cast bullets part two

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the fatman

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
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325
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Deltona Florida
Howdy again! On another thread some folks didn't much care for hard cast bullets around BHN 20 or above. So what BHN for what velocities? I've been using oregon trail laser-cast bullets which are hard and beveled. They have worked fairly well for me but I would be willing to try some others.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
The flat base bumps up to seal the bore, where as the bevel base channels the hot gas right up the side of the bullet and causes more leading IMHO. The softer bullet seals better than the hard also. A good seal prevents leading better than a hard bullet.
 

Sugar River

Buckeye
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
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1,054
Location
S Florida
Veral Smith's formula relates BHN to pressure but not velocity.

Pressure needed to obturate = BHN X 1422.

Example: Bullet with BHN of 10 needs about 14,000 PSI to obturate.

For most heavy revolvers that I use, a Brinnell of 12-15 is just fine.

Pete
 

Rusty W

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
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109
Location
Muldrow Oklahoma
Here's a cheat sheet I use from Lee. It gives the BHN and the MAX chamber PSI.

leehrdnscrt.jpg
 

pps

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
306
Location
PRK
+1 on the castboolits website.

Factors for cast bullets that influence leading:

1. Bore diameter (size bullets .001-.002" larger than the bore)

2. Chamber diameter (if the chamber throat is smaller than the bore then the bullet gets swagged down to less than bore diameter, gas blows by and right into the grooves of the bore) Any chamber smaller than the bore needs to be reamed...just like the stricture in my barrel mentioned in the other thread had to be fire lapped out.

3. Bullet hardness: Soft bullets for slower velocities (since they will "bump up" easily. Harder bullets if you are to drive them faster.)

At castboolits.com they get into recommended hardness vs pressure.

ps: ah hell, rusty beat me to the punch while I was typing.
 

GP100man

Buckeye
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,386
Location
Tabor City, NC.
Fatman ,just wait till ya get fed up & by a melter & some molds!!!!!& more molds & another bottom pour & another mold & another batch of tin & another mold & &&&& another mold!!!!
Then a sizer & another mold & a top punch & another mold!!!!


Start scrounging lead NOW!!!!
 

pps

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
306
Location
PRK
GP100man":2bd48vg2 said:
Fatman ,just wait till ya get fed up & by a melter & some molds!!!!!& more molds & another bottom pour & another mold & another batch of tin & another mold & &&&& another mold!!!!
Then a sizer & another mold & a top punch & another mold!!!!


Start scrounging lead NOW!!!!

TRUE DAT!!!!

You know the addiction is bad when you build a bullet trap to collect the lead for re-melting and start calling your trips to the range the "bullet disassembly phase of reloading.

20090903001.jpg
 

Rusty W

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
109
Location
Muldrow Oklahoma
GP100man is right. This stuff can be addicting. I started about 3 years ago and with the help from the great group over at castboolits I have yet another hobbie to spend my money on. Like I need another hobbie. I have about 1000 commercial cast boolits of different types that I'll never shoot. I like mine better. When I started, prices went from $18.00 per 500 for 158gr LFN to $28.00. The 45/70 300gr LFP was $22.00 for 250. I ordered a couple molds that day and never looked back. I have close to 1k lbs of Wheelweights, about 100lbs of linotype, and about 25lbs of solder. That should keep me in boolits for quite a while.

I got it bad. When I walk across a parking lot, I have my head down looking for wheelweights. I ride a motorcycle and when I come to a stop at an intersection, I look for wheelweights. I have a couple friends that work for the water department and when they replace the lead pipe I bribe them with a 6pack and get 20-30lbs of soft lead. I have a tool like the tire shop uses to remove wheelweights and go to the local salvage yard and spend a couple hours searching for wheelweights. Depending on who's working I can usually get a 5 gallon bucket for a 12pk. The days of setting a 5 gallon bucket at the local mom and pop tire shop are about over here, glad I got a bunch while the getting was good.
 

Dale53

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
925
Location
Hamilton, Ohio USA
Truly, folks, casting your own bullets and reloading is definitely the "way to go" to feed your guns. Prices have gotten out of hand in the past couple of years. Yet, I have managed to continue to shoot for "peanuts" (my typical box of loads (fifty) for various center fire pistols and revolvers cost less than $2.00 to load and shoot). I NEVER have to forgo a shooting trip because of cost or availability.

