357 mag revolver optimized for cast lead bullets??

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dannyd

Buckeye
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Aug 10, 2016
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1,984
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Florida
I never use anything but cast bullets. Lubed these today.

76A9403A-DD8C-4262-8DB9-8E8855A5F537.jpeg
 

vlavalle

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
261
Location
Chandler, AZ
Where do you find these guns? :) Every single one of my NM SA Rugers (and I have quite a few) have/had at least 4# to 6# trigger pulls with very discernible creep. I've had to do the poor man's trigger job on some and then professionally tuned on others for acceptable trigger action. I just acquired a MKIV Hunter a while back. Worst trigger yet. At least 6# to release the trigger. I have just ordered an accurizing kit for it to get it down to ~2# (so they say). My old Mark II was 'ok' from the factory which is about the only one that was acceptable.
I own an OM Ruger .357 6.5" Blackhawk (from 1965), it has a hair trigger. I did not make any mods to it - it came that way. I barely touch the trigger, and it goes off! I have never actuallly measured the ull, but I have to guess that it is less than 2 lbs.

Also, I do not get any serious leading when shooting soft lead or hardened lead bullets. When I clean the gun after shooting lead bullets, there is a slight amount of lead in the barrel and the cylinder, but not any to be concenred about, or that would require a cleaning, although I do clean each after shooting with it. This gun shoots as nice today as it did over 55 years ago! I also use to quick draw with it, so I have a western style holster and belt (loaded with 20-25 .357 Mag cartridges) it resides in all the time.
 

vlavalle

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
261
Location
Chandler, AZ
The only revolver you may find that will say it's designed for cast bullets would be a 19th century replica.

But most revolvers shot cast bullets well especially Rugers my GP and Blackhawks have over 150,000 cast bullets rounds on them. They all shoot about like this.

View attachment 14081
This looks like great shooting! I also own Ruger gp100 .357 MAG 6" revolver. At what distance were you shooting to get these great rsults?
 

Rclark

Hunter
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
3,533
Location
Butte, MT
Also, I do not get any serious leading when shooting soft lead or hardened lead bullets. When I clean the gun after shooting lead bullets, there is a slight amount of lead in the barrel and the cylinder, but not any to be concenred about, or that would require a cleaning, although I do clean each after shooting with it.
That is what I call 'no leading' :) . There is always a trace. I call that a 'seasoned' barrel :) . Cleaning ... Most times just a wet patch, a dry patch, and ready to go for the next session (or two).
 

dannyd

Buckeye
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Aug 10, 2016
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Location
Florida
This looks like great shooting! I also own Ruger gp100 .357 MAG 6" revolver. At what distance were you shooting to get these great rsults?
I shoot between 25 and 50 yards most of the time with these. the target posted is @ 15 yards I was using the chronograph the 158 run 796 ft/s with an SD of 18 ft/s.

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arcee

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
37
Final for the truly obsessed cast lead shooter. Trigger Kit from Wolff spring or Power Custom. I put one in my single seven and it is a dream.
Do the 11 degree crown. It is about transitioning an "over-sized into the lands and grooves with a cast lead boolit" sized to the lands and grooves without the gun "resizing" your boolit in the transition. There are a few other pieces to think about in the same vein.

Make sure to take a loaded dummy casing with your boolit of choice seated in the casing. Do NOT use the crimping die that comes in many of the factory hand gun loading die kits. Use a lee factory crimp die in the appropriate caliber. It does NOT resize the casing (and seated boolit) to saami specs during crimping. It is about keeping the proper diameter to fit you barrel lands and grooves, not saami specs.

Begin with your miked boolit after you push it through the barrel. Then expand your brass so the boolit can be loaded into the casing without deforming the cast lead or shaving it. Use your seater to seat the boolit (I use the lee universal expanding die. It is not caliber specific) Use the Lee factory Crimp die to do your final crimp as needed.

Once you have a correctly assembled round, head for the gun smith for the steps I outlined in post #8. If he has a good boolit to use as a proof what you want to shoot, he can more perfectly fit your revolver and it will perform much better.

Accuracy and performance with cast lead does all begin with the lead boolit to lands and groove fit. This will also keep your leading to a minimum.

Sorry for the long posts, but I shoot a LOT of cast lead in a LOT of calibers (.17 hornet - 45-70 and 454 Casuul). As long as I have powder and primers, the casings I need, and can find lead, I will always have hunting and plinking ammo.
 
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gunzo

Buckeye
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
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Location
Kentucky
dannyd, would it be too much trouble to list the weights/mold brand of the bullets you pictured in a row? I think I know a few, but a few others have my interest.
 

GypsmJim

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
373
Only when you 'know' you have problem and/or the revolver is not shooting well. Then you must chase down the 'why'. However, there is 'nothing' wrong with wanting an 'optimized' revolver because those optimizations will 'never' hurt accuracy or cause leading, but can only help. I've optimized my .45 Colts for that very reason. Some required it, some I could have left alone ... but I know all shoot the best they can now. One of my original Vaqueros 'needed' it. I opened up the throats and cut the forcing cone to 11 degrees, and then firelapped it as well. My group size was cut in half and changed the POI. Worth it. No different that tuning a revolver... Not needed, but boy it can help tighten the groups a bit. Makes the gun even 'feel' better all around..... Win Win. Now, my New Model .357 flattop did not need optimizing. The bullet passed the throat with just finger pressure, so throats are good. And groups on target showed it too. No leading, so no real barrel restrictions, all good. Still had it 'tuned' of course. Each gun is different though.
Most handguns shoot better with a particular load. That's why I personally "optimize" my ammo to suit the individual gun.

I have never owned a new gun that came from the factory defective. Used or abused guns are a different story.

If a gun is not shooting well, maybe there is something wrong with it. If that is the case, send it back to the factory.

If I have to ream out throats or make grinding noises on any part of it, then I simply don't want it.

Just my humble opinion. Y'all can grind away if you want.
 

Rclark

Hunter
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
3,533
Location
Butte, MT
If I have to ream out throats or make grinding noises on any part of it, then I simply don't want it.
That is a personal call of course :) . And yes, I'll grind away if I feel a 'need' to. I enjoy my revolvers much better afterwards. Even pistols. I just dropped in a VQ accurizing kit into my Ruger Mark IV which has made a world of difference in the action and will much more fun to shoot.

No one said the guns from the factory are defective... Just not as good as they can be as the factory doesn't put time into the 'details' (Rugers are not expensive hand custom guns remember)... But helping them shoot better means you don't have to search as hard for a load that shoots well in them either :) . All part of the game. Some of us enjoy making them sing, instead of just having them speak their piece :) .
 

Jon406

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 16, 2017
Messages
123
Location
NW Montana
I love the 158-gr SWC bullets I load, accuracy is great and the best with them.
These targets were shot at 7 yards.
Shot at 7.jpg
Queen-of-Diamonds at 7.jpg
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