Getting into .30-30 Winchester

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Aqualung

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I was recently gifted a Marlin 336C lever rifle from my wife's uncle and just got all the "fixin's" to start loading.

I have Winchester brass (and a few once-fired Remington).

The powders I have on hand for rifle loads are H4895, IMR3031and BLC(2).

The bullets I picked up are the Hornady 160 grain FTX and Sierra 150 grain Flat Point.

I plan on using Winchester primers.

The rifle shoots very well using Remington 150grn factory loadings, so I plan on emulating that performance.

I'm planning on using a Lee Factory Crimp Die to put a heavy crimp to withstand the tubular magazine.

Are there any pitfalls or things to know before I get into loading this cartridge? I'm pretty experienced with .300 Savage, .303 British, 5.56/.223, etc.

Thanks in advance.

Aqualung
 

Cholo

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I havn't loaded the 30-30 in years. I do recall that the shoulders were really easy to dimple if you used more than a tiny amount of lube on the neck. They still shot fine. Remington brass seemed quite thin back in the day. The shoulders were super easy to crush with the RCBS die when crimping. I bought a LEE factory crimp die but never used it.

So, I'd size them then trim to length and forget about them. I used 3031 with nice results. 748 gave higher velocities, but I never felt the need for it. FWIW: I only used Sierra 170 gr. bullets. I have 100's of jacketed 150 gr. bullets to load for the heck of it. I'll dig out my old manuals and use 3031 again, and the LEE crimp die for sure.
 

Rclark

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I also haven't loaded 30/30 for years. But I do remember I used 3031. That is about all I can tell you on that score. This was before I had a chronograph and documented anything! Happy testing!

As for reloading. As above you have to be careful with the lube (or at least the lube I was using which I rolled the cases in) or I'd get dimpled shoulders. Maybe the new fangled spray on lube would work better.
 

RSIno1

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Cholo said:
...... The shoulders were super easy to crush with the RCBS die when crimping. .
I found this too. The cases seem to stretch every firing and needed to be trimmed each time. Doing that I had no more crushed cases using RCBS dies. I too used 3031 and 150 gr flat nose Sierra bullets (2nds I bought at the factory by the pound - those were the days of cheap shooting).
 

bayou5252

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I load 30-30 and also use the Hornady FTX 160 grain projectiles shot out of the same Marlin. I use Hodgdon LVR powder @ the load recommended on the label of the powder
cannister: 35.5 grains. This produces a MV of 2390 FPS.

These things are real deer slayers!

Bayou52
 

Chief 101

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I load a lot of 30-30 and can honestly say that all of the powders you have mentioned are ideal for what you want to do. The Factory Crimp Lee die is a great choice and if you have never used one of these I think I have some excellent directions somewhere here on how to set it up properly and it really makes a difference...if there are any pitfalls I would say setting up the sizer so it minimally sets the shoulder back for ease of cycling and minimal case stretch as 30-30 cases are thinwalled and easily separate near the rim...
 

bnewberry

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The big advantage of the Lee crimp is that you are not seating and crimping at the same time. It works well.
 

Aqualung

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Thanks for the input. I do use the FCD for my .303 British, .223/5.56 and .300 Savage loads and really like how it works.

It's also good to know that I'm good with the powders I have... especially in these times.

Thanks again.

Aqualung
 
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I used to load a lot of .30-30.

I wont say my choice of powder is better than your choice, but I standardized on Reloder 7 exclusively.

With a 130 grain bullet, there's ample velocity, relatively easy recoil, and the deer tip over quickly.

The .30-30 case is easy to reload. It's fairly short with gentle geometry.

The .30-30 remains one of my all time favorite cartridges.

In fact, just this year I bought a brand new Marlin 336SS. 8)
 

Rick Courtright

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Hi,

I've experienced pretty much everything already mentioned, so don't need to parrot those cautions and advice, but will add one of my own. I shot a lot of cast bullets, Lee 170 gr., in a Win 94. They worked well. It went to a new home and there's a 336 in its place now. First time I took it out I took some of my "old" cast ammo, and the first round stuck in the chamber before the bolt closed. It seems the chamber on this 336 is a little short for the ogive on that particular bullet using the book's OAL I had. I also have a Lee mold for 150 gr bullets--virtually identical shape but shorter than the 170s. They work fine. And I've had no problem with jacketed bullets in 150 gr or 170 gr.

Rick C
 

Paul B

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Rick Courtright said:
Hi,

I've experienced pretty much everything already mentioned, so don't need to parrot those cautions and advice, but will add one of my own. I shot a lot of cast bullets, Lee 170 gr., in a Win 94. They worked well. It went to a new home and there's a 336 in its place now. First time I took it out I took some of my "old" cast ammo, and the first round stuck in the chamber before the bolt closed. It seems the chamber on this 336 is a little short for the ogive on that particular bullet using the book's OAL I had. I also have a Lee mold for 150 gr bullets--virtually identical shape but shorter than the 170s. They work fine. And I've had no problem with jacketed bullets in 150 gr or 170 gr.

