.22 GP100 hammer step material removal question

[dingode]

Can't get photobucket to work, but here is a google photo link.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QiLdx4CWWn7bldSJ2

I've read of some owners trimming down the step a few thousand's so the hammer will transfer more energy and give better ignition. Looking at the wear marks I'm thinking that doing this may help me some as the hammer/transfer bar contact looks to be very minimal. The RH side of the hammer looks to have a bad angle right were it contacts the transfer bar that is causing the LH side to make more contact.

This gun will be going back to Ruger soon for another issue I posted about in another thread. Should I ask Ruger to look at this issue too? I can remove material from the step myself, but I can't fix that weird angle on the contact portion of the hammer.

 

[arfmel]

If I was sending it back to Ruger I'd at least mention that to them and see if they will make an adjustment to it. Have you had any ignition failures you could mention to them as a reason to improve on the current situation?

 

[armabill]

Once you start altering a gun, the warranty is void. Send it back to Ruger with all of your concerns.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Does it fire every time you pull the trigger? If so, it's doing its job, and don't be surprised if Ruger tells you it "meets specs." I once read an article by Ross Seyfried in which he described taking apart a Bisley, straight out of the box, and being appalled at the fact the sides of the hammer were NOT ground flat and parallel to each other. He then put the hammer in a jig and squared up the faces addressed by the jig. It took a bit of work.

If Ruger didn't see fit to do that the first time, is it likely they'll do a better job at fixing it? If another hammer is available, I'd be inclined to leave the factory one as is, have the replacement properly fitted by a good pistolsmith, and go from there. Then if some other problem arises, the gun can be shipped back to the factory with the original hammer, keeping the fitted one at home.

As for warranty coverage, remember: Ruger has no written warranty, which is tantamount to saying they have no warranty at all. They've been playing this game of convincing folks they have wonderful customer service by fixing some of their screw ups for decades and a lot of people buy into that. For myself, I'd rather they just put a properly built product in the box the first time. Personal opinion, of course.

Rick C

 

[Dave P.]

Hi,
. For myself, I'd rather they just put a properly built product in the box the first time. Personal opinion, of course.
Rick C

It's cheaper to fix.....some....of them, than...all...of them!
Besides that, I'm guessing about 90 percent of their customers
just except what they get ( if they even realize the crappy quality ) vs.
screwing around and sending a gun back.

I don't really see a "issue" with the hammer transfer bar contact
pattern from the pictures. Yes it's not perfect, but this is not a real
highly precise part of the "machine". There's a lot of slop at that point
anyway.
Dave

 

[dingode]

Got the gun back from Ruger today. They replaced the crane, cylinder, hammer, transfer bar, firing pin, and trued up the throat. It looks like they put over 150 rounds through it of different makes and weights. They sent a picture of the test target.

The BC gap is now parallel and the BC gap is .003-.004, much tighter than the .007" to .009". I'm too tired to do it now, but I want to take it apart soon to get a good look at the firing pin to see if the tip is radiused or flat.

I had an optic on the gun that I took off before I sent it. I forgot to tell them that there was no need to replace the rear sight, so it came back with a new one installed. I noticed they are now using a roll pin instead of a solid pin to hold it in place. I guess I'll shoot the irons for a bit and see if I can hit anything before reinstalling the optic.

I hope to get it out this weekend to test it out.