Brand new MKIII jammed tight.

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300kph

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
4
I have a brand new MKIII in stainless and I have yet to put a round through it. The gun cycled perfectly, no problems dropping the mag. I oiled it up a bit but saw no need in a strip since it is new.

I mounted the factory-supplied Weaver rail on top for use with a green dot laser I bought and was planning on taking to the range in a day or so to break it in. Since I have no intention of ever mounting a scope before I installed the rail, I cut it down about an inch to make it look neater (and not run beyond the rise on the frame where it meets the barrel) and I polished it. Looks great and I know shortening it would have no affect on the gun or the rail. I plan on leaving the rail on the gun as it does not impede use of the sights so I wanted it to look pretty. I was very pleased with my work. Here it is:

MKIII_Rail.jpg


MKIII_Rail_2.jpg


MKIII_Rail_laser.jpg


The gun sat for two days after installing the rail and today I picked it up and the bolt will no budge. Not even a wiggle. It is rock solid as if welded into place.

I had cycled it after installing the rail and I am stumped. I removed the rail thinking perhaps one of the screws was tightened down onto the slide. Not the case. Still as if welded.

I can only think of one thing and I'd like some expert advice here... What might have occurred is i put a drop of blue Loctite in the 3 holes for the screws that mount the rail. The only thing I can possibly think is the Loctite has "frozen" the slide? The rear screw hole extends down far enough to reveal a spring down there so it obviously might allow Loctite to contact the bolt.

This seems impossible that a drop or two of Loctite would freeze the bolt solid and I could not get it to release by tapping the back of the bolt with a rubber mallet. I even used a wood dowel and hammer on the front of the "grab area" of the bolt to try and tap it free. Nothing. I put on leather gloves and pulled as hard as I could. Not the tiniest bit of motion. Frozen stiff. Tried while holding the trigger and even the slide release. Did not make any difference.

It is the weirdest thing.

Did not attempt to strip as it is brand new and I would rather not mess with it in case there is some defect.

As mentioned, the mag releases with a clean drop but it can hang a tad when putting it in. Sometimes just needs a little wiggle.

Looked at many videos and did tons of searches but could not find any info on a rock solid lock-up like this.

Unless someone can chime in with some advice I will call Ruger and see what the return policy is on a new gun.

I will feel stupid if it's some simple thing. I am not an expert at field stripping this gun (I know they can be pesky) so if anyone has any advice, please keep it simple.

Thanks!
Wayne
 

swmetal

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 19, 2015
Messages
39
I can only think of one thing and I'd like some expert advice here... What might have occurred is i put a drop of blue Loctite in the 3 holes for the screws that mount the rail. The only thing I can possibly think is the Loctite has "frozen" the slide?

I think you have your answer to what happened. Sounds like a bit of loctite got on the bolt when you cycled. Its immovable because you can't get much leverage on it like you can removing a screw. You might try disassembly and careful application of heat or I believe there is a loctite solvent but not sure if it would affect the finish.
 
Joined
Dec 17, 2015
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2,363
Location
Reading, Pa
Since you mentioned the liquid lochtite then I would say to apply some heat to the area where you put that screw in. There's very little clearance in there, plus the spring pressure holding the bolt closed, a little lochtite will definitely lock it solid. I would use a michro torch or a large soldering iron and see if it releases, after it does then you have some cleaning to do. If you want to lochtite those screws I would use the kind in the stick form...

423-208.01_s500_p1.jpg
 

300kph

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
4
Makes sense since only the rear hole of the 3 is drilled straight thru to expose the top area of the bolt. Pretty sure the front 2 are just tapped partially down. At lease it looks that way under magnification. Wish I had used the chap-stick style.

What about devising some method of tapping the bolt back Maybe rig up some sort of "Y" or U-shaped device out of wood that would contact both "finger grabs" at the rear of the bolt and use a mallet to drive it back and out?

Is the any chance I would damage the gun doing this?

I am blown away that such a little bit of Loctite would freeze the bolt so solid. I'm not crazy about using heat or a torch on a brand-new SS gun. If this is beyond my ability I might send it back to Ruger. It am apprehensive as I picked this one from 6 and it is perfect in every way. We've all heard of (or had) horror stories with getting a gun back looking like it was dragged behind a car.

