Looking to sell a Ruger Mark II 10" Stainless 22.

[Patricia]

Hi folks. I hope I am in the right place. I have a Mark II Stainless 10" 22 (black handle with red insignia) that I bought new many years ago. I want to sell it and have someone that said they could get $375-$400 for it this weekend at a gun club that sells twice a year. I only shot it 3 times and it was cleaned after each use. I tried looking up prices without much luck. I hope someone can steer me in the right direction regarding this sale. Thank you! Pat It has 2 Magazines, a lock, and is in a case. 4 boxes of ammo. The only thing I can't find is the manual but I will print it off from the Ruger Site and do a fancy Spiral Bound copy.

 

[recumbent]

Should sell for $500 - $600 easily.

 

[tunnug]

The price you quote would be for a regular pistol, that 10" barrel plus low round count commands a premium, $600 + in my opinion

 

[Patricia]

The price you quote would be for a regular pistol, that 10" barrel plus low round count commands a premium, $600 + in my opinion

Thank you Tunnug. Yes, I am the only owner and as I said I went to the range 2 or 3 times. It's hardly been used. I am so glad I checked here because in the back of my mind I thought it was worth more. Now I need to figure out how to sell it on Gunbroker.. Thanks again.

 

[Dan in MI]

You can probably sell it here in the classifieds without all the GB fees.

The prices quoted above are more in the ballpark. Sadly for you they are down a little from the peak of 7-800 a couple years ago

 

[Patricia]

You can probably sell it here in the classifieds without all the GB fees.

The prices quoted above are more in the ballpark. Sadly for you they are down a little from the peak of 7-800 a couple years ago

Oh wow, I didn't realize they were going for that nor did I know you could sell guns here. I will investigate that now. I did find the original case.. Thanks Dan for your input!

 

[contender]

"someone that said they could get $375-$400 for it this weekend at a gun club that sells twice a year."

I hope that "someone" isn't a close friend. That's a lowball figure.

 

[NightSailor]

I'd jump on it for $375. For $400 I'd probably consider it. I prefer fluted barrels. Less weight, beautiful looks, and still strong and accurate. I dislike ugly slab sided versions. Bull barrels are the best option for the Mark II.

I'd love a 10" Barrel. I have a Mark II I bought new in stainless, way back when I was in the service stationed in California, with a 5.25" tapered barrel (to save weight) and I have a Mark IV Hunter with a 7.5" fluted barrel with laser engraving. It's a work of art. I have to admit I bought it more for looks than anything.

Most people tend to go for the tilt open Mark IV style. It is much easier to open up. The Mark III and Mark IV have the preferred magazines and mag release.

I used the Mark II for a back pack gun hiking the Sierras. It was fun but I often regretted not getting a longer bull barrel.

The older versions are a bit of a pain to break apart but if you do it often enough it goes easy enough. Wait too long and you may scratch your head. Or maybe I'm just getting more forgetful. "Now, how did I do that last time?" There is a trick to getting it back together and to come apart I used a screw driver, pocket knife, or empty brass to pry the lever on the back of the grip frame. It can be difficult and a nuisance. It seems I have to relearn it annually.

No matter. These are amazing guns. Everyone should have at least one. They helped cement Ruger's name in popularity. Stainless steel and all metal means longevity.

Highest demand is for the newer ones. Smart people go for these Mark II's and Mark III's mostly based on the lower cost, and tolerate the added difficult breaking it open to clean. I used to leave my Mark II assembled and just run a bore brush and patches through it for a quickly and easy clean.

The 10" barrel is what would attract most people, particularly those who don't have one in that length and/or want to have a couple to compare ballistics.

Check on gunbroker. I think you'll see the higher priced older versions sit with zero bids and the lower priced ones and the higher priced Mark IV's move. Mark III's move better than Mark II's. Mark I's are to be avoided. I forgot why. Different magazines?

As I recall the Mark III and Mark IV use the same magazines with a button like the 1911 while the Standard and Mark II have the mag release at the bottom. Which I never liked but can live with.

Good luck

 

[NightSailor]

What year was it made? You can look it up in Ruger's Database.

 

[Highstandardguy]

I would say $500 - $600 since you don't indicate that you have the original box. It's kind of a big deal on these since that original box is difficult to acquire.

 

[Johnnu2]

$600++
For $400..... just keep it !!!

IMHO,
J.

 

[contender]

Uhh Highstdguy, Patricia did find the original box. (See a later post.)

 

[Patricia]

Yes, Thanks...

 

[Patricia]

I'd jump on it for $375. For $400 I'd probably consider it. I prefer fluted barrels. Less weight, beautiful looks, and still strong and accurate. I dislike ugly slab sided versions. Bull barrels are the best option for the Mark II.

