1966 OM 41mag BlackHawk

[Chinook3]

Kind of a mix up at an on line auction left me the owner of a very nice 4 digit three screw Ruger Blackhawk in .41. - I t was supposed/advertised as a new model 44mag. It needed a good cleaning and oiling. Had a bunch of old grease in cracks and corners. Does seem the cylinder release button spring is stuck and needs adjusting. Action good and tight with a 4 5/8 in barrel. Does not appear to have been shot much and has been well treated for nearly 60 years.
Looks like a good pack gun!!

 

[JAYDAWG]

It cleaned up great!
More valuable than a NM 44 also.
Good score & welcome to the forum!

Cheers,
JAYDAWG

 

[Gator89]

I think you came out smelling like a rose on that "mess up".

 

[Chinook3]

Yes- i was pretty pleased!! It does have a transfer bar, however. This is the oldest Ruger in my group.

The serial # does not have a pre-fix -just 4 digits. Is that true on the older makes?

 

[JAYDAWG]

Ruger started with serial number 1 on all of their old models. That means there is a 357, two different 44's (a flattop and a super,) 30 carbine, single-six 22 cal, Hawkeye 256 mag, deerstalker, 10-22 and the standard semi-auto 22 cal pistol, that all have the same serial # as your 41 Mag!

Cheers,
JAYDAWG

 

[Chinook3]

I did not know that! I am thinking I will get a letter from Ruger as to their info on where started out.

 

[RoninPA]

^^^^^Smartest thing you could do. Then see if you can find the parts to revert it back to a true OM.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

As mentioned, Ruger started with serial number 1 when it introduced the .41 Magnum Blackhawk in 1965, thru 15967 in 1968. When it became necessary to add prefixes in 1969, Ruger assigned #40 to the .41 line, beginning with 40-00001, running thru 40-22906 in 1973, end of the Old Models.

Great find! There are fewer .41's in 4-5/8" than 6-1/2".

 

[G2]

Welcome to the 41 Cult…

Yes the guns made before the 1968 Gun Control Act were simple straight forward SN#'s.

Here is my 4 digit sn# 41M, and apparently I blacked out the last 2 of the 4… you get the drift.
Also has a few custom features that made it mine.

Hopefully you hand load because factory 41Mag loads are spendy….
And while you're at it,,, Starline is taking orders currently for 41 Special Brass, might want to get some while it available.
41 Special is what I use in this gun most of the time, very pleasurable and easy recoil.
If you don't know about 41 Special, just google it, and get ready for a education.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

My 6-1/2" four-digit .41 is also from 1966. It was my first centerfire Ruger, and has seen a lotta shooting. I learned reloading with it.

I later picked up a 1971 prefix 4-5/8" version, apparently unfired.

 

[Chinook3]

What is the monetary difference between those with the transfer bar and those without? Just off hand! Also is the barrel length unusual?

 

[G2]

OM original parts sell ~$150 +/- $25.
The 41 is a Large Frame Hammer,,, about 1/8" taller than the 357 medium frame.

Usually if it's been converted (like yours) minus ~ $200 +/- a little.

FWIW; your grips are NEW MODEL, XR3-RED. They work, just not even close to being correct. Not a big deal,,,
They would have been Walnut w/black bird medallions & w/ blue escutcheons & screw.
IMO the condition of your gun makes it a nice shooter, and I would grip it with what ever gets YOUR fancy.
Same with the action, the OM action is the way it was made, nice and original…
BUT the safety conversion does allow it to be carried with all 6 loaded up, like a New Model. Again do what works for you.

 

[hittman]

Best OM ever.
Perfect caliber and barrel length.
Congrats!

 

[rugerguy]

Good info above and one of the best of the lot, get the original style grips, as well as the proper OM lockwork and you will be in in OM heaven,,,good for you...

 

[mr.deerstalker]

I have the parts and grips...Mr. DS

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum Chinook3!

You've gotten a jewel there. I'd take mix-ups like that any day!