One last question, is there anything else that can cause this condition?

W
 

5of7

Hunter
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
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Why not try backing the screw out a little to see if it may be too long and it is jammed up against the bolt? I have seen this happen on rifles before. 8)
 

cadillo

Blackhawk
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Apr 22, 2008
Messages
667
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East Alabama
5of7 said:
Why not try backing the screw out a little to see if it may be too long and it is jammed up against the bolt? I have seen this happen on rifles before. 8)

I think we have a winner!
 
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300kph said:
...I had cycled it after installing the rail and I am stumped. I removed the rail thinking perhaps one of the screws was tightened down onto the slide. Not the case. Still as if welded...

He did remove the screws...if you had enough lochtite drip down in there when you cycled the gun you'd be surprised how much that'll hold when dispersing it like that, especially with the pressure of the return spring helping to hold the bolt in place. I would try a heat gun, you won't hurt a thing, when you smell melting lochtite give it a whack and it should come loose.
 

Cholo

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300kph said:
I removed the rail thinking perhaps one of the screws was tightened down onto the slide. Not the case. Still as if welded.
Not it. Did you type it right that you put the Loctite in the screw holes? It's supposed to go on the screw threads after the screws and holes have been degreased.

As far as heat: Blue Loctite isn't that strong. Remove the grips and lay the gun down. Put a hair dryer on hot and just let it blow on that area for about 10 minutes. That ought to do it if it's only the Loctite contacting the bolt.

(Captain America posted as I was pecking this out)
 

6gun

Hunter
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Oct 10, 2012
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2,580
Just call Ruger tell them what happened and make them give you a return label to ship it back and have them fix it, it's a new gun so you don't have to screw around making it work make Ruger do it.
 

300kph

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
4
Thanks everybody, but the first thing I did was remove the rail. The gun cycled properly after installing it but I think I got a bunch of Loctite down the hole nearest the rear sight. It is drilled thru to the bolt where the other two up front are are countersunk. Amazed with how tight it is. Going to try the heat approach and maybe some nail polish remover as it is harmless and may break the blue gunk down. If that does not work I will take Hunters advice and send it back to Rugerville.

W
 

cjs1945

Single-Sixer
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Instead of taping on the bolt ears, you might try inserting a wooden dowel down the barrel and taping on it to move the bolt, you should get a straighter blow and have less chance of damaging anything.
 

Cholo

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6gun said:
Just call Ruger tell them what happened and make them give you a return label to ship it back and have them fix it, it's a new gun so you don't have to screw around making it work make Ruger do it.
You must be every business' Customer From Hell :mrgreen:
 

300kph

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
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Well, heated it up with a very hot blow dryer... could not handle it bare-handed. Yanked and tapped with wood on the bolt ears and nada. Still stuck tight.

Have not tried the dowel down the barrel but if everything I did so far did not work I would be surprised. Exactly what will the dowel down the barrel come into contact with? Anything that can be damaged?

I don't have any doweling and may pick some up. Gonna' call Ruger Canada and see what they say. I am just worried they might end up reefing on it and sending it back damaged. I've had that happen with watches and other expensive stuff. Just sayin'

My friend said to take it back and demand a new one. HE is the customer from Hell!

Will keep you posted.

This would make a great testimonial for Loctite. And it's only the blue.

W
 
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Running a dowel down the barrel won't be a problem. The dowel will contact the bolt face and you shouldn't have concerns about hurting the bolt face with a wooden dowel. Remember that in the uncocked position (trigger has been pulled and hammer dropped) to move the bolt is not just the recoil spring but the hammer spring also so it might take a pretty good whack. Again, what you are bearing against is pretty dang strong, a fired round recoils against it so hitting it with a wooden dowel should be fine.
 
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A buddy of mine got his bolt stuck once. Not sure what caused it, but a GOOD whack on an outers solid brass cleaning rod got the bolt unstuck real quick. Sending it to Ruger was a last resort and figured if we broke it (worse than it already was) we would send it back to Ruger anyway.
 
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