I have a #1 with what appears to be a loose stock bolt (bolt that attaches buttstock to receiver) as I can feel very slight movement in this area. Is it just a simple matter of removing the pad and tightening the bolt? What type/size of head does the bolt have? Any special tools or tips needed for this fix? Thanks in advance!
#1 stock bolt (loose...., I think)
- Thread starter tss106
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
I had the same issue with my #3 awhile back. I don't remember for sure, but I believe I used a long screw driver after taking the butt plate off. Hope my memory is accurate....... :?
Dave
Dave
rugerjunkie
Buckeye
I don't remember if it uses a screwdriver or if a socket can be used for the stock bolt but I would get it tightened before shooting it again.
A tip for removing the pad...use some grease , vasoline , or whatever around the holes in the pad. Otherwise the screwdriver , if used dry , will wear small rings around the holes. Not a big deal , but they are unsightly looking. And make sure you use the right sized screwdriver so you don't bugger anything up!!
A tip for removing the pad...use some grease , vasoline , or whatever around the holes in the pad. Otherwise the screwdriver , if used dry , will wear small rings around the holes. Not a big deal , but they are unsightly looking. And make sure you use the right sized screwdriver so you don't bugger anything up!!
roofinspector
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 282
7/16" on the stock bolt head works ok
picketpin
Buckeye
It is a standard hex head 7/16th bolt that also has a slotted head. A large srew driver will work but a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10" exstension and a 7/16th socket is a much better choice.
Be sure and use some grease or other lubricant on the holes in the butt pad for the screws to come through so they don't pull the rubber out of shape. It is not necessary to take the butt pad off. Loosen one side and back the other side free and you should be able to swing the butt pad out of the way and gain access to the through bolt. (hole)
The 1/4 drive rachet is nearly ideal as it doeasn't allow you to get the bolt over tightened. That can crack/split the wood at the tang. Of course so can a loose bolt.
I now use a 1/4" torque wrench and tighten them to about 30 inch pounds.
It's sole purpose on my bench is the stock bolt on #1s and the forearm screw.
the best
Ross
Be sure and use some grease or other lubricant on the holes in the butt pad for the screws to come through so they don't pull the rubber out of shape. It is not necessary to take the butt pad off. Loosen one side and back the other side free and you should be able to swing the butt pad out of the way and gain access to the through bolt. (hole)
The 1/4 drive rachet is nearly ideal as it doeasn't allow you to get the bolt over tightened. That can crack/split the wood at the tang. Of course so can a loose bolt.
I now use a 1/4" torque wrench and tighten them to about 30 inch pounds.
It's sole purpose on my bench is the stock bolt on #1s and the forearm screw.
the best
Ross
Thanks guys....., that's what was loose. Tightened it up and she's good to go again! Here's another question - how hard is it to disassemble the #1 for a thorough look-over/cleaning? The guy in the video at the Ruger website sure makes it look easy enough. I've never taken one apart and for some reason I'm in the mood to give it a try......, any tips, advice, or cautions there? Thanks again!
Similar threads
