LuckenbachTexas said:
Will an old model hammer work in the new model?
I have two stainless low type hammers, one I swapped with the higher factory version in an Old Model Vaquero many years ago.
I have a new model vaquero that I'd like to do the same with but didn't know if they are interchangeable?
Just to clarify; New model/Old model does not apply to Vaqueros, hey were not introduced until after 1973 when all Ruger SAs were made with the transfer bar action which caused them to be designated new models. As said above there's original Vaqueros all made on the large frame and since ~ 2005 there's the NEW Vaquero with the cyl alignment system for easier loading and unloading, and are all made on the medoum frame except the newest one, .44 Mag which is made on the large frame.
Al medium frame and large frame lower, wide hammers will work in NEW Vaqueros. Just perform these checks to determine if some simple adjustment might be needed:
Safety Testing AFTER CHANGING HAMMERS IN NEW MODELS:
The first thing to check is the transfer bar clearance with hammer for reliable firing pin function. When swapping hammers between two guns, it often helps To swap transfer bars as well for proper ignition and to insure the safety feature still works correctly.
TO TEST HAMMER/TRANSFER BAR FOR MISS-FIRES:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you're good to go. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the top face of the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin and the frame. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform its safety function and will be pinched. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around its base to slow its fall and you may have miss-fires; another potential issue when making hammer changes.
IF TRIGGER DOESN'T RETURN, TRANSFER BAR IS PINCHED AND SAFETY IS NOT WORKING:
If the transfer bar is hanging up under the hammer face, since it's connected to the trigger, it prevents the trigger from returning. The transfer bar is slightly too thick. If both ends of the trigger return spring are connected (under the grips), or even if you have only one leg of the spring connected it should pull down the transfer bar if it's the correct thickness. When this happens, the transfer bar safety function will not work. If the gun were dropped, a live round in the chamber under the hammer will fire.
This is not uncommon however, and it's a very simple fix. File the second step of the hammer face, counting from the top, just a bit until the bar no longer hangs up. Don't take too much off or you'll have miss-fires. If that happens file a little more off the top step of the hammer.
IF YOU HAD TO MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round in the next chamber to cycle under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb to let the hammer fall. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.