Have you ever blown a gun apart by shooting a reduce load in it?

I would caution against would be taking the powders not listed in the magnum loads and try and go into magnum territorys with them.
I agree. Obviously there is some common sense involved :) . Again research the powder and see how used even in other cartridges to get a 'feel' for it.
 
I agree. Obviously there is some common sense involved :) . Again research the powder and see how used even in other cartridges to get a 'feel' for it.
Need to be sure that the powder is suited for the pressures one is trying to obtain. There is a good reason that most of the 38 special powders are not used in 357 magnums and vise versa.
 
"for a reason"...
And that being that powders used in the 38 special are developed to burn effectively at a lower pressure than the 357 magnum's pressure. And if used in the 357 magnum cases at higher pressures the powders burn rate would increase dramatically spiking to the point of detonation. Not good.
 
There is a good reason that most of the 38 special powders are not used in 357 magnums and vise versa.
The only 'reason' most .38 powders aren't in .357 magnum section, is the author 'assumes' you want to shoot magnum velocity loads. Period. Otherwise, there would a great many more powders listed for given scenerios. That is why you have to go to the .38 Special section for non-magnum loads to shoot in a .357 case. Note that slow powders are way better to reach magnum level velocities if that is what you are looking for. As a reloader, the .357 cartridge can be loaded from mild to wild all in the same cartridge. No need to 'over' think this. Use the powder appropriate for the job at hand. Why we have fast, medium, and slow powders :) . I've settled on 158gr SWC loads in the 1000fps to 11000fps range (as measured over a chronograph) for my .357s. So slow powders are 'out', medium powders are 'in'. Have developed a lot of different loads over the years.

if used in the 357 magnum cases at higher pressures the powders burn rate would increase dramatically spiking to the point of detonation.
Of course pressures would increase. Never use a fast powder to try to get to magnum velocities. But you certainly can get to 800fps with a fast powder in a .357 magnum case. All about research and knowing when and why to use different powders (if that is of interest). If don't care for research, just follow a given load recipe and be happy :) .
 
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Back when I shot a lot of steel, shooters were making very light loads to keep the muzzle down for fast recovery times. The problem was the cycle time was also reduced so they went to lightening their slides to compensate or used commander slides, THEN lightened the Commander slide :) After that some even added compensators which needed more powder to work. It was a vicious cycle.

As a gamesman in it for the money, in local revolver neutral carry matches I personally shot a snubby S&W 66 with .38 125 and 158 grain loads so light they'd barely make it through the cardboard targets but I won a fair amount of money. I was once filmed (VHS) and it was comical.. pop, pop, pop, pop... I didn't even need hearing protection! They tried to ban me but they didn't want to mandate a power floor because smaller calibers like .380 were encouraged.

Anyway I've seen and used many thousands of rounds shot with reduced powder puff charges and never saw or had a K'boom.
 
PS, I have to add to my post above. You may ask, how light were my .38 loads? They were so light that if I did not scrub and lube my barrel the bullet would stick in the snubby bore! It can't get lighter than that!
 
This is what is called a squib load. There is no powder in the catridge. The primer explodes to push the bullet up the barrel. A noticeable sound is heard. If another round is fired, the bullet smashes into the first trapped bullet damaging the barrel.
 
I think there's more chance to lodge a bullet in the barrel of a revolver than semi-auto. If you're working your way down below book minimum a semi-auto would probably fail to eject/function slide well before you get into squib territory, at least with stock springs. I'm also looking at velocities over the chrony and avoiding going below 650fps. As far as double ignition due to low powder volume, I just can't see how that's possible with modern propellants.
 
I think there's more chance to lodge a bullet in the barrel of a revolver than semi-auto. If you're working your way down below book minimum a semi-auto would probably fail to eject/function slide well before you get into squib territory, at least with stock springs. I'm also looking at velocities over the chrony and avoiding going below 650fps.
Good note, if they are making light loads on purpose. But as for any accidental light charges they'll be totally non-discriminant.
 
I like to go light as possible with stock springs just for fun, so I was also interested in this topic when daring to go below book minimum in my .45acp 1911's. Below are examples of loads where I stopped because velocity was as low as I wanted or cases were falling fairly close by. I had good success w/w-231 and Unique. When I tried to go below book min with HS-6 I got erratic velocity so I x'd it out as a candidate for "powder puff" loads.

230gr RN Plated
4.4gr Unique
1.233 OAL
680fps Spg Range Officer
ES 57 SD 24

230gr RN Plated
4.4gr Unique
1.233 OAL
625fps SR Lt Wt CMD
ES 57 SD 23
 
I acquired a new 6 inch Python shot 1 time no top strap 3 chambers GONE. I disassembled and removed the rounds from the 3 remaining and dismantled them,,,They averaged IIRC under 7.4 gr of 296 or H-110 essentially the same anyway...a drastic undercharge...Is that what caused it?...if detonation I doubt it can be done under controlled conditions. That gun was brand new. With a new cylinder and a top strap it could have been fired I made a shadow box for it put it on the wall A customer bought it for parts
 
Recently I read an article in the July 2025 "Shooting Times" by Dave Emory (retired ballistician for Hornady) concerning a 45 70 case that blew out damaging the firearm and severely injuring the shooter/reloader's hand. Seems he consulted collogues in the industry in this matter. What was brought out was, the load data folks pay attention to not only max load pressures but also starting load pressures. The gist of the article was a starting load should adhere to the recommendations of starting load of the loading manuals. His advice was a cartridge that doesn't have enough energy to push the bullet down the barrel far enough can generate high pressure in the case if the bullet stops in the lead of the bore. If it results in flattened primers that is a clue that there is not enough powder in the loads. In conclusion Emory suspects in addition of the high pressure generated by the plugged bore near the chamber the cartridge case also had an inclusion that weakened the case near the head.
I have a good friend who collects antique lever action rifles and has experienced flattened primers in his below recommended starting loads. I scanned the article without comment and emailed it to him.
 
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