Bolt stuck in open position, Mk II 22/45

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WhiskeyBravo

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Had fired a couple of magazines, loaded another magazine, pulled the bolt back and it is stuck in the open position. The bolt stop moves freely. Safety feels normal. Trigger moves freely. The latch springs out about half an inch and not anymore. The bolt can move about an additional 1/32" back and returns.
Any Ideas?
I had thought about pushing out the sear and hammer pivot pins. Any opinions of doing such?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Dan in MI

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First question - Has there been ANY non factory work done?

Off the top of my head with the bolt that far back I would look at the ejector. Bent/ twisted/misaligned.

A picture showing the insides could help.
 

WhiskeyBravo

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First question - Has there been ANY non factory work done?

Off the top of my head with the bolt that far back I would look at the ejector. Bent/ twisted/misaligned.

A picture showing the insides could help.
I've only replaced the firing pin and that was years ago. I had the barrel threaded a couple of months (and over 500 rounds) ago but don't see how that could affect the operational parts the pistol.
The ejector doesn't appear to be the problem as it appears fine and in line with its groove. To be as immovable as it is, the ejector would have to be broken in all probability. I'll try to get some pics of it soon.
 

Dan in MI

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If I understand your original post correctly, the bolt is stuck further back than the bolt stop, so the lever is free to move. - Correct?

If that is true, then there is very little left to hold the bolt back that should be there. Don't pull the mainspring. In a cocked condition it just locks things up.

At this point I'm thinking dirt, debris, or a broken recoil spring assembly.

If you take a soft faced hammer (leather, rubber, plastic) and tap on the bolt will it go forward?

Last second thought. Is the hammer up and in the way?
 

WhiskeyBravo

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If I understand your original post correctly, the bolt is stuck further back than the bolt stop, so the lever is free to move. - Correct?

If that is true, then there is very little left to hold the bolt back that should be there. Don't pull the mainspring. In a cocked condition it just locks things up.

At this point I'm thinking dirt, debris, or a broken recoil spring assembly.

If you take a soft faced hammer (leather, rubber, plastic) and tap on the bolt will it go forward?

Last second thought. Is the hammer up and in the way?
The latch lever only comes out half an inch under spring tension. It doesn't want to come out any further, I had tried to tug on it.
I tried to bump the bolt forward with the heel of my palm and there was no movement. I'll try a hammer later when I get back to it.
The hammer isn't up. The bolt is in the way. That's why I thought of removing the hammer pin so as to take the tension off of the mainspring then remove the lever. But should I remove the sear pin first? Or should I even pursue this course of action at all?
 

Dan in MI

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With mainspring still in place I don’t see any place for the hammer to go. I’ll bet something a little harder than your hand will move the bolt. If you get it back into battery then tear it apart. I would do it over something to catch anything that falls out.
 

Dave Schwaab

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As I posted in another thread:

"I remember the time I did something dumb with my 22/45, the original Mark II version, and the whole thing locked up solid. Nothing would move at all! I can't remember now what I did wrong, but I fixed it by pushing every pin out of the gun and dumping the internals on the table. Then I put the gun back together from that bare frame and it all worked perfectly again.

While I was at it, I made sure to leave the ball detent and spring out of the bolt stop, so that I could slingshot the bolt on a fresh mag instead of having to use the bolt release. Glad I did that mod."

My gun was an original Mark II style 22/45, like yours. I didn't pay any attention to the order, I just pushed every single pin I could see out of the gun and dumped everything on the table. Then (AND HERE'S THE IMPORTANT PART), I went to this website:


There you will find complete step-by-step instructions, with photo illustrations, on every aspect of maintenance for the Mark II and Mark III 22/45s.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 

WhiskeyBravo

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As I posted in another thread:

"I remember the time I did something dumb with my 22/45, the original Mark II version, and the whole thing locked up solid. Nothing would move at all! I can't remember now what I did wrong, but I fixed it by pushing every pin out of the gun and dumping the internals on the table. Then I put the gun back together from that bare frame and it all worked perfectly again.

While I was at it, I made sure to leave the ball detent and spring out of the bolt stop, so that I could slingshot the bolt on a fresh mag instead of having to use the bolt release. Glad I did that mod."

My gun was an original Mark II style 22/45, like yours. I didn't pay any attention to the order, I just pushed every single pin I could see out of the gun and dumped everything on the table. Then (AND HERE'S THE IMPORTANT PART), I went to this website:


There you will find complete step-by-step instructions, with photo illustrations, on every aspect of maintenance for the Mark II and Mark III 22/45s.

Hope this helps.

Dave
Hi Dave-
Thanks! I'll get on this!
Bill!
 

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