This is really pissing me off. The owners manual isn't clear on it, and the video on the Ruger website doesn't show what I need at the right angle! I have the trigger guard back in, and am able to pull the trigger and turn the cylinder. The video says to pull the trigger to the rear, and then replace the hammer, then put in the hammer pin, then release the trigger to let the hammer fall forward. Should I put the trigger in so it look cocked, then put the pin in? That seems to be the only way to line up the hole. The video shows him putting it in hammer forward, but I can't line up the holes that way! The only way to line up the frigging hole is to have it all the way back, but I can see ithe hook on the bottom of the hammer isn't going to line up with the piece on the trigger guard that it need to! I have been struggling with this thing for over an hour!
Can't get the GP100 Hammer back in!
- Thread starter kbm6893
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
The trick is to get the hammer sear notch under the sear of the trigger, as if you had fired the gun. If you have a pin punch try inserting that first instead of the hammer pin. Then when everything is lined up push the punch out as you insert the pivot pin. Make sure you do it from the correct side. Opposite side for the punch and correct side for the pivot pin.
This is unreal! My hands are raw from trying to get this thing in. The trigger guard is in correctly, and the transfer bar is where it shoudl be. The function test of the gun is fine with the hammer out, but I cannot get this frigging hammer in! I only bought the GP because I know they are so midular, but I wish I had just bought another S&W.
marlboro man
Bearcat
try a search on youtube.com and see if anyone has a better video that you can watch other then the ruger website video. i've got a GP but have never taken it apart, so cant help you there. just type in ruger disassembly and see what comes up. best of luck. Joe.
The hammer can be tricky but you are working way too hard. It should just fall in if you get the trigger positioned correctly.
Check your pms
Check your pms
Pull the trigger all the way back and hold it there.
Drop the hammer into the slot.
Turn the gun sideways with the serial number side up.
Align the hammer's frame hole with the hammer hole.
Apply a drop of oil on the hammer pivot pin then insert it into the frame.
Release the trigger.
Drop the hammer into the slot.
Turn the gun sideways with the serial number side up.
Align the hammer's frame hole with the hammer hole.
Apply a drop of oil on the hammer pivot pin then insert it into the frame.
Release the trigger.
You may have interefrence with the transfer bar or some other part not correctly installed in the trigger group. If everything is correct, make sure the transfer bar is forward and not hanging up, then slip in the hammer, wriggle, shake to see if it will drop down. This should be all it takes to get it installed and the holes aligned. If you can't get it in, take a break and try again later. If that still doesn't work, you may need to visit a 'smith or a gunshop familiar with Rugers.
Good luck
Good luck
marlboro man
Bearcat
try these first link is disassembly second like is the reassembly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96lc7XGZIxE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSKWsVCcEJU
if the links dont work, type in ruger security six disassembly/reassembly. i know its not a GP but its a similar design...could work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96lc7XGZIxE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSKWsVCcEJU
if the links dont work, type in ruger security six disassembly/reassembly. i know its not a GP but its a similar design...could work.
This is unreal. Over 2 hours and I'm bleeding trying to get this back in. If the gun passes the function test with the trigger assembly back in, it HAS to be in right, correct? I mean could the transfer bar or pall somehow be out of alighnment and it still functions?
kbm6893":6b920hnf said:
This is the point where I usually walk away, put it out my mind for a few hours (or a few days), and then try again with a fresh approach. Reminds me of the first time I tried to reasseble my MkII- it's easy once you learn the trick. Until then, it's nearly impossible. Good luck.
Thanks for the encouragement, but I honestly don't see what the hell I could be doing wrong. The Ruger .22 pistols are notoriously hard to dissassemble. Te GP's are supposed to be easy. I am ready to mail it back to Ruger and let them fix it.
if anybody has a video specifically showing the position of the hammer as it goes into the slot, please post it. I have tried every position, and at every spot in the travel of the trigger. I am so pissed right now, you can't even imagine it. I didn't even come up for dinner, figuring I would get it in. Now I'm too pissed to even nuke my food.
if anybody has a video specifically showing the position of the hammer as it goes into the slot, please post it. I have tried every position, and at every spot in the travel of the trigger. I am so pissed right now, you can't even imagine it. I didn't even come up for dinner, figuring I would get it in. Now I'm too pissed to even nuke my food.
Got the hammer in. It was the adjustable sights that were preventing me from lining up the hammer in the slot. Wish I could say all was well, but shouldn't you be able to fully cock the hammer when the hammer is back in before you install the hammer strut? I can cock the hammer, but it won't lock back, and even when I put the strut in, it makes no difference. Also, should the hammer fin fall out so easily? I can turn the gun on it's side and it will fall out.
GP100man
Buckeye
try this leave trigger forward ,stick hammer in place against frame at top, now slowly pull trigger until it drops into place, install pin.
if not take a break , remove the trigger group &lay it flat place hammer correctly engaging each other then duplicate in the frame.
GP100man
if not take a break , remove the trigger group &lay it flat place hammer correctly engaging each other then duplicate in the frame.
GP100man