You can get the parts to restore it to it's "as shipped" original condition. It may cost a bit,, but it's worth it. The differences in the original action and the transfer bar safety is significant to many of us. The original action has a sweet feeling distinct 4 click action. BUT,,,,,,,, to be safe,, you never carry it with 6 rounds in the cylinder. In the OM's like that,, the firing pin can be in direct contact with the primer of a live round. And if struck hard,, it could discharge.
To properly load an OM,, you open the loading gate,, cock the hammer to the half-cock position. Insert (1) round, skip the next chamber, then load (4) chambers. Then fully cock the hammer, and slowly & carefully lower the hammer on an empty chamber. NEVER LOWER THE HAMMER FROM THE 1/2 COCK POSITION! That will cause the dreaded "cylinder ring" mark.
A transfer bar action,, which was offered free to anybody with any OM Ruger SA,, allows the gun to be fully loaded with (6) rounds as the gun has to be fully cocked & hammer locked back for the transfer bar to rise up enough to allow the hammer to hit the firing pin when the trigger is pulled. If you look at all the New Models,, you will see a "stepped" hammer. The original hammers were totally flat on their face. The biggest drawback of the converted OM's is the "feel" of the action. Nowhere nearly as sweet & smooth as an OM.

And to clarify a comment made above; "Ruger started with serial number 1 on all of their old models." This is not quite true. The OM .45 Colt Blackhawks were not made until AFTER the 1968 GCA where they all had to have a specific serial number. Ruger added a "prefix" to their guns after that law was passed in 1968. The OM 45's were first made in 1971.

 

[mr.deerstalker]

Rumor has it, the old model 45 came out in 1970, with only 500 made that year, note, also they where the only ones with black eagles in the grips. (last year) starting in 1971 went silver. less 45 om made (under 22000) then the 44 flat top.... 28515 made (1956 thru 1962)...just what the book says...I don't really know...im a rifle guy...lol

 

[Chinook3]

Rumor has it, the old model 45 came out in 1970, with only 500 made that year, note, also they where the only ones with black eagles in the grips. (last year) starting in 1971 went silver. less 45 om made (under 22000) then the 44 flat top.... 28515 made (1956 thru 1962)...just what the book says...I don't really know...im a rifle guy...lol

I have the parts and grips...Mr. DS

I would like to find the correct parts!!!!!

 

[Johnnu2]

I would like to find the correct parts!!!!!

You will be happy dealing with Mr. Deerstalker if you decide to grab a set of correct parts from him.... The set will be complete, the correct size and fair price. P.S. Regarding your cylinder (pin) release button; I've found two things of note with that part:
1) If the pin is tight/hard to remove, unscrew the little screw side just a tad until the release is easy (then, use a little lok-tite to keep it from loosening and falling out.
2) If the pin is popping out under recoil, I've found that it is because someone has already taken the screw and spring etc out; and then put it back in BACKWARDS. I'd use and unmolested example to help me remember which side of the screw goes on which side of the gun...
J.

 

[contender]

The OM .45's are listed as 1971 starting with serial number 45-00001. The book; "RENE Guide."
A factory letter would be required to change that.

Chinook3, getting the internal parts would be a good thing. mr. deerstalker has said he has a set,, and he's good to deal with. Scott's a longtime member here and many have had great dealings with him.
You also need to look for a correct set of grips to fix it "right." Those are definitely the wrong ones on that gun.
Pull the grips,, look at the grip frame for markings.
It SHOULD have; "XR3" as the grip frame marking. Look for a set of wood grips for the XR3,, with the black recessed eagle,, and blue/black hardware. An extra tip; Get a 1/2' long, small diameter plastic spacer that will fit over the grip screw shaft. an easy item to find in hardware stores. I usually grind about .005 thousand off to make the spacer a little shorter to where it'll be a much better fit. I install the spacer in-between the grips,, over the screw to PREVENT overtightening of the grip screw,, which has and will bust out the wood from the inside.
Do a search around here & you'll find a few threads about such happenings.