You can get set up with a GOOD reloading outfit (the Lee Classic Turret press with scale and dies for one caliber that will allow you to load 150-200 rounds per hour of MATCH quality) for about $200.00 buying wisely. Then after you do that for a while, you can start thinking about bullet casting. You can put a good bullet casting set up to work for about the same expenditure as for reloading.

These tools last nearly FOREVER! You'll pay for your reloading set up with the first thousand rounds you load (I shot 5000-7500 rounds last year) and after that it is free sailing. Same thing with the cast bullets.

There is NO better time to start than today!

Dale53
 

Bucks Owin

Hunter
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
3,190
Location
51st state of Jefferson
The "fit" is more important than the brinell number. Cast bullets must have no voids and perfect bases. Also, there are more accurate bullet designs than the ever popular "Keith" style IMO. A properly sized cast bullet can easily shoot 1" @ 25 from a good gun and load. BTW, Lyman #2 alloy is around "15" and is hard enough for 1500 fps with a good lube, and soft enough to obturate with the correct powder charge. Cast bullets can really shine when the right combination all comes together!...FWIW, Dennis
310L001.jpg
This group is far from spectacular but is respectable at around 1.5" @ 25. You can expect the same with a good cast bullet load. Bullet is plain base 250 gr .44 at about 1300 fps of straight wheelweight alloy, water dropped. :wink:
 

Rex Driver

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
60
Location
Colonial Heights, Va.
I am right there with everybody when it comes to casting, like many here I have my turkey fryer setup for making ingots and my lee bottom pour pots for casting bullets in 38, 41 and 45 Cal. Once set up with the proper tools casting bullets can be second only to shooting when it comes to fun. I am one of the true scroungers in the world, I have two local plumbers who do a lot of work on replacing pipes in older homes who keep lead pipe for me and I also have a local scrap yard that gives me good prices on lead. It is up to the individual as to how involved they wish to become. I have three RCBS lubra sizers (I picked up used and cheap) one set up for 38/357, one for 41 and one for 45. I have two Lee Classic Turret presses (again both bought or traded for used) and I have a bad habit of not being able to pass up on a good two cavity lee mold.

My only fear is in getting interested in 44 mag and 32, this would require further looking for additional used lubra sizers. I hate changing the sizing dies in them.
 

tomiswho

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
323
Location
Georgia
Okay - I've got two lead ovens, no molds, no handles, no lead. I can get that - buying lead/alloys if I can't get any free...

but what do I have to have to size and lube? How much $$

And I've always wondered.... say a 4-bullet die. pour in the lead. then what? let it sit to solidify? how long?

BTW, I actually do have an old "tin soldier" mold..... antique I'm sure. does just one soldier at a time.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
You can melt the lube in a pan and dip the bullet deep enough to cover the lube grooves, then pass them thru a Lee sizer on your reloading press. The sizer is less than $20. You will have to scrape some excess lube off the base of the bullet and the crimping groove with something like a small plastic knife. Not too bad tho for the $$. Is what did until I got my Lyman 4500.
 

Rex Driver

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
60
Location
Colonial Heights, Va.
tomiswho":22rtihoj said:
Okay - I've got two lead ovens, no molds, no handles, no lead. I can get that - buying lead/alloys if I can't get any free...

but what do I have to have to size and lube? How much $$

And I've always wondered.... say a 4-bullet die. pour in the lead. then what? let it sit to solidify? how long?

BTW, I actually do have an old "tin soldier" mold..... antique I'm sure. does just one soldier at a time.

One of the many great parts of the casting reloading hobby is that you can start as small or as large as you wish. Lee makes some very good molds, especially if you are not casting tens of thousands a month. They also make a cheap sizing die. I still have my lee presses and through the patients of looking through used items, going to gun shows and talking to other shooteres got my 3 RCBS lubra sizers for little more than a song.

Which ever way you wish to start get in there and melt some lead, you might be suprised as to how much fun it is. One last suggestion, do not spend a ton of money until you find out if you like it or not or if you feel your time is worth more than the fun you are having and the money that you are saving.
 

GP100man

Buckeye
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,386
Location
Tabor City, NC.
Here`s one for ya , it`s a 358156 , de gas checked & HP`ed

th_102_0012.jpg


& lubed in the top crimp groove!!

& I`ve learned how to use photobucket WOHOOO!!!!
 

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