the expandable foam to recieve the portion of the pad that projects into the stock cavity.
i made a shim or two that held the stock in the proper position in my chop saw and i used a veneer blade to make the cut and made sure to go slow. it cut it like butter with no issue.
i'll have to see if i have the old can laying down there. i thought it was Tough Stuff or something like that, i do know there are differant densities of the expandable foam stuff and i used one that was a tad denser, also you need to put it in steps or you could get a pocket of it that does not expand and cure correctly. please note, this stuff can be messy! i taped the outside of the stock for about 2" then slit the bottom of a plastic bag and slid ovet the end of the stock about 1/2" down from the end and taped around the edge back onto the taped region i put there first.