Pawl spring and pawl

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bobvtmi

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
4
I tried my hand at gunsmithing, changing the trigger spring on my Ruger Single Ten and in the process of reassembly, bent the pawl spring. Got a new spring and pawl, but what is the secret of putting the pawl spring on the pawl. I don't want to bend the new spring. Thanks for the help. Sorry I put this in the wrong place to start.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
The way I do it....... I get every thing aligned and in place except for the pawl spring and plunger and grip frame screws. Then I slip the grip frame down,careful not to let it move rearward, just enough to slip the pawl spring and plunger into it's hole. If the grip frame moves rearward any you loose the trigger return springs position on the trigger and have to start over. Then the grip frame screws go in last.
This sounds harder than it is but I don't mangle any more pawl springs this way.
 

bobvtmi

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
4
Hunter thanks for your reply, but I did not explain myself well. You are ahead of me, but thanks for that tip also. I can't get the pawl spring attached to the pawl. The diameter of the pawl and the inside diameter of the spring seem to be the same and I can't get the spring over the end of the pawl. I think some heat is the trick but I don't want to take the tension out of the spring. Sorry I didn't explain that better.
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2003
Messages
1,482
Location
So. Ca.
Call Ruger and order the spring and plunger or go to www.brownells.com and order part # 780-012-104wb that is the spring and plunger about $4.00. I'd call Ruger first and order a couple. Shipping might be cheaper with Ruger. Order all small parts. springs, screws etc. Be careful and after a few times its easy to install. Good luck.
Eric
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
Slip a small drill bit inside the spring to prevent the spring from being mangled as you force it over the small end of the plunger. Keep the drill bottomed out against the plunger as you do this. I have done several this way. It is a very tight fit just the way it should be.

You see, I ruined a couple myself learning how to do it!
 

DGW1949

Hunter
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Messages
3,928
Location
Dixie
I'm still wondering about the " I can't get the pawl spring attached to the pawl" part of the (attempted) assembly process, meaning that I've never seen a Ruger SA which was configured in such a manner.
Nope, I'm perty-sure of it...the pawl's spring/plunger Ass'y floats inside of it's hole with the plunger facing (but not attached to) the pawl and the open-end of the spring facing the grip frame.

On the other hand, perhaps I'm just not understanding what the OP is saying?

DGW
 

bobvtmi

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
4
Thanks to all for your help. I just couldn't get the spring on the pawl. With my failing eye sight I just couldn't make it work. This morning I headed to William Gun Sight, and a real gunsmith took two seconds to twist the spring on the pawl. My thanks to Williams Gun Sight also. Gun is all back together, good as new, Thanks Hunter.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,057
Location
People's Republik of California
The pawl is in the gun and turns the cyl.
The pawl plunger and spring float in the hole.
The spring is attached to the plunger.
Your gunsmith assembled the spring to the plunger, not to the pawl.

By the way, the spring works just as good when it's mangled, the hole keeps it straight.

Also, you can put a small magnet over the spring to hold it in the hole and just let the grip frame push the magnet out of the way as the grip frame ear slips into position over the hole.
 

Johnnu2

Hunter
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
2,943
Location
NYS
Hondo, you come up with some genius fixes, but your magnet idea over the pawl spring is about the best and craftiest I've seen to date..... thanks, J.
 
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