I'd love a 10" Barrel. I have a Mark II I bought new in stainless, way back when I was in the service stationed in California, with a 5.25" tapered barrel (to save weight) and I have a Mark IV Hunter with a 7.5" fluted barrel with laser engraving. It's a work of art. I have to admit I bought it more for looks than anything.

Most people tend to go for the tilt open Mark IV style. It is much easier to open up. The Mark III and Mark IV have the preferred magazines and mag release.

I used the Mark II for a back pack gun hiking the Sierras. It was fun but I often regretted not getting a longer bull barrel.

The older versions are a bit of a pain to break apart but if you do it often enough it goes easy enough. Wait too long and you may scratch your head. Or maybe I'm just getting more forgetful. "Now, how did I do that last time?" There is a trick to getting it back together and to come apart I used a screw driver, pocket knife, or empty brass to pry the lever on the back of the grip frame. It can be difficult and a nuisance. It seems I have to relearn it annually.

No matter. These are amazing guns. Everyone should have at least one. They helped cement Ruger's name in popularity. Stainless steel and all metal means longevity.

Highest demand is for the newer ones. Smart people go for these Mark II's and Mark III's mostly based on the lower cost, and tolerate the added difficult breaking it open to clean. I used to leave my Mark II assembled and just run a bore brush and patches through it for a quickly and easy clean.

The 10" barrel is what would attract most people, particularly those who don't have one in that length and/or want to have a couple to compare ballistics.

Check on gunbroker. I think you'll see the higher priced older versions sit with zero bids and the lower priced ones and the higher priced Mark IV's move. Mark III's move better than Mark II's. Mark I's are to be avoided. I forgot why. Different magazines?

As I recall the Mark III and Mark IV use the same magazines with a button like the 1911 while the Standard and Mark II have the mag release at the bottom. Which I never liked but can live with.

Good luck

Thanks for your reply. When Iooked up the Serial Number it said it was shipped in 2004.

 

[Hawk-in-Wi]

this is just my .02 cents worth but IF this is the only firearm you plan on selling I would try very hard to sell it local , because if you sell it out of state you will need a FFL to ship it , the reason being that UPS and Fedex don't want to ship guns any more for private party and with USPS only a FFL can ship a handgun thru them , plus you will have to play the FFL fees which can be any where from say $20 on the very low end to whatever they want to charge , so if you take off the FFL fees and the pain in the backside of shipping from where you value the gun at and just sell it local ... again just some thing to think about

 

[NightSailor]

Thanks for your reply. When Iooked up the Serial Number it said it was shipped in 2004.

Send me a PM. I tried to write you and it would not send.

 

[Patricia]

this is just my .02 cents worth but IF this is the only firearm you plan on selling I would try very hard to sell it local , because if you sell it out of state you will need a FFL to ship it , the reason being that UPS and Fedex don't want to ship guns any more for private party and with USPS only a FFL can ship a handgun thru them , plus you will have to play the FFL fees which can be any where from say $20 on the very low end to whatever they want to charge , so if you take off the FFL fees and the pain in the backside of shipping from where you value the gun at and just sell it local ... again just some thing to think about

Thank you Hawk-in-Wi, if I sell it locally they really want to lowball me. I don't mind paying the FFL fee I just have to find somebody. I have seen fees around $35 which I don't mind if can get more for it and it would be shipped to another FFL person. I think that is how it would work?

 

[Patricia]

Send me a PM. I tried to write you and it would not send.

I am new here and don't see how to do that..

 

[Hawk-in-Wi]

Thank you Hawk-in-Wi, if I sell it locally they really want to lowball me. I don't mind paying the FFL fee I just have to find somebody. I have seen fees around $35 which I don't mind if can get more for it and it would be shipped to another FFL person. I think that is how it would work?

Yes you are correct , FFL to FFL , and yes $35 would be a OK price , as for the PM or message I think you need one more post before you will be able to message a different member

 

[RSIno1]

this is just my .02 cents worth but IF this is the only firearm you plan on selling I would try very hard to sell it local , because if you sell it out of state you will need a FFL to ship it , the reason being that UPS and Fedex don't want to ship guns any more for private party and with USPS only a FFL can ship a handgun thru them , plus you will have to play the FFL fees which can be any where from say $20 on the very low end to whatever they want to charge , so if you take off the FFL fees and the pain in the backside of shipping from where you value the gun at and just sell it local ... again just some thing to think about

Use ShipMyGun they send you a label and you ship it off. You can check the list of FFLs on the ATF website to be sure you're shipping to an FFL. Include a copy of your drivers license so the FFL can properly log it into his book - plus the name and contact info of who you sold it to so the FFL can contact them to come pick up their gun. - Don't ship the ammo - it's a different set of rules. Easy to do but not worth it for a couple hundred rounds of 22LR.

They are part of Bud's and they become the shipping FFL so you are really just their agent dropping off for them at the shipper.

Gun Shipping - Fast, Legal, Affordable

www.shipmygun.com