I got ambitious and modified my hanger bar for a tensioning set screw instead of paying for the Hicks Accurizer.
First remove the forend and mainspring/strut to expose the hanger bar; look carefully at the front where the spring retainer sits in the slotted part just behind the forend screw nut.
I clamped the action upside down over my drill press table and used a drill bit the exact width of the spring strut slot to center the hole. The base of the slot curves up to the front so I centered just at the base of the slope.
Then I changed bits and drilled thru the base of the bar for a 8-32 tap. Staying centered I replaced the bit with a larger size for #8 screw body diameter and drilled a clearance hole thru the slot to the bottom. [this 'hole' just puts cutouts in the walls of the slot so you don't have to tap all the way down.] Make sure you don't enlarge the tap dia hole thru the bottom; just get to the base of the slotted area and maybe slightly countersink/deburr the lip of the tap hole with just the tip of the larger bit.
Now tap thru with 8-32 tap, spray off all the chips with brake cleaner and toothbrush, touch up exposed metal in slot with cold blue if you want.
Once cleaned up I started a 3/16" 8-32 set screw til it was flush with the inside face of the hanger bar. I took a stainless [brass if you can find one] #4 hex nut and slipped it in between the bar and bbl. [a dab of grease helps keep it from falling out.]
Now you can carefully snug up the set screw so the nose [cup point] centers itself in the hex nut hole. Make sure the set screw does not stick up into the slot or it will keep the strut from fitting into the slotted nose housing properly. [Use shorter length or grind down a hair if need be.]
This setup gives you a great adjustable tensioning point with zero inletting of the forend needed; the hex nut spacer keeps the set screw from digging into the bbl and spreads the load over slightly wider contact area.
Of course you need to remove the spring/strut to adjust but its a no tool job using just a nail for a 'slave pin.'
I started the screw 'just snug' and tightened 1/4 turn which should be around .008" for a 32 pitch thread.
I will shoot groups without the forend and tweak until I see results; may wind up bedding the forend to the bar anyway but for now it should be a good start.
Hope this helps if someone was thinking of trying this method; turned out easier than I hoped.
First remove the forend and mainspring/strut to expose the hanger bar; look carefully at the front where the spring retainer sits in the slotted part just behind the forend screw nut.
I clamped the action upside down over my drill press table and used a drill bit the exact width of the spring strut slot to center the hole. The base of the slot curves up to the front so I centered just at the base of the slope.
Then I changed bits and drilled thru the base of the bar for a 8-32 tap. Staying centered I replaced the bit with a larger size for #8 screw body diameter and drilled a clearance hole thru the slot to the bottom. [this 'hole' just puts cutouts in the walls of the slot so you don't have to tap all the way down.] Make sure you don't enlarge the tap dia hole thru the bottom; just get to the base of the slotted area and maybe slightly countersink/deburr the lip of the tap hole with just the tip of the larger bit.
Now tap thru with 8-32 tap, spray off all the chips with brake cleaner and toothbrush, touch up exposed metal in slot with cold blue if you want.
Once cleaned up I started a 3/16" 8-32 set screw til it was flush with the inside face of the hanger bar. I took a stainless [brass if you can find one] #4 hex nut and slipped it in between the bar and bbl. [a dab of grease helps keep it from falling out.]
Now you can carefully snug up the set screw so the nose [cup point] centers itself in the hex nut hole. Make sure the set screw does not stick up into the slot or it will keep the strut from fitting into the slotted nose housing properly. [Use shorter length or grind down a hair if need be.]
This setup gives you a great adjustable tensioning point with zero inletting of the forend needed; the hex nut spacer keeps the set screw from digging into the bbl and spreads the load over slightly wider contact area.
Of course you need to remove the spring/strut to adjust but its a no tool job using just a nail for a 'slave pin.'
I started the screw 'just snug' and tightened 1/4 turn which should be around .008" for a 32 pitch thread.
I will shoot groups without the forend and tweak until I see results; may wind up bedding the forend to the bar anyway but for now it should be a good start.
Hope this helps if someone was thinking of trying this method; turned out easier than I hoped.
