Anyone trim handgun brass?

[turd]

I've reloaded a couple of thousand rounds of .41 Mag, and so far have not bothered to measure and trim the brass. Should I be? Is there any advantage to having all the rounds the exact same length? Or is it that as long as they chamber well there should be no issues?

 

[dannyd]

Only pistol brass that gets an advantage from trimming is Full Wadcutter rounds. Trimming gives you the most unformed crimp when precision is most critical.

Most revolver brass with split before it grows long enough to need trimming.

 

[turd]

Thanks, that's what I thought. Just checking for sure.

 

[Mobuck]

Most of my handgun reloading is 9mm using once fired brass. Lose a majority of the cases on firing. Haven't trimmed any handgun brass except to shorten split mouth 357.

 

[Enigma]

I have trimmed revolver brass just enough to insure that the case mouth is square - after firing it once or twice. That gives you a uniform crimp. I only do this on 'rocks and dynamite' loads, to prevent (or mitigate) bullet pull from recoil. You must have adequate neck tension, though, or you'll have firmly crimped bullets that spin in the case.

 

[contender]

This is one of the discussions that can often go on for days.

In general,, most do not trim brass in straight walled cases.

However,, a uniform crimp is desired.
Even new brass can vary in length.
Generally speaking if you trim it once to uniform length, you don't have to trim again. But,, as with anything,, sometimes there are exceptions.

For the very serious accuracy people,,, trimming to uniform length is a key step, AND using virgin brass to get the best neck tension.
But for most casual shooters,, they do not notice the differences between the two.

 

[turd]

This is one of the discussions that can often go on for days.

In general,, most do not trim brass in straight walled cases.

However,, a uniform crimp is desired.
Even new brass can vary in length.
Generally speaking if you trim it once to uniform length, you don't have to trim again. But,, as with anything,, sometimes there are exceptions.

For the very serious accuracy people,,, trimming to uniform length is a key step, AND using virgin brass to get the best neck tension.
But for most casual shooters,, they do not notice the differences between the two.

Thanks, Contender. I was on the Lee Precision site and noticed the case trimming items and that they had such for handgun brass. I was tempted to order such because some of my brass has been loaded 6 times. I thought perhaps it should be trimmed or why would they have such an extensive array of equipment to do so? Your reply makes sense to me. I am a casual shooter, but do look for accuracy with my loads. I think I will try trimming just to see how much variation there is on different brass and on several times reloaded brass.

Again, thanks to all who have posted here, I do appreciate your thoughts and experience.

 

[Rclark]

I've not trimmed handgun straight walled cases, only rifle cases. Some of my cases have been loaded +20 times. I don't worry about trimming. Accurate enough for me. What I watch for though is of course mouth splits (toss) and neck tension. Is a bullet seats 'really' easy, or I can twist the bullet in the brass with my hand, time to toss. I also toss brass when the rim gets really rough. Another words when you have to work at it to fit in the shell holder (doesn't slip in easy as new case would). Also time to toss. If I can get at least 10-15 loads out of a case -- great! Beyond that is a bonus. Speaking of that, I try to 'test' loads with brass that hasn't been loaded more than 4 or 5 times to hopefully have better consistent case tension on the bullets.

 

[contender]

I learned LONG ago, that for optimal accuracy,, especially when shooting 100 yds or more,, I wanted to make sure I had removed any potential mechanical issues as possible.
I would buy & use new brass,, all uniformly trimmed, as my top level accuracy loads. Neck tension and uniform crimping was part of the equation.
And after using other brass to get "close" to my desired level,, I'd switch to this new ammo. After it's first firing,, that brass is delegated to the "other" brass category,, to be used to work up loads, or build practice loads.
When hunting,, and the game may be beyond 100 yds,, and you NEED proper bullet placement,, added to the often fact of "less than a bench" shooting position,, you want to have the best ammo you can.
But most of my casual practice & casual shooting is done with brass that's trimmed, then fired several times w/o any further work to it.
So, as I like to say; "Trimming brass? Well, it all depends upon your desires!"

 

[Ka6otm]

This is one of the discussions that can often go on for days.

In general,, most do not trim brass in straight walled cases.

However,, a uniform crimp is desired.
Even new brass can vary in length.
Generally speaking if you trim it once to uniform length, you don't have to trim again. But,, as with anything,, sometimes there are exceptions.

For the very serious accuracy people,,, trimming to uniform length is a key step, AND using virgin brass to get the best neck tension.
But for most casual shooters,, they do not notice the differences between the two.

The Lee Factory Crimp Die will give you a uniform crimp on all cases regardless of length. That's one of the reasons it was invented.

 

[Rclark]

When hunting,, and the game may be beyond 100 yds,,

Consider a rifle at that point . I don't handgun hunt, but in my mind, handgun hunting is in same catagory as bow hunting. A 'real' hunt where you get almost in touching distance before letting loose instead of lobbing bullets out to 100-500 yards. Ha!

 

[contender]

Generally I agree that many people should keep handgun hunting under 100 yds. BUT,,, many of us practice a lot,, know how to properly shoot at longer distances,, AND are willing to pass on a less than good presentation. Remember,, handgun silhouette shooters shoot at 200 meters AND have to knock down a heavy steel target.
I have personally taken an elk at 156 yds,, with a single shot Contender, with a heart shot,, also with a 20-30 degree uphill angle. The elk did not run, it fell right there. I have also taken quite a few whitetails at distances over 100 yds with a handgun.
BUT,,, I also pass on a lot of shots if I do not think I can make a clean ethical kill. Biggest whitetail I ever had in my sights locally was allowed to walk. He never presented me with the type of shot I needed. He was also within 40 yds of me at one point.

I understand the thoughts about getting closer & all. Heck, I teach hunter safety,, but I stress the fact you need to make sure you can honor the animal with a clean ethical killing shot.

And if you really want to see a great study on handgun hunting,, read the story of our own "sixshot" on his African safari,, where he took 3 animals with a handgun. Including a Cape Buffalo. His Zebra dropped in it's tracks so fast,, the PH didn't see it fall. (And there were several other people in his camp who used rifles & lost or wounded game to where it had to be tracked long distances.)

There are MANY of us who enjoy handgun hunting,, and we strive to be the best we can at it.

My point being is a rifle is not the "magic" firearm. It's just a tool, just as a handgun is. It's HOW it's used & how a hunter approaches the hunt. And many, many handguns and their hunters are very capable of serious hunting beyond 100 yds.