Please build a 308 Win load with these components.

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Just my opinion, what was asked and with what was to be used showed me he has not reached the 1st grade in the long range shooting class.
That's okay, many on here can help, but why if advice or comments were not what he wanted to hear.
I do think it's funny that some maybe including the poster think that you can buy rifle XYZ, shoot ABC ammo and be a sniper or long range shooter. Just hitting a target at 600 yds can be done. Doing it repeatedly takes work that only range time will solve. I was doing it at 19 years old with open sights, but with 5 years of hard practice before learning all what goes into hitting the 10 ring while laying on my belly with a rifle sling on most shots and having a great coach.
 

wwb

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krw said:
Just because you have the bullets doesnt mean your married to them. Sell some of them, buy some Sierra MatchKing in 175gr. Take 1 brand brass and weight sort them. Work up to 43.3gr Varget lded at 2.800 with .003" necktension.

You forgot to add: "seated .010" off the lands". :wink:

This guy just doesn't understand that what works well in one rifle probably doesn't perform in another. The only true advice has already been given..... "165 to 180 grain match bullets". Everything else is trial and error.
 

krw

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I didn't really forget. He is shooting a factory rifle. It will have a very generous freebore as all factory rifles do. And SAAMI spec for max oal is 2.800". He will have to stay really close to that max length to feed through magazine. Now I have a custom 308 that was chambered with PTG "Bisley" reamer. I ld 2.800" and my Jump is .010". It shoots mighty good!!
 

wwb

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Don't know if he's still around or not, but I for got to add in my earlier post - with that stubby 16" barrel, of all the load data available, choose one with a faster powder. A 22 or 24 inch barrel can take advantage of a larger charge of a slower powder, but not a 16 incher.
 
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You forgot to add: "seated .010" off the lands". 😉

This guy just doesn't understand that what works well in one rifle probably doesn't perform in another. The only true advice has already been given..... "165 to 180 grain match bullets". Everything else is trial and error.
I would also try 180 grain Game Kings or 165 grain Game Kings. Lower ballistic coefficient than the Match Kings, but still suitable options. I would go for the 4895 in a semiautomatic or Win 748 in a bolt action first also. I would also choose a longer barrel with a 10.5 twist.
I have shot 600 yards and further for score with Garand and M1A in 30 cal and AR in 5.56. All with iron sights. The Game Kings shoot quite well out of my bolt actions with 10.5 twist, 180 Game King, and Win 748. WLR primers are my choice.
 

Yankee_Papa

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I would also try 180 grain Game Kings or 165 grain Game Kings. Lower ballistic coefficient than the Match Kings, but still suitable options. I would go for the 4895 in a semiautomatic or Win 748 in a bolt action first also. I would also choose a longer barrel with a 10.5 twist.
I have shot 600 yards and further for score with Garand and M1A in 30 cal and AR in 5.56. All with iron sights. The Game Kings shoot quite well out of my bolt actions with 10.5 twist, 180 Game King, and Win 748. WLR primers are my choice.

OP here.

There was always the chance that someone with a Ruger 308 Laminate Compact rifle had a few loads that worked well. That's what I was hoping for.

There were a few guys who were nice and simply gave information without a judgemental attitude.

But there were a couple retarded internet experts assuming I didn't know what I am doing. They are everywhere on the internet. You never meet such people face to face. They'd lose teeth.

I already have a 600 yd load for my 18" DS Arms SA-58. It didn't work well with the 308 Compact. I did better with the SA-58 iron sights than I did with a 4x scope on the Compact.

Back in the early 70s in high school I was hitting woodchucks at 800 yards with a Winchester Model 70 in 264 Win Mag and handloads. I got the Model 70 at a yard sale when somebody died. Back then my dad and I had to make my brass from his 375 H&H Mag cases. We pulled his bullets, collected the powder, formed and trimmed the cases, and worked up the load from scratch using bullets from Swedish Mauser loads. I just used the primer that was already seated. We didn't have a loading manual. Old school.
 
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I probably should just stay out of this but can't resist. Short barrels will do a bit better with faster powders (4895) and lighter bullets but still come up short @ 600 yards.
 

JStacy

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Check some of the Lyman manuals for 308 data they have suggested "accuracy" loads for different bullet weights. I have found that the recommended loads are often a good place to start. I like H4895 in the 308 but I only shoot 150 and 165 grain bullets.
Some people are hesitant about recommending loads because of the liability factor. To error on the side of caution is never a bad approach when someone ask an opened question.
 
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'Yankee Papa', I'm not what you call 'an internet expert' so take this for what it's worth: No one should recommend a load that's not listed in one of the reloading data books. No two rifles are exactly the same in load preference so trying someone else's "pet load" is basically no different than picking a random choice from whatever manual you have in front of you. I shot a /308 target rifle for many years and found that a 'good' rifle isn't picky about the ammo it's fed.
Short barrels and slow powders result in ginormous fireballs at the muzzle--this is the wasted powder burning beyond the muzzle. This is bothersome when shooting paper and even more so when hunting (IMHO). Lighter(150-165) bullets will give flatter trajectory at shorter ranges(300 yards+/-) but heavier (168-175) bullets hold their meager velocities longer which flattens trajectory beyond 400 yards. I don't know of a load that will maintain supersonic velocity beyond 700-800 yards from a 16-18" barrel but I haven't been in the long range shooting game for a while.
 

JCK

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I'll bite
165gr bullet @2.750" (per Hornady)
Hornady brass! Trimmed, deburred
Or (BHA match brass; I suggest light turning of necks for concentricity, trimming, sorting for weight)
Varget @42.5gr (weighed, not measured))
CCI primers (hand seated!)
If your Rifle won't shoot <1.5moa, it's the Rifle, not the ammo.
I'd start with glass bedding the action and first 2.5" of barrel. Work the trigger to 3-3.5lbs. If you have a gunsmith handy, have muzzle recrowned.
The foregoing failing, I'd not put any more money into it.
Remove scope and accessories, Sell gun on gunbroker! By a Tikka Lite!
It took the forgoing work to get my Ruger M77MkIIKBZ/.22Hornet (brown laminate/SS Heavy barrel) to under 3moa.
I have a Remington Mod-7 in 7mm08 20" Laminate. It took same work to get it under 2moa (3-shots...). But, it's a delightful Rifle to hunt with. Very "lucky" Rifle! A friend liked it so much that he got a Ruger carbine in 7mm08 when his father died. He was so impressed by my Remington on a Wyoming elk hunt (where he lives), it replaced a Sauer .270 and a Winchester Mod70 in .300wm. He's taken several elk and numerous deer with it. I hooked him on Nosler 150 partitions.

My Remington M700 Tactical shoots the aforementioned load @1.25moa, best it'll do. (It's had the same "treatment") Substitute a Speer 168gr Match BTHP over 46.5 gr 4895 in a .30/06 case. From my 1943 Remington 03/A3 will shoot <1moa at 100yds in full military condition! Iron sights! Go figure!

Also, try the 180gr GameKing at 2.800" over 40.0gr of either Varget or RL15. My preference is RL15...
 
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