"Best" handloads for Ruger LC 45 carbine

[wjkeaney]

Hello, new member here, from NH. Recently bought an LC 45 carbine---which, so far, I'm really, really liking---with only about 200 rounds through it thusfar. Am looking to find some good handloads for it, preferably getting up to 900-1000 f/s, assuming that it makes sense to do so. I have a bunch of Hornady 230 gr. XTPs that I'd like to put together, for home-defense purposes. Also have several hundred 230 gr. FMJ's just waiting to be loaded. What powders would be optimal for taking advantage of the 16+" barrel, over the 5" pistol barrel? Thank you!

 

[GunnyGene]

Hello, new member here, from NH. Recently bought an LC 45 carbine---which, so far, I'm really, really liking---with only about 200 rounds through it thusfar. Am looking to find some good handloads for it, preferably getting up to 900-1000 f/s, assuming that it makes sense to do so. I have a bunch of Hornady 230 gr. XTPs that I'd like to put together, for home-defense purposes. Also have several hundred 230 gr. FMJ's just waiting to be loaded. What powders would be optimal for taking advantage of the 16+" barrel, over the 5" pistol barrel? Thank you!

Can't help with reloading info, since I don't reload. But the gun really likes +P ammo if you're looking for 1100+fps out of it depending on bullet weight. I haven't seen much on-line about reloading for the LC45, but there's probably a few folks out there experimenting with it.

Maybe this will help:

The Ruger LC Carbine Goes 45 Auto Part II Ruger approved 45 Auto +P, and the not so much Ruger approved 45 Super – Real Guns

realguns.com

Screen shot of table from above link:

 

[wjkeaney]

Can't help with reloading info, since I don't reload. But the gun really likes +P ammo if you're looking for 1100+fps out of it depending on bullet weight. I haven't seen much on-line about reloading for the LC45, but there's probably a few folks out there experimenting with it.

Maybe this will help:

The Ruger LC Carbine Goes 45 Auto Part II Ruger approved 45 Auto +P, and the not so much Ruger approved 45 Super – Real Guns

realguns.com

Screen shot of table from above link:

View attachment 56560

Thanks, Gunny, I appreciate it.

 

[GunnyGene]

Thanks, Gunny, I appreciate it.

You're welcome. Some of the loads in that table are unbelievably hot. If you go that route, I'd recommend putting a good muzzle brake on your gun. I have one on mine, and it does help reduce recoil and muzzle rise with the +P factory ammo (Underwood in my case).

 

[Drayks]

With my Ruger LC 45 PCC, I use SMALL primer BLAZER or FEDERAL brass and CCI #41 SMALL RIFLE MILITARY PRIMERS (223/5.56) so I can readily tell ammo apart from pistol loads with LARGE primer brass. For powder I use LONGSHOT or CFE PISTOL. Have fun developing loads with different bullets, Hodgdon LOAD DATA is helpful too for online resource. drayks

 

[Ale-8(1)]

With my Ruger LC 45 PCC, I use SMALL primer BLAZER or FEDERAL brass and CCI #41 SMALL RIFLE MILITARY PRIMERS (223/5.56) so I can readily tell ammo apart from pistol loads with LARGE primer brass.

^^^ Good thinking ^^^

I'd be tempted to mark the hot ones with red marker all over the primer end of the round.

 

[wjkeaney]

Drayks,
Thanks for your info. Sounds like a good idea using brass with small primers, for differentiation's sake. I have to ask,, though---why do you use the small rifle military primers? Is that something you've found some data on?

 

[Drayks]

The #41 primers have harder cups to resist firing pin dimpling and accidental discharge in M16/M4/AR15 floating firing pin mechanisms. The use of small primers gives more over-pressure safety than large primers, and the #41s are MAGNUM rated for using with SLOWER or MORE powder for RIFLE loads. The small pistol and rifle primers are the same dimensions, LARGE pistol and rifle primers are NOT same dimensions, rifle being longer. Hope that helps. drayks

 

[greenmtnguy]

I don't have a carbine but Green Dot (good luck finding that now) and CFE pistol both give me good velocity and accuracy with clean shooting/low residue

 

[wjkeaney]

Drayks,
Thanks for the crystal-clear reply; sounds like something a technical writer would have written! I was unaware of the height difference between large pistol and rifle primers (only rifle-calibers I've ever loaded being .30-30 and .243, many years ago.)
Another question, though (never having gotten deeply into comparative reloading, testing, chrono-ing, etc.---just enough to being safe and keeping my supply of practice and defensive 9 mm, .357 mag., and .45 Auto ammunition at reasonable levels,) how does the use of #41, or small primers in general, guard against the greater potential of over-pressure posed by large primers? Not questioning your knowledge here, but always just trying to learn something new. Thanks.

 

[wjkeaney]

Greenmtnguy,
(Shouldn't you be a Vermonter? Or maybe you were... )
Thanks for the powder info. What are you using them in?

