Another handgun reloading question....

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GasGuzzler

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I use them in all my handgun loads as well as .223/5.56

They won't fix what the OP is posting about though.
Correct. Rifle FCD and pistol FCD aren't the same and don't do the same things.
"They won't fix what the OP is posting about though."
They did on my 9mm loads.
9mm cases are tapered. .41 Magnum is straight wall.

Several things to consider. Bullet profile is "long" for the case (the brass gets thicker as you go from the mouth to the head). The bullet is fat. The dies are under-sizing...those mostly won't hurt anything. Neck size as suggested above.

I like the Lee FCD and use it for pistol and rifle but it won't fix the bulged brass.
 

harley08

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Nearly all, if not all, of my revolver reloads have that bulge. I also use RCBS dies. I'm about to load 200 357's for the 20th time and then the brass will be retired. The bulge hasn't effected the case life, though NickA is correct in that theoretically it could shorten case life.

One thing's for sure, our cases have one hell of a grip on those bullets LOL
Next time Reload them light as .38 specials.
and use them this way until the brass cracks, them sell them as scrap to a metal recycler.
 
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I run into the same thing using RCBS dies and the Lee FCD. Unless it creates a problem chambering or is so obvious and extreme as to be unable to overlook, I don't worry about it. I've come to believe that neck tension is as critical as the crimp.
Most of my "good" brass (known history) has been loaded 5 times or less and no neck splitting. My "trash" brass (unknown history and light loads only) have been my only splits. Neck splits in nickle brass. I'm talking straight wall pistol brass here.
When it comes to rifle brass; I'm contiually using my Wilson case guage.
KRuger
 

Cholo

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Next time Reload them light as .38 specials.
and use them this way until the brass cracks, them sell them as scrap to a metal recycler.
They have been loaded light for most of their life--3 grs of Bullseye and a 150 gr wadcutter. That's pretty darn light. They're being retired because the primer pockets are starting to get loose. It takes very little effort to seat the primers.

Second: Old, as in the 70's, Winchester nickel 357 brass is really good brass! I still have some of it unloaded. Unfortunately, it seems to be thicker than Starline brass and I don't believe it's only the nickel coating. None of it will fit in my Ruger Old Model Flattops, though it plunks right into other 357's. Starline loaded brass plunks right into my old FT's. Hmmm...
 

rotor

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I ammo check everything I load. If it's good it gets shot. I have never had a cartridge with the slight bullet bulge that didn't pass the ammo checker. I use Lee dies and a FCD if they make one.
 

Ride1949

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For that nickel coated, or thicker brass cases, Lee makes undersize case sizer die. (I prefer the carbide dies) They work pretty good.

 
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Cholo

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↑ I don't see how that would work for the instances we're talking about. As soon as I seat my .358 bullet it will expand the brass to exactly the same width as if I'd used my standard carbide sizing die.

Am I missing something?
 

Ride1949

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Nope. Didn't notice you were using .358 bullets. You're right. It wouldn't make any difference.
 
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