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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:19 am 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
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Location: Louisville Kentucky
Ruger P-89 Disassembly Picture Manual
WARNING If You Don't Have the Propper Skills To Try Any Of This Then You Should Seek Out A Qualified Gunsmith
Do This Of Your Own Risk..
Safety Glasses Should Also Be used as a Few of The Parts are Under Spring Tension & Could Fly Away & Cause Injury To Your Eyes

I am taking the time to make this manual because I couldn't find any information On The P- Series Rugers when I started my "Project P-89"
Maybe in the Future this can help someone else out..
Enjoy!!
Gary


***Safety First** Check Breach For Live Ammo
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Check Magazine For Ammo, On the Ruger You Will Need The Magazine To Push The Ejector Back Up After Reassembly
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Push Down Ejector
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Pull Slide Back Slightly & Pull Out Slide Relese Rever
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Remove Slide
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Remove LH Grip Screw
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Remove RH Grip Screw, Push Slide Release Lever Back In So Frame Will Lay Flat
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Remove Grips by Reaching Inside The Magazine Well & Pushing Them Out
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Magazine Catch
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Remove Magazine Catch
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Remove Magazine Catch
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RH Magazine Catch Removed
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Remove LH Magazine Catch
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Remove Magazine Catch Spring by Lifting Up Back & Out Threw Magazine Well
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Mainspring Plunger Cap, With Hammer in The Not Cock Position Press the Cap onto your workbench hard while pressing out the pin then release SLOWLY
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Removed Mainspring Plunger, Mainspring, & Hammer Strut
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Ejector Assembly
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Pushing Out Ejector Pin, Capture the Spring when you remove the Punch it's under some preasure
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Ejector Assembly, Ejector Spring & Ejector Pin Removed
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Sear Blocking Lever
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Sear Pin
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Pushing Out Sear Pin From Frame
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Sear, Sear Spring & Pin Removed
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Blocking Lever
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Pushing Out Blocking Lever Pin From Frame
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Blocking Lever Pin Removed
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Hammer Pivot Pin
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Removing Hammer Pivot Pin & Lift Hammer Forward Down Then Up to Remove
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Hammer & Pivot Pin Removed
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Trigger & Trigger Bar
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Lifting Slide Stop Lever Retaining Spring
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Removing Slide Stop Lever
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Removing Trigger & Trigger Bar
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Driving Out Spring Retainer into frame, Use 1/16" Punch
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Spring Retainer Removed
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Trigger Return Spring Plunger Plug
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Removing Springs & Plug
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Springs Retainer & Trigger Return Spring Plunger Removed
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Tools Used To Strip Frame
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Parts Removed In Container As Not To Lose Anything
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Slide Assembly
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Removing Recoil Rod & Spring
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Remove Barrel
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Levering Out Extractor Toward Ejection Port While Levering Toward The Muzzle
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Remove Extractor
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Remove RH Side safety Lever, NOTE: Detent & Spring At The Bottom Cover With Finger While Removing Or It Might Fly Away
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RH Safety Removed, NOTE: Detent & Spring Under It
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Turn LH Safety Down 90 Degrees
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Capture Firing Pin & Return Spring While Removing Safety Lever
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Removing Safety & Firing Pin
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Slide Parts Removed
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Loosten Rear Sight Allen Set Screw, Turn Counter Clockwise 5/64" Allen Wrench or Hex Bit
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Allen Screw Removed
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Driving Out rear Sight To The Right, NOTE: Brass End On My Push Tool as Not To Mark Up Sight
As You Remove The Sight NOTE: Firing Pin Safety Spring & Plunger, These Can Easily Be Lost

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Slide Stripped Except For Front Sight Assembly, The Front Sight Removal Requires That You Drive Out Both 1/16" Roll Pins With A Roll Pin Punch & Then Either Use A Vise Or Vise Grips To Pull The Sight Out Or Tap Slightly With a Brass Punch
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When Reinstalling RH Safety You Must Depress The Dentent & Spring as You Push It Into Place
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When Installing The Extractor I Found Using a Wooden Dowel Threw the Barrel Hole In The Front Of The Slide The Easiest, Tap Lightly on the Dowel with a Small Hammer Till It Pops Back Into Place
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Checking Firing Pin Protudtion By Pushing on The Firing Pin From The Rear While Pushing The Firing Pin Safety Plunger, You Can Also Check The Firing Pin Safety This Way By Pushing The Firing Pin In as Far as It will go then depress the firing pin safety plunger & it should then allow the firing pin to move forward into the breach face..
Image


Last edited by berettapistols on Sun Oct 03, 2010 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 8:33 am 
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Hunter
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This is one of the best write ups I've seen.

Thanks so much!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:55 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
Thanks Guys!!
I am coating my P-89 frame with Ceramic Flat Aluminum now..
One more coat to go..

