.38/.357 case sorting

[Lost Sheep]

originally posted by Merlinspop
Anyway, was wondering how should I segregate the cases? Obviously, keep the .357 and .38spl apart, but beyond that, is a case a case? ...is it accurate to assume that the cases are new (well, once fired by me, that is)?
(edited for brevity)
Thanks!

Merlinspop,

Welcome to the forum.

I bought my first gun (Dan Wesson .357) over 30 years ago and bought my first loading setup the same week. I knew I couldn't afford to shoot much if I didn't reload.

I used to keep every 50 cartridges together. That way, I knew how many times any cartridge (set of 50) had been fired. I loaded 50 at a time all identically. Inside the lid of the boxes was a slip of paper (like Pal Val described, but mine were all kept together from the original purchase) with the loading history of that lot of brass (powder, charge, bullet, primer). I quit doing that when I started shooting semiautos (the batches kept coming up short and getting mixed together from being tossed on the ground). Recordkeeping so detailed makes sense for rifle shooters on the hunt for supreme accuracy. For handgunners of my modest ability, it doesn't make sense.

I do sort by headstamp (because the internal volume of cartridges of different manufacturers may be different, and that translates to pressure differences). Most of .357 Mag shooting is decidedly mid-range or lower so I am being a little over-cautious. (Read GaSidewinder's post for a better discussion.)

Separating the cases by headstamp is good if it appeals to your sense of order (it does to mine) but if you are not seeking ultimate consistency in your loads and not pushing the envelope for power levels, probably not necessary. But I recommend it anyway. Also, if you can keep batches of 50 together, you know if one case is showing signs of wearing out (brittle, cracked case mouth or loose primer pocket) the other 49 are to be suspect, also.

How to tell for sure if brass is once-fired? Buy it new. Up until 18 months ago, all my brass was purchased as loaded factory rounds. But I have picked up some from the range, been given some by non-reloaders and even bought some (supposedly) once-fired brass for a good price last year.

originally posted by MADISON
AMERICAN HANDGUNNER Magazine did a thing several years ago.
They found there is no need to sort handgun brass for accuracy.
Seperate the .38 Special from .357 brass and DO NOT load .357 in 38 Special brass or .38 Special in .357 brass.

With the exception of one box of 50, none of my .357s have ever even seen a 38 Special. I load 38 Special power levels in .357 cases all the time. This is a dangerous practice with slow powders, but not dangerous with fast powders like Unique or Bullseye. Besides there are no recipes in the manuals for low speed loadings for those powders anyway.

Having given my testimony, I will also give this caveat:

Remember, only believe half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for what you get from the internet. Even this post.

Do your own independent, confirming research when ANYONE gives you new facts on the web.

Also remember, even the idiotic stuff might have a kernel of truth buried in there somewhere.

 

[Sturgell]

A general rule, at the ranges I've been to, is that if it hits the ground, it belongs to the range. They don't cotton to folks picking up brass off the ground. They have no problem with you keeping yours, just empty your cylinder in your own can.... If you have a semi and want to keep brass, better get a bag.

Huh.
The range I go to doesnt care at all. The guy running it even told me to pick up all the brass I wanted because theyd have to sweep it up and toss it anyway.

You should give him 100 or more dollars every time he fills a 55 gallon drum. Sort and sell, you can make pretty good hobby money off of that alone.