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 Post subject: Single Six cocking issue
PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 10:56 am 
Bearcat

Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:34 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Virgina
I recently picked up a nice, barely used New Model Single Six .32 Magnum that sometimes -- not always -- refuses to cock. When it does cock properly it's smooth as silk and locks up tight.

But about half the time the hammer comes back to about what would be the half-cock position in a three screw but refuses to go al the way. The locking bolt does not come up before the hammer stops.

I'm OK working on three-screw Old Models (which I much prefer) but I'm leery about going inside the New Models because the innards seem much more complicated.

Any and all suggestions appreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 1:47 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:28 pm
Posts: 741
Location: New Hampshire,"live free or die"
I had an issue similar to that with a 44 Mag new model. Check the base pin! There's a small plunger that sticks out on a new model base pin that pushes on the transfer bar. If the base pin is not all the way in or that small plunger is not working properly it can cause the issue you're having! Yep about halfway with the hammer! After checking the base pin for now every time it does it push in on the base pin at the very least after inspecting that plunger! See if that don't fix things!! Either the base pin itself can be addressed or possibly a heavy bass pin catch spring! Let us know! George


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 2:00 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:28 pm
Posts: 741
Location: New Hampshire,"live free or die"
My other thought, I also had an issue with another Ruger again new model we're the same issue would occur and there was no issues with the base pin or transfer bar. The issue was the loading gate was away from the frame just a little bit so when the cylinder rotated when cooking the hammer a round would catch on the loading gate and stop the rest of the rotation on cylinder which would not let me cock the gun. This was a little tough finding! This sounds stupid. What I found was a rag or pieces of a rag caught between the frame and loading gate where it goes into the frame causing the loading gate to stick out just a little bit. And with some cartridges it was just enough to stop the functioning of the gun. But this did not happen when it was not loaded nor did it happen with all cartridges! George


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:24 pm 
Ruger Guru

Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 19209
Location: Ohio , U.S.A.
yessir with the New models it is always quite simple and easy to KNOW when you are cocking the revolver ( empty of course) point it to the ceiling, and if it cocks OK,,,point it to floor and if it does NOT cock, the transfer bar is catching on the firing pin and VOILA as noted above the center pin must be properly inserted AND make sure the "springy thingy" on the rear is working , the plunger goes in and out ( spring loaded) 8) :roll: :wink:

"....and so it goes..." RIP Wil Terry :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2021 4:41 pm 
Bearcat

Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:34 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Virgina
George,

I think you solved my problem. Many thanks! I checked the base pin with the cylinder in and with it removed. It cocks about 98% of the time as long as I make sure the pin is all the way in, so maybe there is a problem with the transfer bar sticking or catching. The base pin has a slight amount of fore-and-aft movement with the pin locked by the spring-loaded catch in the frame, and if the pin is the least bit forward the gun will still not cock. I have an after-market Belt Mountain base pin in a .45 Bisley that locks tight with a tiny Allen screw, so maybe I should invest in another one for this revolver.

I now have enough SA Rugers to satisfy my shooting and collecting needs, but if I decide to invest in another one it will be an older three-screw, every time, not a New Model. I think by this time I know how to handle a six gun safely and, since I shoot on a range and not out of a holster, I can happily live with five in the cylinder and the hammer down on an empty chamber, just like Randy Scott and Red Ryder taught me way back when. OM three-screws just sound and feel right in the hand, IMO. And yes, I've had a lot of birthdays...

Valman


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 1:15 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 4676
Location: Davisburg, MI. USA
One more check. If a "poor man's trigger job" was done (trigger return spring unhooked) it can also allow the transfer bar to get caught.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2021 5:12 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:28 pm
Posts: 741
Location: New Hampshire,"live free or die"
Valman wrote:
George,

I think you solved my problem. Many thanks! I checked the base pin with the cylinder in and with it removed. It cocks about 98% of the time as long as I make sure the pin is all the way in, so maybe there is a problem with the transfer bar sticking or catching. The base pin has a slight amount of fore-and-aft movement with the pin locked by the spring-loaded catch in the frame, and if the pin is the least bit forward the gun will still not cock. I have an after-market Belt Mountain base pin in a .45 Bisley that locks tight with a tiny Allen screw, so maybe I should invest in another one for this revolver.

I now have enough SA Rugers to satisfy my shooting and collecting needs, but if I decide to invest in another one it will be an older three-screw, every time, not a New Model. I think by this time I know how to handle a six gun safely and, since I shoot on a range and not out of a holster, I can happily live with five in the cylinder and the hammer down on an empty chamber, just like Randy Scott and Red Ryder taught me way back when. OM three-screws just sound and feel right in the hand, IMO. And yes, I've had a lot of birthdays...

Valman


That's great! Good to hear! Safe shooting! George


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