 

[Drayks]

If you make max pressure 45 AUTO loads for your RIFLE +P(23,000psi) there is a loading of 552 pounds on the SMALL primer cup and 796 pounds on the LARGE primer cups. AREA=(PI)(radius)(radius) / small primer cup area =.024 sq in / large primer cup area=.0346 sq in (times the pressure) equals cup loading pressure. The base of the brass case is considerably thicker than the primer cup metal which is the thinner part and the weakest link. It is hard to think that the pressure of combustion goes back through the flash hole to the primer cup. Aren't primers just little miracle workers? drayks

 

[wjkeaney]

Wow; you're bringing me back to high school geometry: A=Pi r squared! Blast from the past, cobwebs and all! Seriously, that makes sense to me. Being a conservative guy, in many/most ways, I'm not likely to exceed or even push maximum levels in anything I load. I like keeping my eyesight and face intact as long as possible. But I take your point. But, if I should approach maximum powder loading/pressure levels, I should definitely watch for primer base bulging/flattening/perforating, etc. I won't ask what weight CFE or Longshot you use, but did you have a source (as, from an ammo-loading or powder company), that you used as a guideline for your own loads? Or is it something you worked up yourself? [Are you sure you're not a powder company employee?]

 

[greenmtnguy]

Greenmtnguy,
(Shouldn't you be a Vermonter? Or maybe you were... )
Thanks for the powder info. What are you using them in?

I am originally from VT, but moved to NH about 25 years ago. I have a Ruger Blackhawk convertible I shoot 45 ACP in, plus a Taurus TH 45, and am shopping for 1911s these days.

 

[WanderLust]

I'd echo the red marker on the primer end of things! We used to mark just the primer itself years ago and slipped some hot Ruger-Only rounds into a Smith. We learned our lesson and marked the entire ends after that, and never mixed our reloads up again.

 

[Drayks]

A lot of reloading manuals list RIFLE ONLY data for 357 and 44 (single shot, lever action, and bolt action rifles). If you reload for the increasingly popular PCCs, there just isn't RIFLE data for 45 AUTO and 9 PARABELLUM. The 9mm already operates at 33,000 psi. so you can't jack that up before you eat brass. The 45 Auto can be brought up to +P levels IN A RIFLE by using SMALL RIFLE PRIMERS AND CASES and the use of slower powders than 45 AUTO pistol normal loadings. Of course, LEAD bullets are out, too much velocity and I would advise against PLATED for rifle only loadings. There has been other loading data generated for 45 AUTO+P, 45 SUPER and 450 SMC, but again for pistols--SHORTER BARRELS, LESS BURN TIME. I do use a Chronograph to see what powder and charge weight effects are, but here you are on your own. I do load Hornady 230 grain HAP and XTP bullets, and am experimenting with COPPER 135 grain Lehighs. DO NOT expect to see reliable pressure signs for pistol loadings, by that time you are WAY PAST safe. I do agree with WANDERLUST for safely segregating loads, just for peace of mind. I also use the colored plastic boxes for ammo storage and YES, the red ones are rifle loads with labels. As stated previously, online HODGDON load data is a good starting point as well as BURN RATE CHARTS which are NOT absolute. drayks

 

[Siringo]

I've shot 185's, 200 swc's and 230's. The 185's and 200's were previously assembled lead pistol loads. Worked like a champ, fed flawlessly. The edge in accuracy is with the 185's. But lately I have been using 230's with 6 grains of Unique. Velocity is around 1,000
FPS. Accuracy at 50 yards is around 2 inches. I use CCI large pistol.

I have had and continue to have first round lower velocity than the rest of the magazine. Right now the key is powder that occupies the most volume in the case. At least 80%. All I have on had to work with was unique. This is still a work in progress.

 

[wjkeaney]

Drayks & Siringo, Thank you for the great information! As I said initially, what I have on hand are 230 gr. FMJs and XTPs. Enough to get me going. Also have a good supply of Unique, so will probably do some rounds with it. Velocity around 1000 f/s, and accuracy of about 2" at 50 yds. is definitely good enough for my main purpose! Though later, I'm thinking I'd probably want to look for a somewhat slower-burning powder.

Now, about using those 36-year-old primers.......? Kept in a climate-controlled safe, between 50-65 degrees F., 30-45% RH.....anyone have experience using older primers of that approximate vintage??

 

[Drayks]

I just finished using some Herter's primers made in JAPAN in 1973. Powder was $4/lb. I bought a bunch when I just started reloading. NO problems properly stored. I looked up 45 Auto load data in Lyman's 51st Manual. 230 grain jacketed bullet, MAX load of LONGSHOT 7.0 grains 17,000 CUP in 5 inch barrel 922fps for pistol loading. Rifle velocity would be quite a bit higher. drayks

 

[Siringo]

One thing I've found to maintain that accuracy is the use the same brand of cases. Using mixed headstamps is OK for close pistol shooting, but it doesn't work well with longer ranges, especially with heavier bullets.