Recent content by dfletcher

^ Got it, thank you -

I appreciate the responses. I see the transfer bar parts run about $25.00. If I buy one with a broken part seems I could send it in for free and then "oh BTW - how about a reblue ....?" I might at least get free shipping both ways. ;)

Thought about that - it's my "back up to back up" plan. Hopefully the transfer bar innards cost less than the originals. Picked up a Single Six that had been converted and the "retro" parts cost me about $75.00.

Re locally - I'm in northern CA and good gunsmiths are few and far between. None within decent driving distance. I know my gun stores pretty well and am certain they would direct me to go factory. I bought it in a LGS in southern OR and their suggestion was to go factory. $130.00 plus...

I just bought a 1969 made Ruger Blackhawk in 357 Magnum - all original inside, no transfer bar "upgrade". While I'm OK with honest wear this gun has what I would call "damage wear" - round splotches of bare metal or discolored bluing on the barrel, receiver and cylinder. Alloy grip looks fine...

^ Correct re not factory. The bluing appears much better than factory so I would assume it's been reblued. If so, it's not a 1st Gen Colt or S&W Triple Lock value wise, not as though big $$$ lost. Looks like the way I'd have liked factory to do it in the 1st place.

The ones I've found on EBay were in good condition, safe to use. Ran about $65.00 to $80.00. Fairly high "ouch" factor on parts someone probably was ready to toss. But those 4 clicks as compared to the "new & improved" - worth it.

I recently picked up a 1960 made Single Six that had such a good price on it I didn't even slow down enough to notice the action had been "upgraded". Bought an OM action off EBay, dropped in just right. Kind of irked me to pay $$$ for "returned, don't use" parts courtesy of Ruger - but "4...

I suppose it's nitpicking on a cosmetic, but the cylinder flutes look odd as hell to me. They curve inward as they go to the cylinder face. Was there something wrong with plain old straight cut?

I generally limit myself to 600 and 1500 graphite paper. Wrap an about 1" X 3" piece around a small flat file, peel off when the grit smooths and continue. Very difficult to screw up any angles but polishes smooth as can be.

I'll be contrarian on one point and that is overall quality, fit and finish. I have an older SP101 and a newer one. The older is OK, the newer I can well do without. Yes, it's built like a tank. I've driven a tank and a finely tuned piece of machinery it was not. The 101 hammer has alot of...

I have an AR in X39 and the only changes I made were a stronger hammer spring to set off the Russian steel cased stuff and a slightly longer firing pin. Magazines are important and the ASC work pretty well, although I limit myself to the 20 rounders. A company named D&H makes 30 rounders out...

I'm going to vote no on that happening because were it the case it should happen in DA mode also. Although DA is slightly shorter than SA. You should be able to check on the hammer dog hanging it up by just slightly pressing the trigger and controlling the hammer drop with your thumb. And...

It would seem the DA sear is catching on the SA pawl rather than scooting by it. Couple of questions - When the hammer stops halfway do you feel an impact on the trigger? When the hammer stops halfway how heavy is the trigger pull to make it drop completely? Pulling slightly and getting...

I also bought two of each of the hand and bolt springs. Don't see anything wrong with either, but that old saying "two is one, one is none" also applies to little gun parts that go flying, I've learned. ;)