ejector rod housing

[any ruger]

I have my old model Super Blackhawk, made in 1967, at a gunsmith to get the stud for the housing silver soldered back in. He says he can't get the solder to adhere to the stud. He called Ruger and the service rep. told him they had a problem with this and that the gun would have to have a new barrel installed. Problem is it is unconverted and the barrel is cut to 5 1/2". Any thoughts?

 

[Hooch]

I am a journeyman pipefitter by trade...... if they cannot get silver solder to adhere then they are not gunsmiths.............clean the adhesive surface proper and it will adhere............ probably have some oil or grease inside the joint.............. AMATUERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Carry_Up]

These days it is popular to try to silver solder with low temp solder. Real silver soldering, as CMH will tell you, is actually silver brazing which is done at around 1200 degrees. Various metals may require special flux, but generally it is borax. Some stainless steels might not take without the right solder. If you are not great at the process, silver will run all over the work and it is difficult to clean up afterwards. (Meaning that you have to know what you are doing.) I wonder if a couple of tiny tig welds would be a better solution?

The factory is using what is called solder paste these days. It is faster, works at a lower temperature and doesn't run, but isn't very strong. I already shot the front sight off my Vaquero. I requested that they silver solder it on, but no. More solder paste. One consideration about soldering on the barrel is possible heat distortion. Special cooling equipment for the bore might be needed, etc. It isn't for the feint of heart. But how did they manage to make all those millions of Colt SAA?

CU

 

[rugerguy]

One of the reasons being, if done at the "correct" temperature, the area surrounding will discolor the barrel and then this calls for a "reblue" (polish and refinish) if you have the tooling, you can remove the barrel, makes it a bit easier and simpler, BUT the colors may NOT "match" so the correct way is to reblue the entire gun , to "match" and MOST shops this is NOT a "proper restoration, because the gun will REALLY look like it was "reblued". The less number of components that need to be "redone" , the better, do just the barrel ............ the "paste" or low temp solder does NOT hold up up in the long run...we look for this at any show or shop that may be trying to "unload" (sell) one of these, make sure of the stud with any of these old models....caveat emptor

 

[any ruger]

Shipping the gun back to Ruger for evaluation . Like I said the worst they can say is there is nothing they can do and send it back or they maybe can fit a 7 1/2 " barrel to it . Don't know I'll have to wait and see .

 

[Carry_Up]

Of course on this older model you would hate to lose the value if the original finish had to be removed. It is true that silver will not blue up the same as steel, but ideally there is only a tiny thread of silver remaining around the seam, and it will not show at all. Silver is not gap filling, so you either get it to flow and stop before it runs, or you have a big mess to clean up.

It boils down to whether you want a historical masterpiece, or a working revolver. Would anyone care to post a photo of a broken stud?

Thanks!

 

[Hondo44]

Push Brownells heat sink paste down the barrel, clean both parts with muriatic acid 1st, use Dandix silver solder flux from Brownells with low temp silver solder, "tin" both surfaces with Mapp gas small tip flame, then clamp stud to barrel, and apply heat. Don't add any more solder. Bluing should be OK. Just did one.

 

[flatgate]

But how did they manage to make all those millions of Colt SAA?

CU

By only chambering Blackpowder cartridges.

flatgate

 

[contender]

Good info on repairs!

+1 to Flatgate. We now have bigger & badder boomers!

 

[any ruger]

Thanks for all the replies. Today I picked up the gun at my gunsmiths. As I said in my first post the barrel had been cut by someone to 5 1/2 inches. My gunsmith sent the gun back to Ruger, they not only repaired the ejector rod housing but reblued the gun did the transfer bar conversion , (sent back the orig. parts) and fitted new rosewood grips. also sent back the orig. grips.

 

[Hondo44]

Awesome!!

When you put back the original parts, look for an R stamped on the bottom of the frame covered by the trigger guard. I'm curious to know if they still stamp them. Thx.

 

[any ruger]

Going to install orig. parts today and will look for the r and post.

 

[any ruger]

Hondo44 no r stamped on frame.

 

[Hondo44]

any ruger,

That's cool, thanks very much for confirming that!

 

[any ruger]

Been shooting the gun last couple of days . Shoots good but after having the barrel cut and a taller front sight added I've been trying to adjust the front sight. I'm kind of surprised Ruger worked on it being the barrel was cut. Ruger should have always made this gun with the 5 1/2 inch barrel.

 

[Hondo44]

You're absolutely right. They probably worked on it because they do currently make one.

 

[edlmann]

Been shooting the gun last couple of days . Shoots good but after having the barrel cut and a taller front sight added I've been trying to adjust the front sight. I'm kind of surprised Ruger worked on it being the barrel was cut. Ruger should have always made this gun with the 5 1/2 inch barrel.

They do - now.

Just picked up a used one in stainless.