Has anyone removed the lock from a LCR??

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flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Of course, a discussion centered on "safety removal" must be approached very carefully.

I will not participate. I've "messed with" the single action lock and decided the best plan is to ..............

I will agree that the "lock" is so simple and it must be darn near foolproof....

JMHO,

flatgate
 

BlkHawk73

Hunter
Joined
Dec 30, 1999
Messages
4,376
If one is THAT concerned about their defensive firearm being possibly not 110% reliable, it's time to get a different one.

Foresight is sometime sWAY better than hindsight. :lol:
 

Rob72

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
93
Cut a new mainspring seat from a piece of 1/8" 1015 bar stock (basically replacing the upper portion of the lock-block with the tapered edges. Torch harden.

If you use the lock as a template, you still have it available.

With the SBH you can switch to the pre-lock length rod, spring & seat, but the LCR doesn't seem to have a precedent, unfortunately.
 

Magnumite

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
12
I took the grips off my LCR and the lock is incorporated into the mainspring seat. You'd have to machine a substitute seat to replace it.
 

Rob72

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
93
OCD":q2t7xpz6 said:
Rob72":q2t7xpz6 said:
If you use the lock as a template, you still have it available.

Thanks, good idea. I will have to look at it some more and see what's involved.
As I mentioned- a (roughly) 1/8" piece of flat bar(Lowes/Home depot), cut to the width of the top of the lock. Drill a hole in the center of the plate for the hammer strut to freely pass (obviously small enough to retain the spring). Polish and chamfer the hole. Use a scribe, and trace the angles where the lock sits against the frame. You can easily make the rough-cut with a Dremel & cut-off wheel, then finish with a hand file. Torch harden or Kasenit, etc.. Machining is nice, but runs $40-60/hour, unless you have your own set up. :wink:
 

Rob72

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
93
I traded off my BH for an Alaskan. :D If you'll measure the top of your lock (front-back, side-side), the height (from the top where the mainspring sits to the bottom of that taper that seats in the frame- as I recall it was about 1/8"...) and the diameter of your mainspring, I'll make one.

Edit to add- please post the measurements or PM me. I'll take pics as it gets cut out.
 

Rob72

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
93
From a liability perspective, the Ruger locks are a beautiful thing. Far less failure prone (to all evidence) than the S&W style, and they are basically an, "inherent piece of the operational mechanism..." Meaning if you remove it, it isn't "accidental", and doing so requires greater than average mechanical ability and intent- clearly Ruger can in no way be responsible. :roll:
 

c.r.

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
436
madd-trapper":o4h9cl94 said:
Why mess with it? Wouldnt this void the warranty?

Ruger does not offer a "Warranty" on their new firearms.

take a peek at the last page of one of your owner's manual. or view it on line at:
http://www.ruger.com/products/_manuals/lcr.pdf

This in no way says (nor am I suggesting) Ruger does not provide excellent customer service and repair. Just no Warranty.

~c.r.
 

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