Could Ron Powers or ??? make a tougher transfer bar?

[flatgate]

What part exactly is getting "pinched"?

The transfer bar!

Unload revolver. Check cylinder to make sure.

Cock hammer. Dryfire and maintain trigger pressure. Slowly release trigger pressure while watching hammer. If the hammer moves forward as the transfer bar drops down then the transfer bar was "pinched" by the hammer.

Inspect geometry of the hammer's face. Slightly deepen the "transfer bar" notch until the above test reveals no forward hammer movement. The hammer should slam against the hammer well portion of the cylinder frame and only "transfer" the energy, via the transfer bar, to the firing pin. The transfer bar does not need to be the "hammer stop."

This is all just my humble opinion and is only presented as information. Don't mess with the hammers on your Rugers.

flatgate

 

[Yosemite Sam]

Jim, no offense, but if you want something else to worry about, I'd keep an eye out for an extra hard base pin latch assembly, too. I've noted lately that that part can take a lot of abuse, and indeed, the one on my .44 mag is worn. You probably don't need a forged, hardened specialty part, but annual inspection and occasional replacement might not be a bad idea.

-- Sam

 

[Wyandot Jim]

I have seen one break in a CAS match.
A lot of the guys weld up the hammer and get rid of the bar.
Jim

 

[ddd482]

HMMM. Can't recall ever breaking one in my OM's. Apparently you're buying the wrong models. :lol:

EarlFH

 

[Hokie73]

If you start different making parts harder, where are you going to move the "weak" link to? Every mechanism has one. In my opinion Flatgate has the correct solution. Everybody associated with CAS thinks the number one thing everyone should do is dry fire their revolver a zillion times, and all that cold forging eventually causes embrittlement and breakage.

 

[Wyandot Jim]

If you start different making parts harder, where are you going to move the "weak" link to? Every mechanism has one. In my opinion Flatgate has the correct solution. Everybody associated with CAS thinks the number one thing everyone should do is dry fire their revolver a zillion times, and all that cold forging eventually causes embrittlement and breakage.

Well now, since I shoot a wee bit of CAS and do perty good at it I might add. I think that associates me with CAS. I for one do not dry fire. That is why I have 22s, keeps the price of practice down and more fun. I use Old Models so don't have to contend with that new fangle stuff.
Tried dry firing it is just to boring. When I pull the trigger I want to here a BANG :roll:
Most of the guys I know don't dry fire either. Oh by the way if you are a top shooter and are using new models in a major match that might have cost $500+ to shoot the last thing you want is a broken transfer bar. So you weld up the hammer no worry. Also makes a little smoother action.

Yea it is the weak link but not very. The one I saw break was a fairly new gun and the guy doesn't dry fire. Go figure

 

[Yosemite Sam]

If you start different making parts harder, where are you going to move the "weak" link to? Every mechanism has one. In my opinion Flatgate has the correct solution. Everybody associated with CAS thinks the number one thing everyone should do is dry fire their revolver a zillion times, and all that cold forging eventually causes embrittlement and breakage.

Funny, I was going to post a similar thought in regards to my idea of a hardened base pin latch: In thinking about it, you would not want to do this, as it's much better to have the $4 latch parts wear than the frame of the gun, which would otherwise receive the transferred stress.

-- Sam

 

[Aktarus]

When a revolver consumed thousands of munitions, the tolerances of the transfer bar increases, and sometimes it happens that during the downturn, is "pinched" by the dog. Simply replace the transfer bar and eight back ok.

 

[Bucks Owin]

Wow, in all my dealings with Ruger Single Actions, this is the first complaint I've ever heard about transfer bar breakage. I thought transfer bar breakage was practically a non-existent problem.

Same here! See what a great forum this is? Now we can all worry about our transfer bars! :lol: Dennis (who has yet to break one, but prefers them left out altogether and an extra screw installed... :wink: )

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Everybody associated with CAS thinks the number one thing everyone should do is dry fire their revolver a zillion times, and all that cold forging eventually causes embrittlement and breakage.

That's a pretty broad statement. Know a lot of CAS shooters, do you? I know quite a few, and most of them know better than to dry fire their guns a whole lot.

Count me as another CAS shooter who does not dry fire his guns. In fact, I don't even practice. That would take all the fun out of it.

I don't like to dry fire any gun, no matter who made it.

 

[The Preacher]

Broke a transfer bar on a stainless Super not long ago. Slicked up the action and was dry firing it a few hundred times to get things "in order". Must admit to being surprised a bit but only took a few minutes to replace it. The transfer bar is the one part I will make a point to keep on hand. A "weak link", yeah I'd have to agree.

The Preacher

 

[flatgate]

I firmly believe most, but not all, of you guys have your heads stuck in the sand and refuse to listen to reason. No bad feelings intended but.........

Fit the transfer bar so it's not battered/pinched. I dry fire my NM Rugers and have NEVER broken a transfer bar.......

OK, I'll not breach the subject again. Sorry for the rant.

flatgate

 

[cas6969]

"soon", as in some time this century. 8)


http://www.cylindersmith.com/Transferbar.html