Blackhawk cylinder latch

[Yosemite Sam]

I recently took the grip frame off my Lipsey's .44 Special, which is based on the Anniversary model, with the new reverse pawl, lock, etc.

Upon reassembly everything works except that the cylinder latch won't drop when I open the loading gate. It drops when I move the hammer back, but not the gate. Also, when the pawl comes up it feels sort of "crunchy", like something is definitely not right.

Any ideas what I missed? Both the pawl spring and the latch plunger appeared to be in place.

-- Sam

 

[flatgate]

You probably have the loading gate's spring in wrong. It's kinda sharp tip needs to "nest" up against the loading gate's pivot stem. Rotating the gate open depresses that long spring. The spring pushes down on the "post" that protrudes from the cylinder latch which makes the latch drop and free up the cylinder.

Pulling the hammer back from the at rest position causes the hammer plunger to contact the cylinder latch's "leg" which pivots the latch on the trigger pin and causes it to unlock the cylinder for rotation.

There will be a "pop quiz" early on Wed.



flatgate

 

[Yosemite Sam]

Thanks Flatgate.

The problem is, if I put that sharp tip against the loading gate's pivot stem, the loading gate won't open at all. It's as if the spring is locking it in place. It all looks right, but my choice seems to be a latch that won't drop or a gate that won't open. Obviously I'm doing something wrong, but can't see what.

On another note: How do you depress the end of the trigger spring such that you can tuck it under the shelf on the trigger? The manual makes it sound so easy. I keep having to pull the pin and then try to reseat the spring under tension. I simply can't get a screwdriver in there to depress it while moving the grip frame into position.

-- Sam

 

[flatgate]

I use a somewhat small screwdriver to push the "loop" end of the NM trigger spring up while the grip frame is being slid onto the cylinder frame. Keep the "long ends" of the trigger spring "unattached" to the retainer pin, as well.

One trick is to toss aside the hammer, pawl, cylinder latch and transfer bar and practice..........

flatgate

 

[Yosemite Sam]

Thanks, Carl. I got it all working. Indeed, via "practice" I learned that the pivot screw has to be all the way in before the gate will open. I had it right earlier after all, just not fully assembled.

Wow, I've got to admit, I think S&W double actions are easier to work on! Either that, or I shouldn't try doing these things in the middle of 12 hour workdays.

-- Sam

 

[flatgate]

The NM lockwork can be "pesky" but, with increased familiarity it's "no big thing"!



I'm glad to hear you got it figured out.

flatgate

 

[Yosemite Sam]

No kidding. I've worked on SAA clones too, and those are down right simple compared to the NM lockwork. Are the OMs closer in design to a SAA? I know the loading/cocking/half cock sequence is similar.

-- Sam

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Trick:

Leave the NM trigger spring completely out of the gun until you have the grip frame reinstalled and all those little bits and pieces properly aligned.

Then slip the trigger spring into place, push the pin in, and hook up the "legs".

Works for me.

 

[flatgate]

Are the OMs closer in design to a SAA? I know the loading/cocking/half cock sequence is similar.

-- Sam

Yes, similar, but without the Colt's "bolt spring" (which Ruger uses on their conversion kit lockwork) since Ruger exclusively uses coil springs in the OM and NM lockwork.

Here's a rather "busy" image of the NM Lockwork.

This image shows the OM parts and the Conversion Kit parts. Note the flat "bolt" spring and it's actuator on the side of the hammer... very similar to the SAA.

flatgate