That's fixed sights, cast bullets. 38+p.
I own an OM Ruger .357 6.5" Blackhawk (from 1965), it has a hair trigger. I did not make any mods to it - it came that way. I barely touch the trigger, and it goes off! I have never actuallly measured the ull, but I have to guess that it is less than 2 lbs.Where do you find these guns?Every single one of my NM SA Rugers (and I have quite a few) have/had at least 4# to 6# trigger pulls with very discernible creep. I've had to do the poor man's trigger job on some and then professionally tuned on others for acceptable trigger action. I just acquired a MKIV Hunter a while back. Worst trigger yet. At least 6# to release the trigger. I have just ordered an accurizing kit for it to get it down to ~2# (so they say). My old Mark II was 'ok' from the factory which is about the only one that was acceptable.
This looks like great shooting! I also own Ruger gp100 .357 MAG 6" revolver. At what distance were you shooting to get these great rsults?The only revolver you may find that will say it's designed for cast bullets would be a 19th century replica.
But most revolvers shot cast bullets well especially Rugers my GP and Blackhawks have over 150,000 cast bullets rounds on them. They all shoot about like this.
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That is what I call 'no leading'Also, I do not get any serious leading when shooting soft lead or hardened lead bullets. When I clean the gun after shooting lead bullets, there is a slight amount of lead in the barrel and the cylinder, but not any to be concenred about, or that would require a cleaning, although I do clean each after shooting with it.
I shoot between 25 and 50 yards most of the time with these. the target posted is @ 15 yards I was using the chronograph the 158 run 796 ft/s with an SD of 18 ft/s.This looks like great shooting! I also own Ruger gp100 .357 MAG 6" revolver. At what distance were you shooting to get these great rsults?
Hi again, but I was not asking about in general, but specifically what distance you shot to get that very tight grouping you showed in that pic.I shoot between 25 and 50 yards most of the time with these. the target posted is @ 15 yards I was using the chronograph the 158 run 796 ft/s with an SD of 18 ft/s.
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The one in the pic is just 15 yards I was trying not to shoot my chronograph, this one is 25 yardsHi again, but I was not asking about in general, but specifically what distance you shot to get that very tight grouping you showed in that pic.
Most handguns shoot better with a particular load. That's why I personally "optimize" my ammo to suit the individual gun.Only when you 'know' you have problem and/or the revolver is not shooting well. Then you must chase down the 'why'. However, there is 'nothing' wrong with wanting an 'optimized' revolver because those optimizations will 'never' hurt accuracy or cause leading, but can only help. I've optimized my .45 Colts for that very reason. Some required it, some I could have left alone ... but I know all shoot the best they can now. One of my original Vaqueros 'needed' it. I opened up the throats and cut the forcing cone to 11 degrees, and then firelapped it as well. My group size was cut in half and changed the POI. Worth it. No different that tuning a revolver... Not needed, but boy it can help tighten the groups a bit. Makes the gun even 'feel' better all around..... Win Win. Now, my New Model .357 flattop did not need optimizing. The bullet passed the throat with just finger pressure, so throats are good. And groups on target showed it too. No leading, so no real barrel restrictions, all good. Still had it 'tuned' of course. Each gun is different though.
That is a personal call of courseIf I have to ream out throats or make grinding noises on any part of it, then I simply don't want it.
Exactly.Some of us enjoy making them sing, instead of just having them speak their piece.