Cylinder Latch Plunger/Hammer Strut Issues in Service Six

I've taken apart quite a few Six guns. I did not take the cylinder apart. I have the cylinder out of the gun and was cleaning it and the cylinder latch plunger, the little rod that has a spring with it and depresses fell out. I picked it up and it looks fine, but it has never fallen out of any other Six I have. Does it thread back in? I don't see how. I can put it back in and the spring still works with it. Is it simply held in place by the cylinder being put back into the gun?

Also, when I put the hammer strut pin back through the hole in the hammer it doesn't sit 100% flush. With gun back together everything works, but pulling the trigger with the grips off, the hammer strut wants to walk out. With the grips on the gun that is prevented but I don't think it's supposed to do that.

I just got this gun. It's a PD trade in and it was filthy. I took it apart and soaked it in automatic transmission fluid for 5 days. The light rust that was in it is gone and gun looks much better, but I'm wondering about the two issues.

The cylinder latch plunger and spring coming out isn't really a big deal. When you put everything back together it has pressure applied to it by the cylinder latch so it won't come out.

I think you mean the hammer pivot pin (that is what holds the hammer in place) is not flush with the frame when installed. That is very possible but I would put it on a flat surface to see if that part is bent at all. It was made for the right grip panel to hold it in place so if the grips are off and you cycle the hammer, yes, it can "walk" out. Again not a problem, I've seen them fit flush, below flush and above flush, it could just be from the tolerance where the cutter mills that oval in the frame.

Soaking a firearm in AT fluid will remove some of the gunk but to really do the best job you need to put all the pieces into an ultrasonic cleaner. When I get a Six series gun I disassemble it completely (and I mean every piece comes off/out) and all of them go into my ultrasonic cleaner for several bouts (of about 15-20 mins - dump the dirty cleaner and redo again - up to 3 or 4 times depending on the condition of the gun) and then I let everything dry and put it all back together again, lubing where it is supposed to be lubed. When I'm reassembling, I inspect each piece to see if it needs any work done to it or if it needs replaced.

Yes. I meant the hammer pivot pin. I got the gun last week and it was so dirty the pin was difficult to push out but it came out. I pushed from the other side and didn't pry from the plate side. It didn't look bent.

I'm sure the cylinder latch is holding the plunger in, but should it come out unassisted? Never happened on the three other Six guns I've owned.

As for the cylinder, everything seems to be working fine so I'll just leave it. I don't want to 100% take the gun down. The trigger especially. I'm not that mechanically inclined and it looks like more trouble than it's worth. After the soak in ATF I blasted the nooks and crannies with non chlorinated brake cleaner followed by compressed air. I wasn't in the mood to deal with the cylinder latch. Other than the slight loss of blue at the muzzle, the gun is in excellent shape. The ATF got rid of all the rust.

I collect (and show) the Six series revolvers and I've seen the pins and springs VERY tight and I have seen them loose enough to just fall out if you tilt the cylinder. I really wouldn't worry about it.

That said, you could also take apart one of your guns that the pin/spring doesn't come out easily and compare the spring lengths. It is possible that some one In the past put a spring in that was a bit too long and as such it forces the pin out far enough that it comes out easier than maybe it should.

I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos on detail disassembly of the whole gun, including the cylinder and none have ever showed taking that plunger out.

Don't know why, it can get gunked up pretty bad. Nothing to removing it, just pull it out and then pull the spring out. Many may not show it because they might just not think about it.

I take everything off during the initial cleaning, front sight, rear sight, front latch and spring, completely disassemble the cylinder, everything. Put it all back together with replacement or repaired parts where needed.

Here's 2 that came out of a prison system that I refurbished:
BEFORE







AFTER

Wow! Excellent job. It's obvious your skill far outclasses mine. It doesn't look too bad taking the cylinder apart, but the trigger just looks too complicated for my 10 left thumbs.

I have a sonic cleaner. Could I put the full trigger group and cylinder in there, followed by a thorough compressed air? Maybe a blast with brake cleaner after the bath before a light lube and reassemble? As for parts, they're getting hard to come by. I did pick up an entire trigger group on gunbroker a few months back. I checked Numrich and lots of those parts are out of stock.

You can put the whole thing in a sonic cleaner. Spray it down good with Simple Green or 409 (unless you have a commercial gun cleaner for a sonic cleaner) and let it clean. Then just use some compressed air to make sure all the liquid is gone from the nooks and crannies. The trigger group really is not that complicated and if you remove one piece at a time and fix in your mind how it came out, you can put it back together easily.

If you run into needing a part for your Six series, let me know, I have just about everything needed to repair one including a few barrels and both blued and stainless cylinders and complete cylinder assemblies. One of the hardest parts to get for a Six series revolver is the front sight. If someone with the cutting/machining tools got a sample of each and started making them, they would probably do very well in that area.

I normally use my sonic cleaner for cleaning brass cases but I know the Hornady One Shot Case cleaner is not right for that. I have plenty of Simple Green. How much Simple a green to add to the water?

While I'm sure I could put the cylinder back together if I need to, I'd rather avoid taking it apart if everything is working the way it should. So again, a sonic bath with them both fully assembled, followed by compressed air into the nooks and crannies. I even have a case dryer that uses hot air to dry wet cases if need be.
Thanks for your help. It's a 33 year old cop gun. I'm sure it can use a good cleansing. It looks much better already. Thanks again

I would use maybe 1/4 cup to 2 quarts of water, but also spray the trigger group first to get it starting to work on the gunk.

Sonic bath with both assembled should be fine, just make sure they are completely dry and lubed when you reassemble. I take the cylinder apart (really not hard to do or to put back together, just remember the ejector rod is left handed threads) because the section of the crane where the cylinder rotates is hollow (as is where the ejector rod goes through the cylinder) and a lot of stuff can get in there that might not all come out when you clean it.

As an after thought, if you're really into the Six series guns, find and buy a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausens "The Ruger Double Action Revolvers - A Shop Manual Vol. 1 (there is no volume 2) I believe it can be found on Amazon and other book places. It will tell you everything you want to know.