I also got a P-95 trigger today & haven't modified it YET..
Gonna also trim the extra metal off the front of my only magazine too..

Got 2 P18 LEO magazines + loader coming from another forum member..

Plus got a set of Hogue grips coming too!!

Do all the pictures show up for you all out there??
I may have to rehost a few of them or something??

Enjoy & please save or do anything with it you want..

If I had a PDF I will give it to steve @ steve's Pages..


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Hunter

Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 1:01 am
Posts: 3512
Location: GA
Good Job Beretta Pistols. Thanks for making this information available.

_________________
GeorgiaCarry.orgMember


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:25 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
Thanks!!
I got a PDF of this manual now..
If anyone wants a copy email me & I'll attach it to the reply..
Gary/berettapistols@yahoo.com


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 5:25 pm 
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Single-Sixer

Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 356
Location: Massachusetts
Absolutely a great How To DIY.

This is one of the reasons that you can be a member of thr RF and not have to have a post count in the thousands or more.

I am saving this for my P89DC.

Again,

Thanks for the great job!

Sincerely,

Matt


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 1:30 am 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:01 am
Posts: 1266
Location: North East Ohio
berettapistols,

First off......VERY COOL.
The step by step pics ROCKED!!!!!!


But PLEASE,
Let NEWBIE P-SERIES OWNERS KNOW...

THIS IS WAY FARTHER THAN FIELD STRIPPING!

NOT NECESSARY!!!!!!!!


That said...very cool post!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 11:38 am 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
I'd say that cleaning the firing pin channel & around the extractor is often over looked..
I cleaned my newer slide up before putting it onto the "Project P-89"
I used some Q-Tips & Hoppes #9 & wiped dry, then some Acetone & use no lube on the extractor or firing pin & channel..
Lube in these areas would cause rubbish to build up..
Better off dry..

I'd had hoped that this could help others out!!
The P-Series is an easy to work on firearm it does take some fiddling to get the sear spring & ejector spring in but with an extra pin on the other side or a similar sized drill bit it's fairly easy to do..

Gary


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 12:56 am 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
Tonight I stripped the P-89 down 4 more times to the hammer..
To do so requires you remove the..
1) Grip Screws & Grips
2) Ejector Assembly, It's Pin & Spring
3) Sear, Sear Spring & It's Pin
4) Blocking Lever & it's Pin
5) Mainspring Cap, Spring, Stirup, & Pin
6) Hammer Pin & Hammer

I worked the hammer hook & the sear hook over with a piece of 600 grit wet/dry wrapped around a small needle file without changing the angles & the results were great, The DA already felt fair so I left that alone..
The SA now feels like a SIG.. The stacking & creep are gone..
Next time I open it up I will polish the hammer & sear hooks with some Mother's Polish & the Dremel Tool to a mirror shine..


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 8:56 am 
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Buckeye

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:01 am
Posts: 1538
Location: Maine
berettapistols, Excellent tutorial! Us old gunsmiths appreciate the effort of others to help everyone on the forum in need. Again, congrats on a well done piece.........................Dick :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:27 am 
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Buckeye
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Location: Louisville Kentucky
Steve @ Steve's Pages has hosted the manual on his webpages & here's the link directly to the manual in PDF ready for downloading..
http://stevespages.com/pdf/ruger_p89_disassembly_manual.pdf


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:46 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
If you can't go directly to that PDF Go to Steve's Manuals page here..
http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm
Select - The Manual Ruger Forgot To Write - P89 Disassembly Picture Manual
Enjoy Fellas!!
The PDF is alot better as it doesn't have to load the same as the JPGs..
I only wish I had found this manual when I was starting my "Project P-89"
It now only needs a few new magazines, Those will be here soon, & a range test with several different ammos..


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:24 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
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Location: Louisville Kentucky
Here's another BUMP for a thread with some use for others..


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:00 am 
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Hunter
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Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2010 3:13 pm
Posts: 2837
Why does this say sticky for 30 days?

I think P89's will be around for a long time and a new to guns guy like myself that comes here will find it very interesting to say the least. Can't it be stickied forever like other things?

Just saying.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:22 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 1152
Location: Louisville Kentucky
I figure all these pictures take up alot of bandwidth & that's why they are only Sticky'd for 30 days..
Now being Steve @ Steve'sPages has the manual hosted with some search on the right term anyone should be able to find it without much trouble..

Also after the first sear/hammer fluff I did it again but went from 600 grit to 1200, 1500 & 3000 grit & then polished them both up with flitz & mothers with the dremel..
After the ridges were removed & they have become mated the trigger break is so much sweeter..
Now if I had a Wolff reduced power spring kit I'd be set up..

Ruger P Series Lovers Enjoy!!
Gary


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