Finish on "blued" Ruger Mark III's?

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hakr

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
5
Is it just ordinary bluing over plain steel, or is the steel treated before the bluing is applied? And how tough is that bluing?
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
20,821
As far as we know,,, normal firearm blueing. It's only as tough as most blueing.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
7,749
the only 'treatment' of the steel surface,before bluing;, is basically 'cleaning' and if needed, rust removal ( oxidation) but even this will be taken care of in the hot ,caustic, bluing solution ( bath) after , bluing is only "controlled oxidation...."
oh, and todays solutions are more of a black/blue, than the older ,'nitre blue'........many will say its just a 'black oxide" used by some companies. Ruger was using 'Dulites' formulas for their bluing operation........
the final "finish' will be determines by the "prep' done to the metal surface,polished, matted, etched in an acid bath ,etc....even bead ( sand ) blasting for a rough, matte finish.
Blued guns can and will last a LONG time, its the handling, wear and tear, cleaning, and of course any 'accidental' spills on the surface, including "body" fluids....blood, sweat & tears.............
more damage is done by "over cleaning" than anything else, except maybea "tight, leather" holster or leave it out in the elements.......
 

hakr

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
5
Thanks. I used to own a Mark III Hunter, and basically I cleaned it with a bit of BreakFree CLP on a wood-handled q-tip for those areas easily reached through the shell ejection port, and an occasional swipe through the barrel.

I disassembled the pistol for a field stripping once, after running though a year's worth of rounds, and found almost nothing "in there" worth cleaning out.

I've got a new Mark III coming in, a "blued" model, and I figure to follow the same basic practice...very light use of BreakFree.
 

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