Rick C

Good to see I'm not the only one running cast in the 30-30. I have that Lee 170 gr. mold but haven't use it it years once I got a Lyman #311291. I don't know what level you loaded yours to but my bullets were seated to just engage the rifling and were loaded tom1950 FPS. Come to think of it I haven't even loaded for the 30-30 in some time. Powders I used most were IMR 3031 1n2 H4895. The last 30-30 loads I did was with Unique with a 120 gr. bevel based bullet from a SAECO mold I picked up. Dunno the mold number as it isn't stamped on the blocks. I run those with 5.0 gr. of Unique and use for small game and plinking, mostly the latter. Light recoil and the grandkids get to shoot his old "cowboy" rifle. :mrgreen:
Paul B.
 

daveg.inkc

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This is a very good post. A lot of great information. 3031 is a good powder to use. Not often mentioned. A friend uses 28-30 grains in a 45-70. Rolling blocks that shoot great. I set up a broken bathroom sink @ 500 yards, my friend busted it first shot. Broken pieces provided shooting all afternoon. Everyone needs a lever action 30-30 in collection. One member here spoke of buying Sierra 2nd's on bullet choice. I watched their building go up. The choice of bullets are slim now. The Lee FC die has high reviews. I use on all straight wall revolver sizes. It's good to see this old, reliable round still active!
 

mr surveyor

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I've been loading for the 30-30 win for about 8 years now and up until 2-3 years ago it was only jacketed Rem Core Lokt or Sierra Pro Hunters. I finally decided to tinker with cast boolits and pistol powders and got absolutely hooked. I've loaded (several hundred) cast 140-185 gr, both bevel based and gas checked, with Unique, A2400 and AA#7 ... it's almost become an addiction.

If I knew 50+ years ago what (little) I know today, I probably would have concentrated on a single Marlin or Winchester 30-30 for everything from squirrels/rabbits up to deer sized game. Unfortunately, looks like I'm a late bloomer.


jd
 

Three50seven

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Sounds like you're on the right path. Those 150gr Sierras over a stiff charge of 3031 (I use 28.5gr, ymmv) is all you'll ever need in your Marlin. I took a nice 8-point last fall with mine using that combination.
 

Aqualung

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OK, Thanks again for all the info and input.

I've got a couple more questions, now that I'm getting ready to start making some loads.

Sierra 150grn Jacketed Flat Point:
I made up my dummy rounds for proper seating and when I seat this bullet so it crimps into the cannelure, it measures out to be 2.51" COL. My data sources (Lee #2, Insert with Lee dies, Hodgdon site) all show 2.55" COL and Lee specifically warns against seating deeper. Should I be concerned, as I don't plan on loading absolute maximum loads? I wouldn't think it'd be enough to cause issue as long as I work up, but am not positive.

Hornady 160grn FTX:
What data to believe? The Hodgdon/IMR site and my Hornady #9 (I know there's a #10) have drastically different max loads.
BL-C(2): Hodgdon=31.0grn max, Hornady=33.3grn max
H4895: Hodgdon=30.0grn max, Hornady=28.9grn max
IMR3031: Hodgdon=28.5grn max, Hornady=Not Listed

Can anyone tell me if Hornady #10 has anything different from #9 for that bullet load?

Thanks.

Aqualung
 

catfish621

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I seem to remember that with 3031 it was 30 gr. with 170's and 31 gr. with 150's. A lot of the old loads are now considered over max.
 

Aqualung

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Update:
I've got my batch of test loads loaded...just need to get to the range now.

When I set up test loads, I only do a few at each "step" and see how they perform and move to the next as long as things don't look bad. then, if a particular step looks good, I'll load more and try them out in more volume.

Here's what I have (# in parentheses is # of rounds):
Hornady 160grn FTX (C.O.L. 2.535"):
H4895 - 28.9grn Max (Hornady #9)
27.5(2), 28.0(3), 28.3(5), 28.5(5), 28.7(5)
BL-C(2) - 33.3grn Max (Hornady #9)
31.0(2), 31.5(3), 32.0(5), 32.5(5), 33.0(5)

Sierra 150grn Flat Point (.30-30) (C.O.L. 2.51")
H4895 - 34.0grn Max (Lee #2 & Lee Die Insert)
31.5(2), 32.5(3), 33.0(5), 33.5(5), 33.7(5)
BL-C(2) - 37.0grn Max (Lee #2 & Lee Die Insert)
33.0(2), 34.0(3), 35.0(5), 35.5(5), 36.5(5)

All have a pretty heavy crimp with Lee Factory Crimp Die, because I figure they'll need it, being stuffed in the tubular magazine. These won't, but whatever I end up with for hunting will be, so I'm working for consistency to start.

I was getting low on primed brass, and did not load any 3031 loads.

Aqualung
 
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