Bearcat Help Needed

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Redhawk91454

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Messages
4
Just acquired a nice old model Bearcat. All original lockwork, no conversion kit installed. Serial number 16xxx. While removing the cylinder, the base pin was EXTREMELY hard to remove. Got it out and the head of base pin had evidence of "plier assistance". Polished basepin as needed to remove plier jaw marks. Base pin drops smoothly through the cylinder, no binding. Base pin goes through the front of the frame and goes into the rear of the frame and the pin latch retains it like it should. Try to install the cylinder and basepin together and I can only get the pin partway into the cylinder before it starts to bind up. Thanks for any and all help/suggestions with this "frustration". Longtime reader and first time posting.
 

Fox Mike

Hawkeye
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
9,986
Just a suggestion. Lay a straightedge on the pin and see if it is absolutely straight. Even a very slight 'bend' would cause the problem you described.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,018
Frank has a good idea.

Also,, sometimes,, the alignment of the cylinder & frame can be slightly off. Not an easy thing to fix.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
7,775
simply roll the base pin across a flat surface, even a pane of glass and look for a "wooble" any bend will jump out at you........check the inside of the cylinder's pin hole, also for any pits or sludge, gunk, dried up oil, etc......
 

Redhawk91454

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Messages
4
Thank you Fox Mike, contender, and rugerguy for your replies. Pin was checked and was straight. All passage ways were clean. I believe contender was correct on a cylinder to frame alignment issue. Contacted Ruger today and it will be going back for repair. Will be converted to transfer bar upgrade kit. It is what it is. My grandsons will be able to enjoy a safe and functional firearm. Thanks again!
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,018
Make sure they return the parts they remove.
Also,, if they say "It can't be fixed" & offer you a replacement,, I'd refuse it & say you want your gun back, as is.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,716
Pull out the cyl and the cyl pin. Now push the pin release button in while looking thru the pin hole. Look thru the pin hole with good light; you should not see any of the button extending into the pin hole.
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,171
Make sure you're trying to insert the cylinder and pin with the hammer on half-cock so the bolt is down out of the way. While attempting to slip the pin into place, rotate the cylinder clockwise (seen from the rear) and just kinda wiggle everything. Yeah, takes three hands because ya gotta be holding the pin latch button depressed all the while. This works for me with "difficult" reassemblies. Good luck. :)
 

Redhawk91454

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Messages
4
A good friend, who owns/operates a "brick and mortar" gun store wanted to look at my Bearcat after telling him about my problem. He's familiar with Colt and Ruger single action revolvers. He also tried to assemble the cylinder and pin into the Bearcat with no luck. He was looking at the cylinder and noticed a very faint line around the cylinder, similar to a bolt stop "drag line", but more to the front of the cylinder. Turns out the front screw that attaches the trigger guard was protruding very slightly into the cylinder opening of the frame. Tip of screw was preventing proper alignment of cylinder necessary to install the base pin. Trim the screw, problem solved. No trip to Ruger service department needed. Thanks again for all your replies to help me get this corrected. Neither of us had ever run into a situation like this, created by the slightly longer screw length.
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,171
Now that's one I'd not heard of. Good to know for future reference.

I've heard of the rear sight screw protruding onto the cylinder before, but not the one you ran into. Congrats on your fix. :mrgreen:
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,716
Check all 5 of your Bearcat grip strap screws and you’ll find the short screw that’s supposed to go in that front hole.

Although in one case the hole in front of the trigger guard was counter bored too deeply. Does the screw head sit deep in the hole, like below flush?
 

Redhawk91454

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Messages
4
The screw sets in the counter bored hole as it should. That's what made this issue such a puzzler. I'm just surprised I didn't notice the cylinder line. It is very faint but visible if you look for it. Just glad the issue is corrected. Thanks again for any and all responses!
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,171
Hondo44 said:
Check all 5 of your Bearcat grip strap screws and you’ll find the short screw that’s supposed to go in that front hole.


On the Bearcat there's only one screw involved, the one used to affix the trigger guard to the bottom of the frame, the screw involved here.

There is no separate grip frame here, as there is on all other Ruger single-actions, so there are no related screws to get confused with upon reassembly. :wink:
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,716
Ale-8(1) said:
Hondo44 said:
Check all 5 of your Bearcat grip strap screws and you’ll find the short screw that’s supposed to go in that front hole.


On the Bearcat there's only one screw involved, the one used to affix the trigger guard to the bottom of the frame, the screw involved here.

There is no separate grip frame here, as there is on all other Ruger single-actions, so there are no related screws to get confused with upon reassembly. :wink:

But of course, what was I thinking? Sorry, getting old. Only a potential problem on the other Ruger and other brand single actions.
 
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