hard-coated aircraft quality aluminum frame ?

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airwin

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 9, 2001
Messages
88
How durable is the hard-coatig on P-series? Everytime when I´m shooting my KP90 I take special care for not to scratch the frame. Is this necessary? By the way, I have some workhorses too, but for my most important guns I want to take care about to keep them in best condition.

Thanks for answers, airwin
 

JohnKSa

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 19, 2007
Messages
138
Your KP90 is one of your workhorses whether you realize it or not. :D

It's not scratch proof, but it's pretty tough. Aluminum anodizing puts a thick coating of aluminum oxide on the aluminum. Aluminum oxide in crystalline form is what sapphires are made of, they measure a 9 on the MOHS scale with diamonds being the hardest at 10.

Most of the time when anodizing is compromised it's because something damaged the underlying aluminum which is pretty soft. But the coating on the P-Series is thick enough that you'll have a hard time doing that.
 

COFFEE POT

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
54
The 'P' series aluminum frames have a Mil-Spec sulfuric acid hard-coat finish. It's basically the same stuff that is used on the M-16. It has a hardness of approximately Rc65. It's a combination of both penetration and buildup. It is considered an Anodic coating. Along with other compounds, it contains aluminum oxide which is what many grinding wheels are made of. That frame finish is actually harder than the slide. It is not smooth and very abrasive, so adequate lube on the slide rails is nessesary to prevent wear and galling of the slide. A drop of oil won't cut it. Use a grease instead. Moly and Lithium greases are good as well as some others intended for high loading usage.
 

airwin

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 9, 2001
Messages
88
Many thanks to you experts! That´s exact the info I wanted ho "hear". Now I deliberate to pruchase a second one P90 as workhorse. Further on, I fear that Ruger will discontinue the P90 too in future.

airwin
 

P90

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
359
airwin said:
Many thanks to you experts! That´s exact the info I wanted ho "hear". Now I deliberate to pruchase a second one P90 as workhorse. Further on, I fear that Ruger will discontinue the P90 too in future.

airwin
Looks like Ruger is discontinuing it this year.
 

berettapistols

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
655
This is a three year old thread that was stickied for a while..

It's sad to hear that Ruger is doing away with the aluminum framed P Series..
 

gatorhugger

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
525
Just to add to Coffee pot, not only is heavy lube or grease needed on the rails to prevent wear of the slide, the reverse is true as well. The rails themselves will lose that coating if not lubed enough.
As a proponent of the p89 and especially the p93, I have seen this numerous times first hand. It's usually the front two rails that have that oxide coating rub off leaving bare aluminum underneath.
Then you have a steel slide riding on top of softer aluminum.

Probably not a good combination long term though I have yet to have functional problems and I have a couple rails just about rubbed off of coating, and the slide wasn't affected at all.
That is the only drawback to these pistols I have found, and is a big reason the p95 and the like are good, those polymer rails don't hardly wear at all and require no extra attention.
I have both, and just picked up another P95 for this very reason really.
I still love my 93's, but the 95 is rapidly becoming my gun of choice.
 

9isFine

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
97
berettapistols said:
This is a three year old thread that was stickied for a while..

It's sad to hear that Ruger is doing away with the aluminum framed P Series..

(Shaking Fist in Air) "Ruger Gods How hath the forsaken us?! :x
 

ncvikingfan

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
206
COFFEE POT said:
The 'P' series aluminum frames have a Mil-Spec sulfuric acid hard-coat finish. It's basically the same stuff that is used on the M-16. It has a hardness of approximately Rc65. It's a combination of both penetration and buildup. It is considered an Anodic coating. Along with other compounds, it contains aluminum oxide which is what many grinding wheels are made of. That frame finish is actually harder than the slide. It is not smooth and very abrasive, so adequate lube on the slide rails is nessesary to prevent wear and galling of the slide. A drop of oil won't cut it. Use a grease instead. Moly and Lithium greases are good as well as some others intended for high loading usage.

Hey COFFEE POT,

I do not want to divert the thread from the OP's original question. However, it's great to see your name in the posts again. You have always provided expertise and great "inside Ruger" information (that was not proprietary) over the years. I always looked for your commentary during the many months before and after joining the forum. Stop by and comment all that your time allows.

Best regards,
Russell Ham
 

berettapistols

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
655
I have maybe 10 different greases in my stash of stuff, I was a mechanic & been a Gun Guru for many many moons..
I have Militec Grease & Pro Gold but just can't get over the stink that they have, Like 90w gear oil..
I also have & love TW-25B but have found the White Lithium to stay were you put it better than the TW-25B..
I've seen were alot of guys use a synthetic automotive grease that has no smell & might pick up a tub of it for experimentation..
I might also try an find some Moly Grease as that was also suggested by COFFEE POT..

I too miss his great replies to peoples problems with His Years of Inside Information..
 

gatorhugger

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
525
isn't that complicated.
The surface is rather porus so regular oil won't "sit" on top and provide lubrication. So the Aluminum oxide frames absolutely need a grease.
So any grease, Moly, lithium, Anti seize, whatever.
I use this stuff, it's not made anymore, and is 100% teflon, which is about the slickest substance known to man.
Most products that have teflon are about 5% teflon, so it's a superb product by dupont.
But any light grease will do you, don't need coffeepot to tell ya that! 8)

100_0312.jpg
 

toysoldier

Hunter
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
3,261
I snagged a few small containers of a medical lubricant that was used on a surgical instrument that is now obsolete. It's called Chem 8 paste, and described as A superior PTFE lubricating & sealant paste. It was intended to lubricate a stainless steel instrument that would go through the autoclave @ 270F and 30 psi. I don't do a lot of shooting, but it has worked well on my P-90, LCP, and Mk III.
 

edfardos

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
187
I've noticed the rough coating smooths off a bit at first, but then it doesn't really change after 1500 shots or so in my KP944. Let's not forget that aluminum pistons have been sliding along steel engine blocks for quite some time. Galling isn't typically a problem for dis-similar metals. Having said that, I simply use gunoil on the grooves in the slide, and I oil the rails on the frame.

Oh, and in the grease department, checkout CV boot grease in the automotive store. It's a lithium-based soap that wont eat your plastics, plus it's cheap.

--edfardos
 

P90

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
359
JNewell said:
Back to the top with a request for sticky-hood for this one! :!:
I'll second the request and add:
Has anyone had their Frames recoated? If so, with what, and by whom, and how well do you like it?
 

19&41

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
49
I always use this type of grease on slide rails, bolts and bolt carriers. It does not wear off and a thin coat on metal surfaces prone to rust protects them for years. It also comes in a spray which is essentially the same grease in a volatile vehicle. It works well on alloy frame pistols, also.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761&CAWELAID=323881544
 

gatorhugger

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
525
P90 said:
JNewell said:
Back to the top with a request for sticky-hood for this one! :!:
I'll second the request and add:
Has anyone had their Frames recoated? If so, with what, and by whom, and how well do you like it?

I imagine you could duracoat it nicely. Since it's a rougher surface it should "hold" nicely. Any of the them, Brownells, ect.
I did call Ruger one time and ask could it be factory re-anodized to look like new, and was told no.

So back to the original questions I had a good bit of wear on the frame rails, the anodizing was coming off pretty fast when just using oil like Eezox, CLP, but once I switched to a light grease the wear has subsidied I believe.
It's the only guns I even bother to use teflon "grease" on. All my other guns just get oil on the rails.
 

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